July 2008
A friend of mine has an 07 Passat 2.0Tdi. She never checks her tyre pressures, so I gave her my spare digital tyre gauge. Trouble is it reads in psi. After much searching of door/pillar panels before reverting to handbook, I found the recomended pressures inside fuel filler cap. 2.8 bar is recommended...what is the equivalent psi please.
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There was a thread ages ago regarding 'dormant' footwell courtesy lights in Mondeo IIIs where the lamp holders were fitted but no bulbs, so increasing the spec of the higher level models by fitting the bulbs thus charging more for an 'extra' - if all mark 3 Mondeos had them, where would I look? I've poked about in all the likely places but can't find them on my car! Read more
I had a year 2001 Y reg mondeo mk3 2.0LX.
and fitted extra lights into the drivers and passenger side footwell, also did my father in laws year 2001 51 plate zetec model.
Hes never really trusted me, and when I said to him about fitting the extra bulbs was all worried and said should a dealer do it....20secs later both bulbs fitted and he wasn't so concerned, think he thought it was going to be a wire cutters job,,,,
when you stick your head into the footwell, and look up towards to the roof you want to follow the trim line that seperates the carpet and plastic on the underside of the dash, theres a few fixing screws (black of course) and unless you also have a little torch its easy to miss a hole with no screw in it....this of course is the bulb holder, they take 5w sidelight units costing about £1 for 2.
the one on the passenger side is also along this trim line, and again centrally positioned in the footwell.
Didn't keep my car long....it was a lemon to say the least, water leaking out of the high level brake light....was the rear water jet not sealed down, oil leaks, turned out dealer had over filled with oil and blown a seal, outstanding recall notice on brakes again dealer and rac who inspected the car blaimed each other, water leaked into the car via the drivers and rear drivers door skins, turned out to be faulty sealant when manufactured...and so it went on....oh and the dealer bent the car on the car ramp when it was having the rear calipers fixed....hmmm after 2 months of letters they bought the car back and I now own a v40...and its been trouble free....touch wood!!!
my father in laws car apart from leaky doors as well, and fixed first time was trouble free.....
Hi,
I've looked for it but haven't been able to find it on the wifes corsa.
Anyone know where I would find it on the engine bay as it's not very obvious?
Cheers Read more
Wow, excellent responses guys, just what I was hoping for.
I think bearing in mind my ability, that'll hand this over to a friendly mechanic.
Thanks again!
It start normally,but reved for a minute, then idle normally with no knoking sounds. While driving,from time to time,lack of power even when rev.Last day,start and driven about 100m, lots of dense black smoke from exhaust and no power at all,could not drive.management light is on.
Also, while rev at starting the spedo is moving up and down for that minute,then stops when idle.
Can anybody help me with an opinion?many thancks!
{subject header tidied up} Read more
I have news> today I took out the cat. converter>I noticed that when start, the engine idle normally,not rev-ed like before,and the speedometer is not moving at all.But when rav to 2000rpm is strruggle.Egr valve is working.Any idea what is it?
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Many thanks for the replys
Much appreciated.
Regards.
I had a 'low pressure' warning on my car this morning. (Very useful these pressure monitors)
Footpump out, then found I couldn't get the (metal) dust caps off. Tried a pair of small pliers and the whole valve split in two. Tried the other three and all are seized to the valves. Rang the dealer who stated he used to work in the tyre business. Apparently the caps oxidise to the pressure valve and they split when you try to get them off.
So I've got the spare on the front and a rear valve is decidedly wobbly. I'll be interested to see if the dealer s going to stump up the cost of replacement under warranty. (Getting the car to them is going to be interesting)
So f you've got metal dust caps on a car with tyre pressure monitors-TAKE THEM OFF NOW! Read more
Pleased to say that the dealer has replaced all four valves free of charge, with no quibble at all. Not even a suggestion that I would have to pay/contribute. Good for them. I'm aware that there's no naming and shaming on here, but I hope that giving credit to a good dealer is allowed. {no problems with that - DD}
Warners Peugeot of Tewkesbury....full marks to you.
I am currently doing some sums to take back to my Mazda dealer for a personal contract plan. The APR is obviously fixed and the deposit is up to me. The two dealer quoted figures which affect the payments are the price new and the GFV. I know that there is movement to be had on the price but is the GFV set in stone? They are quoting less than most for this figure, however, they will guarantee this even if the car is worth less. Read more
In fact the APR will vary with every element of the deal - change the
purchase price deposit or GFV and the APR will change.
Not necessarily - though the amount of interest will change if the rate stays the same.
If anyone wants real interest rates/APRs calculating, provide the figures and I'll happily do it. All I need to know is what the cash price is, what you have to pay, and when you have to pay it.
I was assured by a car salesman last week that I would be better taking a loan at 6.9% APR and leaving my money in the bank at 5%, as 6.9% APR is 3% flat which is less than 5%. He doesn't know much about the cars he's selling either, but it doesn't stop him making nonsense statements with unshakeable self confidence.
Must mention the experts and myself ;-) do not advice coasting because you will not be in total control of the car.
just asking out of curiosity. IF i was to coast i will leave the car in gear and simply keep the clutch pedal pressed to the floor.
In cars over 15 years or so before the ECU and fuel management came into effect you can save fuel if you press the clutch down and take your foot off the accelerator pedal when going downhill for example. In effect the car will be going at the same speed while the engine is idling therefore saving fuel.
Does this work with modern cars? With the clutch pressed in there will be enough fuel supplied to keep the engine idling.
Someone told me that if you simply take the foot of the accelerator the fuel supply will be cut-off/reduced to save fuel. This makes sense?
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"It will make no difference,CV joints,driveshafts,diff and most of the gears will be driven by the wheels"
But in neutral, they're not driving the engine. Not a big issue, as NC points out, but a difference nonetheless.
I once had a 2-stroke Wartburg, which by virtue of its lubrication system (petroil) had a freewheel mechanism to avoid underlubrication on the overrun. The car (a roomy estate) was very smooth and economical, possibly because every time you lifted off, the engine reverted to tickover - I loved it.
X18XE-1 VECTRA 1.8SRI T REG 90K
Hi to all on Honest John's forum.
My car has started to run bad after 7 miles from cold when the engine light comes on, or 3 miles if i stop it for 5 mins then start again then it runs bad again, the pattern is always the same. It sounds like its running on 3 cylinders and its struggles to go up hills.
I had hoped it was the yellow/brown wire to earth fault but both of these have a good earth anyway!!!
From what i have read on some forums it might be the crack case sensor, they say its when it gets warm it would then be wrong!!! not sure why!
I would imagin its not cheap for one of these sensors to try one then to find out its not the issue.
Also it looks bad to access and its got one of them silly screw heads.
Does anyone know where the paper clip testing thing is on this car, then if the test shows up as the sensor i would risk buying one.
Thanks for any help
ps up untill now this has been my best car ever. Read more
Got a coil pack from the local Vauxhall dealers and fitted it and its running perfect.
Thanks to all on this forum i could not have done this without you.
links.pictures.aol.com/pic/04d0fiB5P5ZkLl1ZlzcBguP...g
links.pictures.aol.com/pic/04d0fiB5P5ZkLl1ZlzcBguP...g
Hi, i was wondering who is responsible for such things as insurance, mot etc because i took my car back to where i brought it a few months ago so they can fix it and so i have been given a car to borrow whilst mine is being repaired (even came with for sale sign which has been thrown on passenger seat).
So my question is as above, who is responsible for insurance, mot etc, cos i can see its got tax in the window but as for insurance, i know its not covered by my car insurance because that is for my vehicle only and even states in it that it does not include cover for any other cars.
hope someone can shine a light on this.
thanks Read more
hi, thanks for all your replies. in regards to insurance, i rang up my insurance company and told them, they issued me with temporary cover for the loan vehicle at no extra cost. so thats a bonus. i'd rather be over insured than under insured.
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41 psi sounds well too high for a Passat. EDIT just looked up a Passat on Dunlops website, perhaps it isn't.
by the way, 1 bar = approx 14.5 psi