December 2013
Hi Guys
My Dad purchased a policy with warranty direct and the wastegate valve has failed on the turbo, and this has been diagnosed on a diagnostic check. The car is at an authorised mercedes dealer in Warrington. Warranty direct sent one their 3rd party assesors to view the vehicle and he stated that he apporved the claim. I spoke to warranty direct and they stated that Mercedes-Benz have lied about this.... Read more
Hi All,
I hope someone can help me.
I bought this car couple of months back for 1500. The car has donee 112000 so far and seemed fine.
Lately car started stuttering and jerking while driving so I pulled on hard shoulder on m25 and the engine cut out.
The car did not start for 15 mins then started again but I thought I will wait for green flag road side assistance recovery just to check because it did not feel safe.
Apparently recovery said there is nothing they can do as the car has started and is working so I drove on but felt the power was less.
The car started stuttering and did cut out again so this time i called rac and they diagnosed it and said it can be fixed and the codes are p0149 and p1546
So eventually got recovered from Newcastle to london by rac. Took the car to garage on return and apparently the inlet turbo pipe was split and garage replaced it at a cost of 190.
Car did run fine for few miles but as soon as I hit 40 then it slowly started the stutter again and I pulled it on the side of road and turned the engine off and it refused to start for few minutes the started again so I drive back home and took it to garage.
Now the garage said that the new error code is p0148 and this is do with pump inside the fuel tank and will cost 300. Garage also said after this there could be other issues too.
This second diagnosis costed me 40 and now I am not sure if I should repair it or sell it or scrap it . It seems like repair is going to cost almost 50% of the price I paid for car.
So the question is did some one have same issue and did changing the pump inside the tank fixit or are there any other things I should consider changing before or should I just sell it or scrap it.
Please help.
Read more
Checked yesterday with other garage and no error codes .. Sold the car today albeit for less price coz I did tell the buyer about the issue and the recent inlet change....
I've got a P-Reg Ford Fiesta with Endura-E engine. Just before Christmas, on a run into London, it started running really rough. I was able to drive it home (about 100 mile), but it was sounding pretty rough the whole way.
I've just had a look at it to see if I can figure out what's wrong. Having taken the rocker cover off, I found that one of the rockers had a clearance of about 5mm! Clearly not good. I removed the rocker assembly, and checked the pushrods, but could see no damage. With the rocker assembly removed, all the valves seemed to be at the same height (i.e. one isn't stuck down / not seating properly).... Read more
3rd tappet along from the timing belt end was completely knackered.
If its got a timing belt its not an Endura E, they have a chain. But the tappet in the photo does look like an Endura one....
One of my relatives has test driven a new Ford C-Max Grand fitted with the 'new' 1.0L Ecoboost engine thing. I don't know much about them, but are they really up to the job of lugging a 7 seater around? I can't say that I have heard any bad reports about them but are they built to last? Any thoughts or experiences? Read more
A local courier firm had a couple of cars to test they have done over 200km now with absolutely no problems so they say.
I have two Rover 75's and have had a big problem to open the bonnet on both cars. I eventually manage to open the bonnet on one car on which only one of the two catches was holding by prising it open enough to unbolt the top part of the catch. On the other car I had to take off the drivers side front wheel and remove the inner wing lining. I could then with difficulty get my hand up to the cable junction box and pull the cable a bit more to release the bonnet. I believe the problem is due to the junction box and its housing and the pull lever inside the car being made from soft and stretchy plastic. I am about to remake all in metal--probably in brass. Any comments would be welcomed. Read more
Many thanks for your reply. I think that this could be a contributory cause on badly maintained cars or those used in bad weather conditions in UK but with my cars in sunny Cyprus corrosion is not an issue and the locks were well lubricated. I am a design engineer and would never have approved the weak construction using plastics. When the lever is pulled the whole thing feels stretchy and gets to the end of its travel before the bonnet is released. Lubrication is of course essential. I will remake mine using metal components and in due course will report results.
Hello, I was just wonderin whether the Yuasa ybx3000 or ybx3075 are any good and especially if you would recomend them for a focus Read more
Yeah exactly, the focus well all modern fords have that smart charge gizmo, that requires a silver calcium battery. I did go on their website and was recommend this battery: YBX3000. If you go on their website they say they use the lastest calcium technology.
I am looking to replace my 2005 taxi 1.9 cdti 120 bhp as I have had enough, replacement engine, headgasket, shockers every so often, electrics, ecu, this sensor that sensor. the list goes on..
not as reliable as my old vectra b 2.0 dti. ... Read more
Toyota avensis 2006 belt driven engine won.
picked one up with 80,000 FSH.
I'd like to tap into the collective wisdom of this forum for help with a somewhat disconcerting experience I had whilst test driving a Suzuki S-Cross.
I first test drove the car (petrol, manual, 2WD) a few weeks ago at a dealership near my place of work, and then again more recently another specimen of the same engine and trim at a different dealership near where I live. The ride felt surprisingly different the second time. On the first test drive the car was somewhat bumpy at lower speeds but settled quickly once 30mph was reached, and at motorway speeds the ride quality was pretty good being both smooth and comfortable. On the second occasion, driving on a different route, the ride was rough, and it did not seem to improve at higher speeds (as it had done previously) leaving me painfully aware of all the imperfections on the tarmac.
Admittedly, it was windy the second time and the road surface was a bit wet (though it wasn't raining when I test drove the car), but the ride was rough even at low speeds in densely built up areas, so I doubt it was the wind rocking the car.
Needless to say, I'm rather disappointed by the variability in ride quality between the two cars, and I'm at a loss how to explain it. Looking back at reviews of the car to be found on the internet, I notice that there are some discrepancies in reviewers' accounts of the car's ride quality. For example, one reviewer reports: 'The S-Cross’s firm suspension means you feel patched-up, potholed surfaces in town rather too much. Things improve at higher speeds, though, and the heavier, four-wheel-drive versions ride slightly better than the front-wheel-drive ones'. Another reviewer, by contrast, commenting on the car’s chassis dynamics, suspension and damping, concludes that 'the good chaps at Suzuki have done an exceptional job on the S-Cross as it behaves very well on the road, with very little float and yaw, no matter how "enthusiastically" it’s driven'. HonestJohn's review, on the other hand, stresses that 'suspension can be a little bouncy', particularly on the lighter petrol engine, while David Ross in his Road Test notes: 'The ride is a touch on the firm side, particularly the rear suspension set-up which can be noisy over poor roads, but the majority of the time the S-Cross is comfortable and smooth.'
I appreciate that the same car may behave differently depending on engine choice but is it possible for individual cars of the same engine and trim to vary so widely, and if so, how do I know what I'm going to get if I place an order? Read more
It may depend on the weight class - the Hilux is under 3500kg like all cars so may still be included.
Hi, having now given up on any dealer finding me a 2 year old petrol on demand 4x4 i've decided to look at older estates and have narrowed it down to an A4 estate, V70 or 3 series estate.
I'm looking at 5-6 yr old cars with up to 65,000 miles and full service history. Almost ceratinly main dealer with a warranty. ... Read more
You are probably right and i only do about 4-6k miles pa. and the problem seems to be tryes around 10,000 miles.
Recently had my car serviced and the garage left the sump plug loose. On the way home the plug came out and the car drained oil. I got a warning light just before arriving home but im not certain how long I drove without oil.
I called the AA and the guy confirmed what had happened and took some photos for me.... Read more
Have an independant garage carry out a compression test and compare the results to specification. If one or more pots are well down this would suggest oil starvation resulted in bore and/or ring wear.
Pointless excercise. Bores are only fed by splash and it would take many hundreds of miles for noticable wear to take place....
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In my opinion Warranty Direct are looking for a reason not pay out. If the fault is present and the Mercedes main dealer has declared that the turbo requires replacing, what do Warranty Direct have to gain other than finding a reason not to pay by insisting that more hoops need to be jumped through.
After market warranties are a waste of money as far as I am concerned, they exist to make money by taking it out of your pocket - not by paying it back out on claims.