January 2010
Hello
My Octavia with the 1.9 110bhp diesel engine in has developed the classic signs of MAF failure - low on power, juddery under acceleration. However there's the added bonus of the traction control light coming on and staying on when it happens. Are the two things linked in any way? My usual mechanic is looking at it today but it would be nice to get the accumulated knowledge of the backroom.
Thanks
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Please, please can someone tell me...
>
> * Can I splice the single electrics wiring (7 wires) for a trailer
> into the rear lights (as I always used to with past cars),
> or will I have to buy the VW dedicated wiring connection - a plug in
> connection - I think?
>
> * If I have to buy the VW part, where do I find the connection on the
> wiring loom on the car? It seems impossible to get at the wires behind
> the trim.
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what do you mean by VCDS
One quick google:-
VAG-COM Diagnostic System
Basically it's diagnostic equipment that is used to code the towbar to the canbus network system on your car.
Does BMW have a relibaility/durability/ problem. First it was failed turbos, then swirl flaps in the inlet manifold, what is the point of paying premium money and not getting premium quality, thier auto gear box's if not serviced properly will also fail if the the so called sealed for life auto box fluid is not changed. Not good in my opinion, Korean manufactureres provide 5 and know 7 year powertrain warranty's.
I think this whole sealed for life extended interval fluid change is nonsense.
I would be grateful for some comments and thoughts. Read more
thanks feller, I'll pass the message on - unfortunately I've just realised that my 530i petrol auto uses a different gearbox, so may be a different manufacturer? thanks again
***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 2 *****
It's all looking a bit heavy here to the North of Manchester - anyone heading over the hill to Leeds tomorrow might want to leave a bit earlier (and schools are back in the morning.)
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Discussion moved to a new thread just started.
Following comments of a number of people on this site I have foregone the scraping and spraying and taken to pouring a bucket of warm water over the screen with excellent results. A number of people have warned me however of the likelihood of cracking the screen, although nobody knows anybody to whom this has actually happened. Has anyone any experience of this ever happening? Read more
It's an old wives' tale as far as I'm concerned. For many years we have put warmish water on our screens and never had a broken one in over 50 years.
If you put very hot water on a cold screen then you're asking for trouble.
These days I use a 3KW fan heater in the car run from a 13amp extension lead. 10 to 15 mins has all the windows clear and the car interior nice and warm. Also, crucially, as the interior is warmer when one gets in the car one's breath doesn't cause the windows to steam up nearly as much. There was a thread on here about two weeks ago detailing using a fan heater. Observe the sensible precautions detailed in that thread. If you can be bothered then you can rig up a timer but I generally just plug it in when I want it.
Another useful thing that you can do that one doesn't see so much these days is leave a sheet of newspaper on the screen trapped under the wipers. Or an old blanket - which is probably better - and trap it in the front doors to secure it. When it gets a bit grubby I place it in the laundry basket and it miraculously appears washed and neatly folded in the airing cupboard the next day. :-)
Final thoughts: this winter the Ford Quickclear screen really has been brilliant - I would never buy a car without one now. If the ice is really thick then I still throw a bit of warm water on it but the elements stop it re-freezing. And the Swedes know a thing or two about car heaters - our Volvo heater is fantastic and is blowing hot air after less than a mile. Combined with nice heated leather seats it's a comfortable place to be on a cold morning. 25 MPG not so good but it's a big, heavy car and its reliability and build quality even at 160000 miles puts some other cars we've had to dismal shame.
Shamlessly nicking an idea from another thread, I wondered about cars that were bought, but which in hindsight should not have been.
I have only one I really regret - an F-reg Rover 3500 auto.
It had four fibre glass wings, a tappet rattle, contact breaker points that were not up to firing eight cylinders, a clunky auto box, tatty interior and a few faults I've probablyforgotten.
None of this could not have been fixed, but I lacked the time, money, and expertise to bring the car up to a decent standard.
Pity, because in good order they were quite something.
I drove a couple of good ones, including a lovely 3500S manual, but I made the mistake of buying a poor one.
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MGB Roadster 1979 model.
Worst motoring decision I ever made. spent a fortune on it in the 4 years I owned it.
Fiat Punto 52 plate 1.2L Active Sport
Hi there, I have a punto with a split front exhaust section that contains the catalytic converter.
Can I get away with welding a plate over this or do I need a replacement front section? I have heard that new replacements cost about £300, however, would a second hand one do?
Many Thanks in advance
Stuart Read more
the cat is just out of the picture
it sits in the downbit in front of your engine
mines a late 03 with the two lambda probes thats probably what you saw
It happened to me this morning. Freezing cold, loud bang, broken spring.
My question is; is there any need to replace both springs? They are 7 years old, low (43 000 miles), but have been over speed bumps often enough.
Any help or opinions much appreciated. Read more
Provided the other side is ok I dont think you need to replace both.
Sorry but you do. We have in the past replaced just the one side, and you can almost guarantee that 50% iof cases within a few months the customer will be back with the other side bust. I would rather just replace a shock on one side than a spring on one side. If its a front spring they can sometimse jump sideways and stab the tyre.
hi all i have a 2.5 turbo diesel that i am unable to start. i have checked on the forum and have seen the issues with regards to the heater panel. when checking mine it indeed does look like it has melted however when leavingt he panel off and trying to start the car it will not start. i am able to open the doors with my fob and when trying to start the car teh alram set light goes out. the car will then turn over and try to start however some times the fuel and heater guage etc will show up and then just go to as if not in use. the alarm set light will then come on and will flash. when the heater control panel is attached the alarm set light will not go out at all and after 3 or 4 failed attempts to start the car it will not turn oer at all.
I found all this information out after the rac come out and failed to start the car.
like i say i have tried removing the heater control panel but the car will not start. the 21 pin does look to be damaged any ideas Read more
i have the same problem were can i find this 21 pin plug please
Hi, I am a new poster to the forum.
I'm having trouble starting my Focus 1.8 TDDI, since changing the glowplugs last week.
In order to gain access to the plugs, I had to unscrew the metal injector pipes at the unions and move them slightly to the side. I fitted the plugs without too many problems, screwed everything back together only to find that the car cranks over fine, but will not start.
I have checked fuses and relays etc, bled the injector pipes at the unions and a small amount of fuel seemed to be oozing from them so I tightened them all back up, but the car still won't fire into life. If I spray easystart into the intake, the car starts and dies after a couple of seconds and won't 'catch' if I boot the gas pedal. There are no warning lights on the dash while I'm cranking, the glow plug light comes on and goes off as before and plugs have been tested with a continuity meter and checks out fine and no unburnt fuel traces are eminating from the tailpipe, so I think this must be some kind of fuelling issue. I've drained the battery numerous times trying to get the car to start.
Any help greatly appreciated! Read more
One other question, could any sensors around the car be causing the problem, could the ECU be an arch villain in all of this?..could it be something simple?
Is there anyone out there that can speak from experience and be POSITIVE, my replies apart from a couple are just from mental institutions.
Browse
Tiz the traction control unit that causes the problem. It does not show up under annalasis but this is the problem as it causes headaches with everything else. My 1.8 vrs has shown all sorts of problems but when asr button pressed prior to starting, problem solved, well nearly. I like the traction control I've just to find a permanent cure.