May 2010
Hi
can anyone confirm whether the door mirror housing on the CC is the same as the hatch or indeed estate 206? I've been daft figures for a replacement, and told it's unique by one spares place.
I'm after the black plastic housing - i have the colour coded bit on the top and the glass is intact. Don't know about the electrics, but one thing at a time.
Thanks Read more
Hi,
I had a C5 2.0 HDi go for a 100,000 service (at a Citroen authorised garage), during which the timing belt was replaced. On the first significant journey, I noticed the vehicle performed oddly (while accelerating), and with not as much power as usual, but put this initially down to not having used it for a while and perhaps a bit of water in the fuel. (In hindsight, this is clearly crazy. Suffice to say that I now know much more about a HDi engine than I did a few months ago.) I also noticed the turbo didn't engage, and the cruise control didn't work. I continued my journey, but after 700 miles, the vehicle suffered another problem which lead me to call out the RAC.
I had booked the vehicle in back at the servicing garage to be looked at when I returned, but it didn't get that far.
It was taken to another Citroen garage who found the timing to be incorrect (about a tooth out; the timing pin wouldn't go in, though which way and on what gearwheel I don't know). The Lexia said there was a "synchronisation problem". Unfortunately they removed the belt in order to further investigate the cause, which they did not find. They did find a couple of failed rockers on cylinders 2 & 3. The other garage confirmed the water pump bearing had not failed, nor tensioner bearing.
Having transported the vehicle back to the Citroen garage that carried out the service, at their request, they are refusing to take any responsibility, and, as the belt is now removed, they refuse to believe it was in the wrong place anyway.
A consultant engineer suggested the most likely cause was the tensioner being set incorrectly, and the belt having jumped.
The servicing garage said they would have fixed it if they vehicle had been presented with the belt on, and the timing off. That indicates they would have warranted this work if it wasn't for the fact they don't believe the timing was off.
Given the belt has been removed, I think it's unlikely I'll get this resolved without cost to myself. Hence the following question:
The consultant engineer suggested, sometimes, if the vehicle timing is corrected, and the rockers are replaced, often the vehicle will be "fine". (Obviously I'll have that nagging doubt hanging over me for quite a while, but there's the chance it'll be okay.) Is that a reasonable course of action? Or is it far more likely that there'll be lots of other internal damage, which would require a full rebuild? The former work I've had quoted for around £ 550, which is potentially something I can contemplate. But the latter comes in at £ 1,800+, which I can not.
Couple of other things...
The lack of turbo ties in with a lack of power so that seems consistent.
But the Lexia saying a synchronisation problem indicates the vehicle itself knew there was a problem - wouldn't this have caused the STOP light to come on (which it did not)?
And wouldn't this have been checked by the servicing garage too?
The servicing garage also says they find it strange that cylinder 2 & 3 rockers failed, not 1 & 3 or 2 & 4. To me that's just chance that these rockers randomly failed first due to stress, which could happen in any order, but is there a good reason to think this strange?
Is it at all possible that the timing belt didn't jump due to the tensioner? Could it be that the servicing garage replaced it, and didn't time it up correctly in the first place? (I've seen the kits they use to replace belts, and they seem to have pins that would make an incorrect fitting impossible. But could they have missed something somehow?)
Thanks and appreciate your advice.
denty. Read more
I think this engine is the same as the Peugeot engine. Rocker breaking has been mentioned before. ie The timing is out (or goes out) pistons hit valves and rockers break (as the valves are vertical rather than inclined, much better than the valves bending). Seems like it wasn't done properly first time round. As you say you won't be going back! Hope you find a good alternative garage.
I recently had a leaking hose repaired by the AA after my coolant warning light came on. He also told me that my radiator was staying cold even after several minutes' revving the engine at 2000rpm. The temperature gauge reaches normal and stays there (I've never noticed it above normal in 2 years' ownership) so I don't think the sensor is an issue.
He advised that I get the thermostat replaced as it was not opening up to start the radiator. I've also been advised that as long as the engine isn't overheating there's no problem. I've no intention of fixing this myself, I'd just like to get the right parts and take to a garage sounding like I know what I'm talking about so I don't get ripped off (always a risk, being a girl!)... Read more
The PD diesel engine is so efficient that it does not produce enough heat to open the thermostat unless the engine is under load. Off load, the heater matrix provides sufficient cooling.
I would suggest that there is nothing at all wrong with this engine. Try feeling the return hose from the radiator after a spell of hard driving (uphill in a low gear is a good test) by which time it should be warm. It's unlikely ever to be hot....
I recently noticed that my third brake light at the top center of the rear screen is not working, although the left and right brake lights work perfectly. What could the problem be? Firstly is the center brake light powered by globe(s) that can be replaced or LEDs? The manual provides instruction for replacing all globes except the center brake light, so I suspect that it may be LEDs that are supposed to last the life of the car. Secondly, could there be two separate brake switches, one for the normal left and right brake lights and another for the center brake light? Where can I locate this to confirm? Thanks and appreciate your replies. Read more
Finally, after connecting both wires together, the brake light now works. Thanks to all who replied. Just to share my observations, the wires broke off about 2cm from the LED circuit board. I suspect that it happened when I got my windows tinted and the guy who applied the tint film to the rear probably broke the wires when removing the assembly. Not happy at all that he reassembled it back without fixing it or at least informing me about it.
OK, another thread says nothing is happening here, so I started a thread on Electric cars since there's a lot of buzz in the motoring press about them at the moment.
My view is that battery electric vehicles do have a bright future as a niche product - small urban electric cars and vans where range is not an important factor. ... Read more
So, if we had massively improved batteries which don't rely on rare minerals (which we don't) and an endless supply of neodymium electric motors (which we don't) we still have a bit of a problem - how do we charge them?
A household power supply will not deliver enough energy to charge a super-duper battery with enough charge to give the vehicle a decent range within a 12 hour charging cycle. 3kw, which is what you can draw from a 13Amp socket, converted to kilowatt hours worth of charge and then into good old fashioned horsepower is just over 1 horsepower (for an hour's) worth of energy per hour in old money, of course that energy has to make it to the wheels - motors aren't that efficient. Even if you used a 30 amp supply the "energy transferred" figures still don't look good. Are we going to upgrade every household to 440v three phase power supplies? Our electricity infrastructure is already on its knees as it is. If 30% of households started drawing a constant 3Kw let alone 5 or 10Kws, the national grid would trip and shut down!
Electric cars are not the solution.
Hi, my van has been slowly losing power at low revs until this weekend it totally lost power at a hill start. Limped up and over hill with foot flat at less than walking pace and black smoke pouring out exhaust. Not been that bad since, but very low on power and leaking diesel somewhere in engine bay when parked (stops after a while). Dripping/running off front crossmember. Coincidentally (?) speedo stopped working recently too (suspect faulty/dirty gearbox sensor?) In neutral, with foot flat it doesn't get past 3000ish and has a muted stuttering sound. Sounds like some kind of starvation? fuel/air? Can hear turbo whistle, so assume it's fine? Please help - need van for work and dealer here is useless! Thanks, mark Read more
Guys,
Given that the price per litre is within a few pence of each other, does it make even more sense to go diesel? Or is the risk of expensive faults still going to favour using petrol?... Read more
I agree with Steve, if I had to drive 25,000 miles a year on a motorway, then something like a Ford Focus TDCI would be ideal as it has similar performance to a 1.8 Zetec but does 20 mpg more. However, as a private motorist doing 9000 miles a year, such a car would be pointless as it would cost more to buy, the servicing is more expensive and in stop/start driving the fuel advantage wouldn't be that great.
Hi, not sure what the technical term is but basically the handle that you lift on the top of the passenger seat has failed. You lift the handle and It is some sort of metal wire that runs down to the bottom of the chair to spring it forward. There seems to be some fault in this mechanism. Any one any advice or experience on how to sort this out? Any help much appreciated Thanks Read more
Hi there, just checking if you fixed this ok? and if so how, as I have the same fault? Did you need to get a new wire, and if so where from? many thanks in advance.
...
I am looking to buy a used diesel car under £5K.
I am currently considering either the Corolla hatchback 2.0 D-4D or the
Nissan Almera 2.2 Dci.
The main consideration with the car would be reliability. Please could you
provide your opinions on which car could be more reliable? Also does
anyone know whether either of these cars have a Dual Mass Flywheel?
I know that the almera has a cam chain while the corolla has a cam belt.I don't mind having to change a cam belt if in all other respects the Corolla would be more reliable.
I have not been able to find much reviews about any major faults on the corolla, while there are a couple of reviews about blown turbos on the almera on HJ reviews.
According to reliability index, the Toyota Corolla (97-04) has a rate of failure of 2.38% while the Nissan Almera Tino (00-05) has a failure rate of 13.27 %. These figures would be across the petrol and diesel models.
Would anyone have any further thoughts on this... Read more
Well, I'm pretty sure that the Elantra/Cerato does not have a DMF. And I have not heard of inherent turbo, EGR or injector problems. They don't have DPF either.
That said, they are still CR diesels and as such, given that the Hyundai lump hasn't sold enough that have gone to really high mileages, I'd say that the 1.9PD is probably a safer bet. I'd still not be too worried about the Hyundai engine though.
Anyone help, would be appreciated. Been going on for 2 months now. Car has branded tyres, all good condition.
Bought a used Tino (mini MPV). Impossible to test drive it at speed (village, 20-30mph limit).... Read more
Yes Steve, that garage suggested I fit Michelin Energy. There was a Michelin Energy on there on the front in the first place. Those wheels were then rotated to the back. A fitter said the Michelin might be out of shape and causing s/wheel wobble (although on the back, so unlikely!) but nevertheless I agreed to have the Michelin replaced with a new Uniroyal on the rear, although I insisted on keeping the supposedly suspect Michelin, a tyre which I still have stored. The problem is now so minor that I don't want to risk anything by putting the Michelin back on the front. But, if the Uniroyal at the front gets a puncture or bulge I will have no hesitation in flinging it and putting the old Michelin back on. It's so nice to drive the motorways again without that shaking!
The very good local garage which did the final & successful mystery fix on the car seem to have swapped one from the back for one on the front, I think the NSR-NSF. They poured cold water on the idea that any flat spots on my wheels were the cause but that part swap contradicts that claim, because they say they put the 2 that they balanced best on the front which was the existing one (as fine balanced by the specialist) plus one from the NSR-NSF. Just in case they did do in fact do a tweak or repair but decided not to charge me for whatever reason, I bought them some cakes and booze, but they're still not letting on what (if any) work they did beyond the basic swap & balance! It beggars belief that 6 or 7 previous places with better machines were unable to get it right, rotating and balancing to/fro. It's a remarkable but true story. So, have to assume this will stay a mystery for some time to come, unless it just was a misshaped tyre or wheel which by fluke finally got corrected.
And 14 years later Kev Wades in.. LOL. Mekon you are both right and wrong depending on your DIY skills. I have fitted electrical foldable 206gti180 mirrors to my 206cc. The mirror and housing are the same, however the bases of the mirror that joins to the car is different due to the rake of windscreen. However the union (where the two halves join) is the same, so you can just swap it over (a bit of fiddling with taking the connector off - takes photos and notes beforehand). I added a switch for the fold mechanism as the loom already supported the function. Job done