April 2014
Hi,
I'm hoping that somebody here might be able to help me decipher something on my recent MOT certificate.... Read more
For those with access to convenient charging, the price and potential of this car, particularly for Central London drivers, is hard to ignore
www.honestjohn.co.uk/news/new-cars/2014-04/mitsibi.../... Read more
Ugly to my eyes.
Hi,
I purchased a car Audi A5 coupe 2009 for around £14k with 62k on the clock from an Independent Dealer. However the car seems to be using a lot more oil than the tolerated amount. It is using up to 2.55 litres per 1000kms. I reported the issue to the dealer and brought the car back and forth but everytime for some reason the repair has been delayed. At this stage i still have the car unfixed and the dealer keeps changing his mind about the repair. He is now refusing to get the car repaired. I had enough going through the dealer and started a claim under section 75 through my bank.... Read more
I have built and rebuilt several engines for the road and track over the years, always from salvaged engines. I have yet to find one where a simple re-ring would have worked successfully when the engine was worn. The top of the cylinder usually suffers from wear on the thrust side of the bore and in this area a new ring would never seal, the original would undoubably have sealed better. Because of this a rebore is required which obviously requires new oversized pistons. Since I have always done the disassembly/assembly myself the only costs have been the rebore and honing but good quality parts are not cheap.
Many manufacturers provide service/exchange short engines for these eventualities at a cost far lower than a garage rebuild. Several years ago I was rebuilding a Zetec 2 litre for the track, needed new pistons/rebore and while it was in bits it was sensible to replace the bearings and all the seals/gaskets. The cost of parts and machining was over £600 plus my time. Instead I simply gave our local Ford dealer the old short engine and £400 for a brand new (not reconditioned) replacement (with a garantee).
hi can anybody help, had to change battery now lost radio, serial no is m256407, many thanks Read more
hi my radio is M067821 can you pleas e help with a code following a clutch replacement, Many thanks.
what is the best tow car that will pull my sprite musketeer Td 2013 MTPLM 1264Kg1400kg
I pull with a Saab 9.3 but is getting old any helpful ideas
Read more
Skoda Octavia or Superb are excellent tow cars. If you have a large family the T4 Caravelle is worth a look.
Mark.
help, ive forgotten to update my v5c of change of address , it was last year i bought the car. what will happen, what can i do? the car is being dismantled due to being a rtotal loss,and i just found my v5c and seen the old address on it. my insurance company need thev5c returned but its got the old address on it. should i return the v5c to dvlc and then it will be updated, and then send back to the insurance company? only thing is they need it back soon and dvlc take time to return my v5c . also im buying another car this week, so i am in a muddle and want this done properly. will i get fined for not updating sooner? Read more
If anyone knows the answer I'd be very grateful to hear it.
My Omega starts and idles at 850rpm. Idle is rough until it warms up, with white smoke. It's a 2003 (96K miles), 2.2 DTi Eco-Tech (Y22DTH)
If I raise the rev's, the EML comes on and it switches into limp mode.
My "My Code Reader" shows one error code:
P1220 - (A) Critical System Malfunction 1 (refer to checking procedure: trouble code description) - present.
I've done the following:
Changed the fuel filter, filled the new one with 'Diesel Magic' and run the engine for 15 min's afterwards.
Cracked off the injector pipes and all are getting good pressure.
Checked the fuel system for leaks.
Cleaned the EGR valve and checked it with a vacuum pump.
Checked the vacuum system, found a hole in one plastic pipe, replaced the damaged section and it now sucks 24"/Hg at the solenoids. (Prior to this it was around 21-22"/Hg.)
Seen the (Garrett) turbo wastegate actuator opening as engine revs are raised and checked it with a vacuum pump.
Disconnected the air filter box, allowing open air to the MAF sensor.
Swapped the MAF sensor with a known good one (both are Bosch OEM).
Checked the intercooler hoses. They're sound but there is a coating of engine oil in them, so it may be in the intercooler too. (No excessive engine oil loss though.)
Disconnected the MAP sensor which made the engine run lumpier. The MAP sensor was replaced around 1500 miles ago with a Bosch OEM part, so I believe it to be good.
Replaced the crankshaft speed sensor with a new Bosch OEM part.
Fuel is Shell V-Power (roughly half a tank)
This is the relevant measuring block info at idle, before the EML comes on:
Desired Injection Start = 4.8 CA
Actual Injection Start = 1.1 CA
Desired Injection Quantity = 7.4 mg/strk
Injection Quantity = 5.7mg/strk
Pump Speed = 411 RPM
Engine Speed = 824RPM
Mass Air Flow Sensor = 512mg/strk
I don't have any higher reachable engine speed other than idle, because if I lift the rev's (even gradually) the system goes into limp mode.
Thanks for your time.
Regards
Steve Read more
A quick Google for that fault code gave me "Throttle Control System Malfunction", or relating to the fuel pump:
...
I'm seriously considering this as my next company car due to the BIK rates. I do about 25,000 miles pa and i don't suspect i will be plugging it in too often, so does anyone know what sort of mpg it will return given this type of driving? Read more
Hi @disqus_eDiCYxAJAg:disqus - Honest John has driven the car now. Read his test here: http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/ro...
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It's the paragraph number in the MoT regs;you can find the full regs. on the web!