November 2008
Hi guys looking for some help with this one,
i have fiat doblo 1.9 jtd and after the battery went flat and i changed it it wont start,
also the remote doesnt work now and also
only have blue key will this matter
any ideas please would be appreciated Read more
Hi,
Having had a few largish bills for my old Laguna 1 in succession,I decided i would get rid and invest in a toyota as the trade tell me they are 'bulletproof'.So i bought a 05 Corolla Automatic...seemed like a good idea....big mistake!
Although the Laguna is a much older design car,the level of comfort and refinement is way above that of the Corolla.Despite being a low mileage,fsh example i find the engine/gearbox very noisy at PARK or low revs,although the box is very smooth.Tyre noise from the front is,in my opinion,excessive.My wife has an old clio auto which is considerably quieter at 70mph!
I understand we are talking about different sectors of car here,down sizing hasn't worked for me!Good news is i didn,t sell the Laguna and bangernomics suddenly appears to be a good option.
Has anybody here managed to run a Laguna 1 to high mileage without massive expense?
Thanks...Phil. Read more
It has original Michelin Energies all round having only done 14,000mls.
The inlet manifold does'nt seem to rattle but if you blip the throttle the air intake is quite
loud.
When the car is in D or R or P and stationary,there is a noticeable ticking noise which goes when you move on.
All this is probably quite normal for this car but certainly not what i expected.
Thanks....Phil
Just had my car advertised for a couple of weeks in the Autotrader with no joy. Is it worthwhile trying again with a lower price or is it too close to Christmas to sell a car privately now? Read more
I seem to have bought the only rusty 626 advertised! Both doors on the drivers side are going and seems to have lots of surface rust underbody! But it runs fine. Question is do I PX it for another one with better body or just run it till it dies?
Its a V reg facelift GSI with 87K, got the cambelt done as part of buying process, which I done via autotrader ( sent my Uncle to look at it...)
Can anyone please give me a clue?
I have a 98 Grand Cherokee Loredo 2.5TD and the immobiliser is bypassed by pushing the clutch pedal down as far as possible, this then enables me to start the vehicle.
Now all of a sudden, pressing the clutch down as far as possible does not allow me to start it, the battery is fine and there is no key fob issue, I believe that its a factory fit immobiliser.
Regards
Intermotion
Read more
it only a start cut out. there is a plug next to the switch on the pedal you just bridge it to by pass it.
I have a 1.7 CDTI 49k FSH astravan recently purchased. Was serviced (oil and filter pre-purchase).
When the vehicle has stood for an hour or two and overnight i notice that the oil pressure light takes about 3 seconds to go out. Stop the engine and re-start straight away and it goes out immediately.
Is this a normal delay when cold?
Thank you.
Read more
perfectly normal for light to take awhile to go out on first start however it wont hurt to double check that the filter is correct, the housing should hold the oil in place untill the filter is released then it flows into the sump, that said you cant check that the oil is there!!!!!!
Can anyone confirm the sidewall reading for a Michelin Primacy HP tyre that has been reinforced/rated as Extra Load?
I have just bought two new Michelin's to replace the Goodyear's that were on it before. My car is a 7 seater and comes as standard with "reinforced" tyres.
I've had Michelin before with the Pilot tread and these said "Extra Load" on the sidewall. All I can see on these is "215/60/16 VR" and then "RP". Is RP for Reinforced Ply or is this wishful thinking?
Don't want to ask the garage because they will just tell me they are the right ones without being certain!
Thanks.
Read more
Confirmed by Michelin this morning. The 99 Load Index tyre is indeed the reinforced tyre and the 95 is not suitable for this car.
Oh dear ! Back to the garage again, and a main dealer too! tut tut.
The crash 2 days ago in N Ireland where four police died has had a fair bit of publicity.The bare facts are bad enough, but I caught the NI local news broadcast last night and it seems the actual circumstances are worse... the four policemen were conscious after the impact and were trying to get out of the vehicle but couldn't open the doors, and a dozen bystanders were trying to get in through the windows but couldn't break the glass.
The four succumbed to flames.
My question is: are Police vehicles fitted with particular deadlocks to stop the doors being opened from the inside? (by a suspect in the rear seat for example). And are the windows bullet-proof?
My own understanding of door locks is that they should all have a "fail-safe" arrangement whereby all locks are opened following a high-impact crash. Read more
So all four doors wouldn't open? Sounds a bit implausible to me.
And the PSNI carry guns, they'd be able to shoot out a window as a last resort.
There's no point in having bullet-proof glass in the car if the rest of the vehicle isn't.
I'm looking to change the timing belt on my F9Q engine Scenic, and I thought I would be a good boy (for a change!) and I bought the proper timing pins and flywheel locking tool. According to Haynes, there is a cover under the engine/box that you remove to gain access to the flywheel and (they say) you can lock it with a screwdriver in the starter ring using a bolt as a fulcrum. Well I have no such cover on mine, the gearbox and engine are one-piece castings in that area with no removeable bits at all. The only glimpse of the starter ring I can get is if I remove an engine brace then I can just about see it but not onough to get anything in (certainly not the service tool). I'm guessing the tool can only be used when the engine and box are split? I've resisted the inevitable temptation to use the crankshaft timing pin (misleadingly called a locking pin in some references) to lock it as this wouldn't take the torque required (it is oh so tempting though!).
Does anyone have any advice on how to lock it sufficiently to remove/replace the pulley nut? Read more
Excellent! What a bonus, I get to buy a nice shiny new air tool!
Thanks Screwloose, I'll give it a go.
Well everyone after debating what to buy www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=66...4
I brought a white E-reg Volvo 480 with 83k. £650 plus 12 months tax @£180
Driving it home was a bit scary at first being that I had to pick it up in North Greater London just before rush hour & had to stop at Borhamwood DVLA office to apply for a new logbook, but apart from that it drove brilliantly on the M25 & M40.
Obviously it isn't perfect, one of the pop up lights don't go down, the other one only pops up when it wants to LOL.
The passenger side lecky window don't work.
The boot lid doesn't hold by itself as my Dad found it when he had a browse around ...nearly an ouch!
The 1.7 engine goes like a bomb if you put your foot down (this a non-turbo we're talking bout here)
But overall I'm really impressed with it, I'm hoping this inspires other 20 somethings like myself to go for a retro car if the time is right.
Read more
Congratualtions, I hope you like yours as much as I did mine - a G-reg red 480ES (1.7 non-turbo). I bought that in about 1998 for £1500. It was teriffic fun and I'd love to get another as a weekend car.
Mine went up to 175k miles driving like new, and was written off after being driven in to by a dust cart. :-(
One problem I never got to the bottom of though. Sometimes, it just wouldn't turn over for no apparent reason. As if the battery was dead, but it wasn't. This happened once every couple of months. After a few hours, it would then suddenly spring to life. Even a Volvo dealer couldn't locate the fault, but said "we've had a few in that do this, never got to the bottom of it". I hope yours doesn't suffer similarly!
The other thing to be careful of is the electronic fuel gauge. In very bright sun mine got very difficult to see, and there is no audible low fuel warning. So I ran out once on the M25. Not funny. I always filled it up at half empty after that.
hi!
my 1.8 Focus has only recently developed this problem.
when i remove the key from the ignition, the backlight of the odometer comes on. it doesnt display anything but just stays lit.
ive been experimenting.. its very temperamental. one day it will stay off and be normal. other days as soon as i take the key out, it comes on.
sometimes there is a few seconds delay after taking the key out before it comes on or sometimes it will randomly flicker crazily as if its trying to get itself on... and then remains on! i have no idea what it can be, but i must say it is very annoying!
has anybody else experienced this problem and is there a way of solving this problem?
thanks a lot,
matt Read more
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found problem :::
at same time as fitting new battery i changed a door strap and moved the fuel cut off switch , it nedded resetting !!