December 2013
What are the main differences for the TSI 1.2 (85) S versions?
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Horror! The remote key battery had gone flat. At 74, I don't have a lot of strength in hands, so a friend took out the battery and said I could buy another. Halfords told me yesterday that once battery is takenout, the new battery has to be rinserted within 10 minutes,. If not, then the car data is wiped off the key fob, and will not work. On investigation this could cost between £150 - £200 via the Concessionary Agent. I see that some locksmiths will do it for £85 + VAT. I also see via internet that you can re-programme key yourself - but how to do it?? Would be grateful for advice/solutions. Read more
Replied on your other thread.
Try re-syncing first, as described in your driver's handbook. Available online here:...
C220 CDI W203 No throttle Revs stutter
I have a 2006 CDI OM64Engine. I recently had the Turbo changed, but the car was running rough and no throttle past 2000 stuttering and choking, All oil was and the Turbo was not operating. Ive had the Cats cleaned Turbo Intercooler pipes EGR and all vaccum pipes checked cleaned and checked for leaks. Also checked O rings Fuel feed pipes everything fine. There's no DPF on this car either.
The only Significant Code that came up stated
'No low Airflow to Charge' and there were secondary codes stating
low pressure from fuel pressure rail sensor
Low temp from charge sensor
Checked cleaned sensors and they're operating fine Also fuel pressure test confirmed no problem there.
However when we disconnected the MAP sensor from near or on top of the EGR valve the Car would rev fine from idle and you can hear the Turbo operating (also the Turbo Actuator was checked and is fine, not throwing up codes ie low boost etc) but when driving there was lack of power and the Turbo wasn't kicking in as it usually does.
Could it be the EGR Valve ? My mechanic did clean it and said spring valve was clogged but said the sensor plug could have burnt out? But no codes coming up stating EGR just 'Low Air Flow to charge' (charge is turbo all Intercooler pipes and vacuum pipes been checked) or could it be the MAP sensor ?
Changing parts and sensors unduly is going to be costly any ideas ? Is it worth changing the MAP sensor could that be faulty or is he sensor working fine because when plugging the make plug back in the car runs rough and refuses to rev thus could it be EGR ?
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It may/may not be the source of the issues but you need to rule it out.
If the problems persist after re-fitting the turbo, then you're going have to find an MB independent who has MB STAR diagnostic.
Anyone else had a problem with rust at base of rear window on the i20 At the moment it can be wiped away with some polish but will it get worse? Read more
rust on the tailgate in a known problem on these cars, seen it mentioned on other forums, i pay attention as i have one, never seen it on my own though
as mentioned its covered under warranty assuming you have had servicing done at dealers on time etc...
Hi, I've recently picked up a 02 Fiesta MK6. After driving for a while the temperature rises and the warning light comes on. I've been trying to diagnose the problem myself. So far this is what I know.
The coolant looked a little low, it was topped up but the next day dropped a little.... Read more
A faulty head gasket will not in itself cause overheating, what does though is blow the water out of the overflow/filler cap until there is not enough to circulate, look around the filler cap for signs of dry antifreeze.
If there is still water some water showing it probably isn't that, it will normally blow out some water if you fill it up but you should still be able to see it. If only the top hose is hot, either the radiator is cooling it very efficiently or the water is not circulating properly, this could be due to a faulty thermostat or pump, if the heater is failing as well its more likely the pump, although the heater can stop working if the head gasket is leaking into the cooling system.
My car suffers from the notchy gear change problem that seems common with Colts. Mitsubishi recommend 75/90 semi-synthetic oil for the box. However I note from an old post you recommend switching to something like Redline MTL or GM Synthetic to improve this. Is there likely to be any gearbox problems associated with switching from semi-synthetic to synthetic provided I stick to a 75/90 oil such as Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle? Read more
You MUSt check the detailed Spec recommnded. API GL-4 or GL-5.
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I noticed a damp smell in the car yesterday. I checked under all the floor mats and found the front passenger side carpet quite damp but luckily not waterlogged. I removed the pollen filter and found some leaves in the tray which may have impeded the exit of rain water. I have thoroughly cleaned the tray and checked the filter, which was recently replaced (I checked both sides of car and found virtually no leaves in the drivers side). Hopefully this will have cured the problem. I have checked the door and the carpet around same and think I can eliminate that as the culprit. I have owned the car for 2 years and not had this problem before. My question is this, have I missed anything?
On another note. The car is so quite that when it is raining I can hear the tinkling sound of water draining away, this is comes from the passenger side only and may be related to the windscreen wipers generally moving water to that side. Has anyone else noticed this, hopefully it is nothing abnormal.... Read more
Just in case anyone is watching. With the help of some other websites, I've been able to narrow it down to a possible perished seal between the bottom of the door card and the door.
Hey honest john
i recently got a exhaust emissions warning light - the light stays on but does flash at times. when it does flash i lose power in my car and it shudders (it kinda feels like you're in a higher gear than you should be)... Read more
so i got some quotes today for the diagnostic tests and they seem to be around £45
seems excessive just to read a code, but i know a friend who will do this for free...
Hi ,
My daughters 2007 318d saloon has developed severe condensation in both headlights .
I've removed the bulbs and seals on both sides ,dried out the interior of the lamps using a hair dryer ,but the problem returned soon after .
Has any other member come across the problem and resolved it .Is it possible to remove the headlamp glass and reseal it ?
If I was to drill a small hole in the rear of the headlamp assembly ,to allow air to circulate freely ,would that resolve the problem or make it worse .
There are no chips and no damage to the headlamps .
One small point , don't lose the small wishbone shaped spring clip that holds the bulb in place .BMW dealers charge £5 for that 3" long shaped piece of steel wire ! Read more
Seems to be standard lamp manufacture now to be clear plastic bonded on, why they are so expensive to replece i don't know, one thing is certain they don't last decades like real traditional headlights with glass lenses.
They are expensive because one can't buy a cheaper one anywhere else !
A few thoughts about windscreen washers:
Not many people realise that it is illegal to be driving a car without washer fluid in the reservoir. However, apart from staying legal, you really don't want yourself suddenly needing to be able to clear your screen and finding that your windscreen washer is empty.... Read more
MoT requirements only apply to cars over three years old and do not even apply to all of the UK.Certain areas are exempt-as are some cars.
Construction & Use Regulations apply to all vehicles, just like all legislation on roadworthiness....
Browse
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I have been in the back of a few rapid taxi's and found the leg room to be good, certainly a lot better than the latest ford focus.
How did ford get the focus interior so wrong?...