August 2008
My Sapphire Black VX Zafira is suffering from the swirlies in the paint, along with some minor scratches that always look much worse than they are on a black car.
So before I go with the 'best wax\polish" thread suggestions, I need to get the swirls out. Any advice on what to go for and the best method to do it?
I used to have some Turtle Wax scratch remover, but I think that might be too abraisive to use on the entire car. Read more
On my partners 106 the power steering always needs a quick blip on the throttle to start it off which isnt a problem. However now its starting to stop working during journeys. It passed the MOT today but obviously it needs sorting
Is there a way of fixing these pumps (im thinking it may be an electrical problem) or should i just get a replacement?
The other thing is that its a bit lumpy during cold starts for a minute or so. Its had a full service including glow plugs and injector cleaner
cheers Read more
A colleague took the end off the PAS pump and cleaned the accumulated carbon out on his Saxo which fixed the PAS for the rest of the time he had it. I think he had to take the pump out to do it (although he couldn't release the hoses, so ended up doing it with the pump hanging under the car), and it involves peeling back the tabs to get the end off IIRC.
The lumpy starting may well be valve clearances closed up, or it could be perished leak off hoses letting air in if it has a Lucas pump (Bosch pump + air = no start!).
Thinking - as one does - I had four friends when I was a teenager who had done the IAM test. The end result was that they all drove like maniacs. If they could skid round a corner, they would; if they could go round it on two wheels, they would. Driving was an opportunity to show off.
Is it still like that? Or was I unlucky with my friends? Half of them had prangs which were "somebody else's fault" which actually meant that if they'd been driving sensibly the accident wouldn't have happened.
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As an IAM member of some years standing I do think they have done much good work in the past and are a valuable organisation. They seem to have taken a 'wrong turn' recently in trying to become more 'commercial' and 'business focussed'. Hiring new 'executives' with 'commercial experience' presumably cost a packet, plus they've spent a load more on marketing recently. Probably better to return to their traditional roots and get rid of the costly overheads.
This sort of thing seems to be theme with some of our best loved British organisations - e.g. AA, RAC etc becoming more 'commercial' always seems to lead to a steep rise in costs and few advantages for the customer.
I used to do a fair bit of part-time work for the Open University, a really invaluable organisation. A few years ago they tried to become more commercial and hired various 'suits' to 'take them forward'. The outcome was a poor attempt to expand into the US and a rumoured loss of £60m. To recoup this loss they changed the contracts of us part-time tutors (which led to less pay for more work). I resigned, as did many other experienced staff, leaving a weaker organisation behind.
I have always said that I wouldn't have an auto gearbox at any price and that I really enjoyed driving a manual. I did have a couple of autos back in the late 70s, a Jag XJ6 and a Volvo 164, but I never really got on that well with them.
So what has changed my mind? Well we were in the US in June and hired a Toyota Highlander and drove around New England and I really loved the relaxed driving of the auto, so much so I will be looking for an auto option the next time I change.
Now I know about the different types of auto, CVT, DSG, i-Shift and so on but what are they like to drive in full auto mode? I have heard good and bad reports on reliablity but it's more to do with the driving experience. It would be a new model anyway as I know the technology is improving all the time.
Are there any auto drivers out there who have done comparisons between the different types of gearboxes?
Andyfr Read more
>I admit, I am in a dilemma.<
In my 05 1.8 Almera auto tawse, I often nudge 45 MPG up on the ole computer, which I know is only a guide, Herself - who is the main driver, rarely gets over 40 MPG.
In my mobile car tuning days, we had a slogan which went "Drive as if there is an egg under your right foot" which is good advice for today me thinks !
We don't cover a lot of miles these days, so don't be guided by me, if running cost is a big issue & you cover a fair few miles, then maybe diesel is "The Way To Go"
As a rough guide to how many of my previous cars are still running I checked on www.askmid.com how many are currently insured. The only one shown was my last car, a 2 litre petrol Focus. All the rest are "missing, presumably dead". Read more
Well checking up on this depresses me somewhat.
I've owned 23 cars since 2000.
Excluding the 2 I currently own, 6 of the cars I scrapped myself leaving a possible 15 which could still be on the road.
Out of that 15 a grand total of 3 are currently insured according to the database.
Most of the cars were late 80's/early 90's models so, with the current scrap prices, its probably to be expected.
how much of a job is it to replace either front cross member or complete front panel?
failed MOT!.
Thanks. Read more
It's a common MOT failure point so there should be lots of garages who can do it quite cheaply.
Does anyone Know how easy or difficult it would be to drop a 406 turbo lump into a 309 gti body?
Many Thanks. Read more
First post and it's going to come across really badly, but my goodness , what alot of mis-information in this thread....
2.0 8v Turbo from the 406 is an XU engine (same as the 8v 130BHP 1.9 engine fitted to the 309 GTi std. although steel blocked rather than alloy (122 BHP with a CAT)). As such it will fit straight in with the top engine mount from a 306 XSi. Engine has 150 BHP std. + 200 BHP is reasonably easy to fit. You obviously need wiring and intercooler, but not a big task.
1.9 Mi16 (typically 160 BHP std. alloy block as per 1.9 8v) and 2.0 Mi16 (155 BHP std. steel block) are also XU engines and will also fit with minimal effort....and easy weekend if you know what you are doing. The 1.9 Mi16 was found in the Citroen BX and Peugeot 405 while the 2.0 Mi16 was found in the Peugeot 405, 306 and Citroen ZX (known as the S16 in the latter 2). Peugeot did actually produce a Mi16 309 in LHD for Europe only and known as the GTi-16. It did have some detail suspension changes over the std. GTi. There was never a 'factory' 205 Mi16, but Gutmann did produce a kit which may have been dealer fitted (prob. '86/'87).
2.0 GTi-6 engine from the Peugeot 306 and Citroen Xsara is also a steel blocked XU engine and can be fitted with either the 306 6-speed gearbox or the Xsara 5-speed gearbox (RH lock is comically non-existant with the 6-speed). It is slightly taller and tilting the brake M/C is the order of the day.
3.0 V6 from the 406 Coupe CAN be fitted to a 309 with NO modifications to the metalwork of the car (heavily modified sub-frame). With 194 BHP std. (210 BHP for the later fly-by-wire engine) they are well over 220 with a good exhaust, the CAT removed and a free-flow filter. Torque is the name of the game and it will slay Scoobies/Evo's.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugNuNSaa0Kw
www.crombiecarversioncompany.com/projects.html
Is there any difference in the procedure for rejecting a duff car if you've got it from a broker rather than from a dealer?
(Hypotheticeal, btw.) Read more
If bought other than 'face to face' what about the Distance Selling Regulations.
Just purchased a 53 plate 1.8 TDCi. Noticed wind noise and a draught coming through the front passenger door. I changed all the seals but the problem still persists. Is there any way of adjusting the door? I've noticed that the door must have been off in a previous life, so obvously hasn't been put on correctly. It's as if it needs to close by 1mm or so more.
I've seen some grub screws on the hinges, do they have anything to do with it?
Thanks for any help. Read more
if you look at the striker/catch on the inside door pillar opposite hinges.
you can adjust this undo the 2 tork screws no.40 i think .
undo the screws enough so you can lightly tap/adjust this catch futher back towards the interior of the vehicle this will pull the door to closing tighter on the rubbers .
perhaps go to a local body shop its only a 5 min job to adjust .
I have a 2005 x type estate that has just been in for a number of warrantee bits and bobs, one of them being there is an intermittent fault when trying to lock with key button.
Once a week (ish) the key will not lock the car. To rectify require the engine to be started and turned off again - this has always got whatever is wrong, back in sync.
The first trip from the garage after it was "fixed", it did it again.
I believe they reprogd the keys, which has not worked.
Has anyone else come across this ?
MLS IOM
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wife's car, 2005 model, did it a couple of times 2 years ago, had both keys re-programmed at main dealer under warranty and it cured it, never happened since
Browse
Im not sure if i'm allowed to recommend or not, but a good friend of mine runs his own car detailing company, and although he specialises in Prestige cars, he did a lovely job on a Golf i used to own, and I can throughly recommend his services. He has worked on Maybachs, Ferraris etc and is very competent.
As I said, he is an old friend, but that is where my connection to his compnay starts and ends; im sure he would provide you with a no obligation quote; details can be found at www.theshinexperience.co.uk/ and i believe he offers a very comprehensive, and reasonably priced service.........
If it's not the sort of thing you are looking for though, i had some scraches machined out by a "good 'ol boy" in overalls and he did a marvellous job for £100..... highly recommend that approach..........
:-)