May 2010
I have a ford focus 1.8 petrol, 56 reg. There is nothing wrong with the car but i would like to put some some redex in the tank with the hope of making it better. May be more response and better mpg.
Does HJ really recommends this product? Read more
The manual suggests that you have to remove the wing and front bumper to do this. Having looked at the unit, the bolt behind the grill looks as though it might be removable using a flexible drive on a socket and the bolt under the wheel arch with a ratchet ring spanner. Am I missing something here? Perhaps the unit is too big to remove through the opening even when the screws are undone. Any ideas? Read more
StreetKa without wheel removal (but Chock car in gear & put support under sides 1st!)
Front Right -Turn wheel outwards as in handbook & find small Phillips (+) grub screw, spray WD40 on that and 2 x lower clips & leave 20mins - Then need shortest screwdriver to undue grub screw & pull away from 2 lower clips. Now access rear light panel & pull metal clip up & over top & pull off rear panel....
Our woes started following an engine misfire (quite bad and driven for around 50 miles) fixed by replacement coil pack and leads. As soon as we got home after the repair, the EML came on again and has remained on constantly ever since. Error codes and diagnostics by Ford dealer indicate possible fault with sensor or wiring on bank 1 catalytic converter and a defective catalytic converter on bank 2 (below efficiency limits). Apart from the EML being on, the engine seems to be running normally.
Ford suggest that unspent fuel due to the misfire has wrecked the catalytic converter and possibly the upstream sensor(s). Cost to repair - another £1,500.... Read more
I had the same problem although i didn't drive as far with the misfire. I had intermittent problems with the engine light (catalist efficiency) , i reset is (with a handheld plug in reader) and it would stay off for a few weeks. I had the pre cat oxygen sensor replaced for £75 due to a separate fault code. MOT passed fine, so as others say its probably due to slight damage and sensitive computer.
There is a product called Cataclean (try ebay) which cleans out the system, may be worth a try. Also a good high speed motorway run with a premium fuel may help. I certainly wouldn't go with fords £1500 repair!
Had my new Panda since Monday. Done about 40 miles in it now and getting used to it.
i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/amazingtrade/1005...g... Read more
A nice clear summary. The fuel consumption on these beasts is very impressive.
Hi
We have a Renault Kangoo Authentic 1.5dCi ('03' reg) which has recently been experiencing an occasional/intermittent problem with the speedometer (drops to zero) and odometer (stops incrementing).
When this occurs, the car doesn't seem to run as well (a bit like you are in too high a gear for the road speed), though accelerating a bit seems to improve this.
Is this likely to be a fault with the speed sensor unit (which is presumably fitted to the gearbox) or something else (if so, please advise probable cause/s).
Incidentally, is the sensor linked to an engine management unit? (if it is, then is the 'zero' speed indicated by the odometer making the EMU reduce the fuel supply, for example, thus causing the running 'problem' described above)?
Can anyone help please?
Many thanks in advance Read more
I have the exact same car, and the exact same problem as you stated above. 100% to all that you mentioned, and mechanics have not been able to arrive at a sollution, how was yours fixed in the end
Hi, i hope some one can help. I have a 2005 2.8 crd lx voyager and the central locking has stopped working. When you use the key fob the indicators flash as normal but none of the locks work (they do not work from the switch inside the car either). I have checked the fuse that is labelled central in the fuse box under the bonnet (i assume this means central locking 30amp) and that is ok, i also have a 12 volt supply at the fuse terminal. Is there anything else i can check or is it a main dealer job to have diagnostic tool put on vehicle. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks ,Dave. Read more
Jim,
just to let you know your tip works a treat on my 2005 Chrysler Grand Voyager ...
Hello,
Can you give me feedback on this car as a used buy? I understand that the Mark 1 model does not have DMF. Is this correct? What are the other known issues with this car? Read more
Had a 1.4 TDI roomster on loan till 1.9TDI Octavia arrived. 1.4 is OK but needs revs for any performance so effects economy. 1.9 has loads more grunt, dosen't need to rev for performance and is more economical. I wouldn't bother with the 1.4.
I have a 2004 VW Touran 1.9 TDi. I am going to replace the rear discs and therefore need to remove the callipers. The callipers appear to be secured to the bracket by some form of splined socket headed bolt but I am not exactly sure what type of tool I need to remove this. Can anyone help?
That set doesn't go up big enough, I know as I also have that set.
Hi, just had my 1997 Nissan Micra 1L in for it's MOT. It passed but was issued with an advisory note to say the front nearside and offside constant velocity joint gaiters are deteriorated. As the MOT wasn't done at my usual garage I prefer to take it in for them to do the work. Is it something that needs urgent attention and is it an expensive job?
Thanks... Read more
And they last almost as long as it takes to fit them!
Thinking of new Ford Galaxy, main problem no spare tyre, just a tyre goo kit. Found Ultraseal which goes in tyre as a preventative and is permanent rather than usual goo which is a temp fix. Claims easy to wash out if needed. Looks just what I need, anyone got knowledge of this stuff. Looks a lot more advanced than the usual after burst sealer. Read more
Having used ultraseal in my motorcycles for some time i have found it to be a reliable repair that lasts and ideal seeing as bikes don't have a facility for a spare wheel. As for the issue of having to clear out the goo when replacing the tyre I have never had a tyre fitter complain about it. Providing you tell him it is in the tyre he can handle it carefully. If it isn't thrown about when removed the goo will stay within the tyre. As for COSHH issues lets be realistic. Its not flammable so no fire risk. Are you going to injest it, probably not unless you put it in your sandwiches. Get it in your eyes, its water based so can be rinshed out. Contact with the skin, should be wearing gloves and overalls anyway if you are a tyre fitter. If the tyre is shreaded then yes you need another tyre, but as a fix for usual punctures it is ideal especially if the car has no room for a spare as seems to be the developing trend with manufactures. I am going to use it in my Mazda 6 which has no room for a space saver . I could pay a grand for 4 run flats which aren't repairable and can still be shreaded like a standard tyre anyway. Ultraseal for me every time.
So why is my engine and EGR valve covered with carbon?...