May 2010
I've been out of the country for years so I'm not clued up on warranties offered on new UK supplied cars. I've gone back through this site and I want to ask a couple of questions.
Are the warranties split ? being 12 months from the manufacturer or dealer and then an extended warranty with different clauses ?... Read more
I have a ford focus 1.8 petrol, 56 reg. There is nothing wrong with the car but i would like to put some some redex in the tank with the hope of making it better. May be more response and better mpg.
Does HJ really recommends this product? Read more
IIn the manufacturers labs they use research grade fuel- it has no detergent in it at all. He said he never saw any deposits with uk fuel..
So why is my engine and EGR valve covered with carbon?...
The manual suggests that you have to remove the wing and front bumper to do this. Having looked at the unit, the bolt behind the grill looks as though it might be removable using a flexible drive on a socket and the bolt under the wheel arch with a ratchet ring spanner. Am I missing something here? Perhaps the unit is too big to remove through the opening even when the screws are undone. Any ideas? Read more
StreetKa without wheel removal (but Chock car in gear & put support under sides 1st!)
Front Right -Turn wheel outwards as in handbook & find small Phillips (+) grub screw, spray WD40 on that and 2 x lower clips & leave 20mins - Then need shortest screwdriver to undue grub screw & pull away from 2 lower clips. Now access rear light panel & pull metal clip up & over top & pull off rear panel....
Our woes started following an engine misfire (quite bad and driven for around 50 miles) fixed by replacement coil pack and leads. As soon as we got home after the repair, the EML came on again and has remained on constantly ever since. Error codes and diagnostics by Ford dealer indicate possible fault with sensor or wiring on bank 1 catalytic converter and a defective catalytic converter on bank 2 (below efficiency limits). Apart from the EML being on, the engine seems to be running normally.
Ford suggest that unspent fuel due to the misfire has wrecked the catalytic converter and possibly the upstream sensor(s). Cost to repair - another £1,500.... Read more
I had the same problem although i didn't drive as far with the misfire. I had intermittent problems with the engine light (catalist efficiency) , i reset is (with a handheld plug in reader) and it would stay off for a few weeks. I had the pre cat oxygen sensor replaced for £75 due to a separate fault code. MOT passed fine, so as others say its probably due to slight damage and sensitive computer.
There is a product called Cataclean (try ebay) which cleans out the system, may be worth a try. Also a good high speed motorway run with a premium fuel may help. I certainly wouldn't go with fords £1500 repair!
Had my new Panda since Monday. Done about 40 miles in it now and getting used to it.
i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/amazingtrade/1005...g... Read more
A nice clear summary. The fuel consumption on these beasts is very impressive.
Hi
We have a Renault Kangoo Authentic 1.5dCi ('03' reg) which has recently been experiencing an occasional/intermittent problem with the speedometer (drops to zero) and odometer (stops incrementing).
When this occurs, the car doesn't seem to run as well (a bit like you are in too high a gear for the road speed), though accelerating a bit seems to improve this.
Is this likely to be a fault with the speed sensor unit (which is presumably fitted to the gearbox) or something else (if so, please advise probable cause/s).
Incidentally, is the sensor linked to an engine management unit? (if it is, then is the 'zero' speed indicated by the odometer making the EMU reduce the fuel supply, for example, thus causing the running 'problem' described above)?
Can anyone help please?
Many thanks in advance Read more
I have the exact same car, and the exact same problem as you stated above. 100% to all that you mentioned, and mechanics have not been able to arrive at a sollution, how was yours fixed in the end
Hi, i hope some one can help. I have a 2005 2.8 crd lx voyager and the central locking has stopped working. When you use the key fob the indicators flash as normal but none of the locks work (they do not work from the switch inside the car either). I have checked the fuse that is labelled central in the fuse box under the bonnet (i assume this means central locking 30amp) and that is ok, i also have a 12 volt supply at the fuse terminal. Is there anything else i can check or is it a main dealer job to have diagnostic tool put on vehicle. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks ,Dave. Read more
Jim,
just to let you know your tip works a treat on my 2005 Chrysler Grand Voyager ...
Hello,
Can you give me feedback on this car as a used buy? I understand that the Mark 1 model does not have DMF. Is this correct? What are the other known issues with this car? Read more
Had a 1.4 TDI roomster on loan till 1.9TDI Octavia arrived. 1.4 is OK but needs revs for any performance so effects economy. 1.9 has loads more grunt, dosen't need to rev for performance and is more economical. I wouldn't bother with the 1.4.
I have a 2004 VW Touran 1.9 TDi. I am going to replace the rear discs and therefore need to remove the callipers. The callipers appear to be secured to the bracket by some form of splined socket headed bolt but I am not exactly sure what type of tool I need to remove this. Can anyone help?
That set doesn't go up big enough, I know as I also have that set.
I recently noticed that my third brake light at the top center of the rear screen is not working, although the left and right brake lights work perfectly. What could the problem be? Firstly is the center brake light powered by globe(s) that can be replaced or LEDs? The manual provides instruction for replacing all globes except the center brake light, so I suspect that it may be LEDs that are supposed to last the life of the car. Secondly, could there be two separate brake switches, one for the normal left and right brake lights and another for the center brake light? Where can I locate this to confirm? Thanks and appreciate your replies. Read more
Finally, after connecting both wires together, the brake light now works. Thanks to all who replied. Just to share my observations, the wires broke off about 2cm from the LED circuit board. I suspect that it happened when I got my windows tinted and the guy who applied the tint film to the rear probably broke the wires when removing the assembly. Not happy at all that he reassembled it back without fixing it or at least informing me about it.
I agree with Leif, it's likely the servicing pattern would mean only one of the three services is likely to be major and the other two little more than oil changes. Some warranties might include the first service for free, so this helps. However, out of warranty, and with more expensive makes, the independents can significantly undercut the main dealer.