May 2010
Hi,
we have a Civic Type S GT 2.2 Diesal, less than 2 years old with 34,000 miles on the clock and full Honda Service history. Last service was September 2009 when there were no issues.... Read more
Today's gripe:
That tedious bit of the M1 seems to be finished but the 50 mph limits are still in place. This is deeply annoying particularly as the regular HGV boys come boring up it at 60 mph, bullying and tail-gating. Read more
What often happens on road jobs is that the safety fencing is taken down or is not finished at the end of a working shift.
In this wonderful age when someone has to be to blame for everything - the speed limit is left on because below 50mph no safety fence has to be provided.
In today's Sunday Telegraph, HJ warns an X-trail owner that if he buys a spare set of steel wheels for winter tyres, he'll need different wheelnuts than those for the standard alloys.
I have an X-Trail with standard alloys, but the spare is steel. No extra nuts were provided (I've had it from new) and I'm pretty sure the nuts fitted when I had a puncture and fitted the spare. So is the "spare" steel wheel different from the "base model" steel wheel? Or is it OK to use the "alloy" wheelnuts temporarily on a steel wheel.... Read more
It depends if the taper and the shape of the seat on the bolt is the same for the alloy and steel wheel.
...
500 miles after having my timing belt changed at 40K I had to call out the AA as had engine noise and vibration. Turns out that the engine had dropped on the timing belt side as the mounting bolts had loosened (one had sheared off). Could anyone confirm that it was necessary to remove these bolts for changing the belt as it seems that the garage are at fault. This only happened today but I would like to have info before I see the garage tomorrow. Read more
When this mounting is incorrectly assembled, considerable stress is placed on the other components and mountings. In particular, I think the remaining fixing holes in the block which relate to the affected mounting are liable to be damaged. I can only suggest a very thorough inspection by someone other than the garage who did the original work.
A good VW independent will have seen this before - and will know what other parts are damaged by this assembly error. I know that in extreme cases, the engine flops downwards and the belt and cover are also damaged....
I have a 2002 Jeep Cherokee 2.5 diesel with 83000 miles. Last October my garage replaced fuel injectors 1 and 2 and the copper seals. 2 weeks later the EGR pipe came loose. In January a bolt sheared and fuel injector 3 dropped onto the road (literally). In April injector 4 blew its rubber O-ring twice in 3 days. Finally yesterday whilst driving back from Bristol one of the rear injectors blew suddenly 20 miles from home (big bang, lots of smoke).
The car drives normally in between these episodes - no loss of power, timing issues, stalling or change in engine noise. There are no warning lights or signs of engine malfunction (normal running temp, fuel economy etc).... Read more
Sounds like a good first step would be NEW retaining bolts.
Do you mean the bolt holding the fuel injectors in place? Its had a new one of those and the bolt holding the EGR pipe in place has also been replaced recently.
The good points about the car are:-
1) Its got a complete service history, mostly all but one from Hyundai dealers.
2) Cam belt has been changed at 70,000 miles.
The bad points about the car:-
1) Much above average mileage for its age. 6 year old car, run 109,000 miles. Though I would be more comfortable buying a diesel car with higher than average mileage rather than very low mileage.
2) A couple of paint chips on the body and a small dent on the door. Since the elantra comes with only 6 years anti-perforation warranty, I am not sure if the body has been electro-galvanized.
Hence if the previous owner has not taken good care of the coach work, the car may be prone to rust (i think). Also this car was owned and used in Brighton (on the coast). So the sea air could acclerate corrosion, if the body is not well looked after.... Read more
See I actually think the reverse, as I favour buying Korean for the seond car, and I will happily buy at five years old when one comes along cheaply.
Because these cars aren't that respected in some quarters the used values can be quite volatile. They are starting to become more stable though, but you can still get things like Daewoo Lacettis for £1500 at 5 years old on occasion. At this price they are disposable cars, but in my experience no less likely to reach a good age than anything else if looked after....
I'm interested to know what others' approach is to deciding when to change the car. There seems to be several approaches to peoples car buying habits:
1. Get a brand new car every 1-3 years
2. Get a nearly new car every 3/5 years (regardless of use and condition of old one)
3. Get a 3-4 year old car every 3-4 years
4. Get a 3-4 year old car and run it into the ground
5. Buy a 6-10 year old car on a whim and a prayer
6. Bangernomics.
We generally fall into category no.3 but we've now had current car for over 5 years and there is a danger that we'll slip to cat 4. At the moment the 8yr old Focus 1.8 estate is running sweetly and continues to give good service. It's just passed the MOT with no remarks, had new brake discs last year, cambelt 2 years ago etc. and basically been well maintained. However, as the children approach teenage years more loadspace and legroom would be an advantage.... Read more
7. Get a nearly new classic car and run it into the ground [1980TR7, bought 1981]
8.Get 4+ yr old car and riitg [1989 Audi 100 bought 1993, traded in2003 for 1998 Audi A6 2.8 ]...
Volkswagen Golf 2.3 V5 170hbp 20v 2001 (y reg)
Description: 49,500 miles, 5 Door Hatchback, Reflex silver. 17 inch alloys. Petrol, Manual, front/side airbags. CLIMATE CONTROL Air conditioning. Front/rear head restraints, Power assisted steering. Sports seats with height adjustment, front armrest, adjustable steering column/wheel, front/rear electric windows. Remote central locking. Electric/heated door mirrors. Front/rear fog lights. Radio/ 6 CD autochanger with eight speakers. Trip computer. ABS & ASR. Cruise control. Remote alarm/immobiliser. Full VW service history file.
been to see this car, it has had one lady owner from new. it's genuine miles, been serviced every year by the VW dealership. It's had new break callipers, new front coil springs in its last MOT. had new ecu 5 years ago because they were faulty on these models. everything that the MOT has showing up has been done. it's been well looked after, the car is in excellent condition.... Read more
Where as an old V5 would be lucky to fetch £1000 at auction small engine Golfs and diesels fetch extremely good money.The previous mail sums its up, but a fool and his money are easily parted in the motor trade.One more point 30mpg maybe downhill with a tailwind.
the engine emits a clattering from the top followed by oil pressure light despite two services and an oil flush in the last 1000 miles. There has been evidence of oily deposits blocking the oil pick up pipe in the sump and despite oil changes and a flush this has reoccured after 0nly 300 miles this time. where could these deposits be coming from,the oil feeds to the turbo are clear,and how can i rectify this problem? Any thoughts please? Read more
I had this problem on a Vauxaul Cavilier 2.0 ltr.8 valve
The pick up pipe was jammed solid with paint that had flaked off from the inside of the sump pan (they are painted at manufacure to stop rust whilst being stored prior to fitting). I had to remove the sump,then the pick up pipe.Remove the gauze from the end and poke out then clean the pipe with petrol. It looked like Dog Muck and felt like Toffee !...
I have a Grandis 2.0 DiD - I loose power every so often and with this there is a jerking motion as if it is starving of Fuel. Someone mentioned it was a dirty fuel filter. Does anyone know if this is the case and if so where is the fuel filter located so that I can take a look to see if it is clean or not Read more
I spoke to the VW technician that serviced my Grandis. I also have an Alfa 1.9 and I cleaned the EGR to sort the problem. He said not to do the Grandis unless the fault light is showing, he also said that they do not get issues with the EGR unless they have done in excess of 100k miles.
John
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I think 'better' would be more appropriate than 'adequate'. The front brakes do 90% of the braking because of weight transfer. You don't want the rear wheels to lock because of the instability problem. This means rear brake discs don't get hot enough.
Try applying the handbrake (when moving) with 2 fingers of pressure-you don't have to pull very hard to lock the rear wheels. Now try to brake with the foot brakes but with the vacuum servo exhausted. Even with hydraulics you have to push the pedal very hard to get any retarding force....