December 2008
My disco started blowing gases into the cooling system. Took it to my local garage and spent over £800 on skimming the heads and new gaskets. That didn't cure it.
Gases are still getting into the cooling system and after a few miles looses the coolant. The garage says it must be the block. So is it scrap or is there anything else to look for? It's used by the old lady for towing horses so must be reliable. Read more
I notice in one of the Sundays there is an article saying that car dealers in Ireland are now selling cars up to 20% off and that the AA is telling buyers to basically play hard-ball now as there are so few buyers. Here is a quote from the AA:
'Conor Faughnan of the AA said: ?What you have found corresponds with what people have been telling us. Dealers are desperate to sell stock because nothing is moving for them. The slowdown is astonishing. If you are in the market for a car, there is tremendous value and choice to be had.?
He advised buyers to be ?extremely aggressive in negotiating?. ?You should be unrealistic in how low you offer and try and get a substantial amount knocked off. If you don?t, go elsewhere.?
Faughnan?s tactics were used in the survey. Dealers were offered at least 20% less than the amount they were seeking and few refused to bargain from this starting point.'
Conor's name re-inserted - for some reason the swearfilter didn't like it ! Read more
Oh put a sock in it..
(Adds a touch of flavour as oatmeal is virtually a taste free zone)
Hello,
I have a 1996 (N reg) Ford Fiesta (Ghia) with 1242 engine.
It is over-revving when in moving in neutral. So even if I go down the hill in neutral, the rpm will begin to rise. Also, when changing the gears the revs will be very high.
Some time ago I thought it is all about the AFM, which I replaced and it solved some other problem -- the car was loosing power when on high rpm as well as over-revving when in neutral and NOT moving. It used to be 1000 rpm, now it stays on 800 and is not hunting as it used to do. It still looses some power when on high rpm in fifth gear, yet it happens very, very rarely and more subtly.
The idle valve was cleaned as well.
But as for over-revving -- I know this is a common problem, because I took a look at some other entries in this forum. However.. Since I am not a mechanic, what should be the first thing to start looking for?
Read more
Read the car by car breakdown on this website, select the Fiesta 1996 -1999 HJ mentions a few cures for this problem as it is extremely common. Something do with a speed sensor and or a faulty clutch switch I seem to remember which then confuses the hell out of the ECU.
Hope this is appropriate for this site, I'm a newbie.
Is the old Ford 5000 RDS a double DIN unit or not? Will a double DIN replacement like the Pioneer FH-P80BT fit directly or will I need to get a single DIN unit and a fascia adapter?
Many thanks in advance. Read more
Eh ?
Is it strictly necessary to remove battery terminal connectors before attaching a battery charger, or indeed not at all? In the old days with a dynamo it didn't matter. Nowadays with an alternator I'm not so sure. Recently I removed the leads and the radio worked fine with no attention afterwards. Read more
The wise decision would be to disconnect the negtive terminal before charging the battery, that way you can't do any real damage. But generally speaking a normal diy style battery charger will be fine without needing to disconnect the battery. Just make sure evrything is switched off, charge it up and don't turn the ignition back on until you have removed the charger when you have finished.
Hi,
Just a bird I'm afraid, so will do my best to describe. I am just looking for suggestons as to what the problem might be and implications with regards to possible cost to fix, because obviously, I wouldnt know where to start!
Have had car since August, and have never had issue starting. Has been very reliable on cold mornings too. Yet, when came to start it yesterday, was trying to turn over but couldnt manage it. Battery seems fine, ligts and such are working, and when attempting to start the battery light switches itself off. If I push accelerator whilst it is trying to turn over, it momentarily tries a little harder but soon becomes obvious we aren't getting anywhere.
All suggestions very welcome and gratefully received.
Thanks Read more
Don't forget you will need to dig out the radio code after disconnecting/renewing the battery. It should be recorded on a little card in the owners handbook pack.
Even in the 1970's we were urged to change water hoses regularly ; indeed a spare top and bottom hose was sometimes carried in the boot. The practice seem to disappear almost overnight, presumeably due to material improvements.
I hated having to change the 2inch long by about half inch dia hose betwwen the head and block on the BMC 'A' series engines, so was glad for the improvement.
In hindsight I wonder if I was "conned" into changing the hoses...ah the days of being young and accepting "the manufacturer's recommendations"! Read more
Did a lot more head gaskets in those days.
Engine compression - and oil - in the water probably didn't do the hoses any good and may well have shortened their life.
Rarely changed a hose that wasn't burst unless it felt weak.
I've seen hoses 'balloon' which is a bit of a clue all is not well.
Could anyone give me instructions about how to change a rear lamp? Or do I have to take this to a VW garage to get this done? Read more
If it's anything like a Passat then it's via the boot. But if it has a boot mounted CD changer on the left and it's that side then you have to work "blind" when changing the bulbs.
I've just returned from living in France where I've been running an Opel Omega 2.5 diesel for the last 8 years - it's been stunningly reliable - over 300k km with only oil and filters (lots of them).
I'm going to be doing something like 600 miles/week so will need something comfortable yet relatively economical. I will be doing my own servicing and would really prefer a camchain engine (or something where the belt is as easy and quick to change as my Transit!).
I intend to buy something that I will run for up to 10 years - so reliability/corrosion issues are of real interest to me.
My budget is open - but really don't want to spend too much more than £5k.
Any suggestions please?!
Thanks Read more
A Superb (Mk I) is a bargain second hand.
As a long termer, the 4 Cyl PD engines properly maintained have a proven track record (avoid the 2 litre Euro Cat IV versions) and the bodywork is fully galvanised.
It's not a car which invites driver involvement but as a motorway mile-eater (high geared with cruise) and for my special job as a tow car, it's hard to beat. The 5 speed manual 130 PS diesel is the best of the bunch and MY '05> have folding rear seats - pretty essential for most jobs.
Even before the present recession, mine was a bargain as a 2 year old - with present trading conditions, a new model out and rubbish credibility in its size class, it's a steal.
Other than a lazy seat belt return spring (fixed under warranty but showing signs of a repeat act) mine has had zero faults in the 2.5 years I've had it. The performance to economy ratio of the 130 PS AWX diesel is hard to match anywhere.
659.
Does anyone know if GSF open on Sundays? Might need to get some spare parts and need to know my purchasing options before I make a start. Read more
Their website gives map and opening times-doesn't look like open Sundays.
Browse
Heads were pressure tested. No LPG.
Is it worth machining and lining the bores of an engine this old?