March 2008
Hi everyone, this is my first time putting a posting on the forum. I have a problem with my 2001 Xantia Hdi. Something is draining the battery over about 2 days.
This appears to be through the 15amp main relay circuit fuse under the bonnet. When you remove the fuse there is not battery drain but you cannot start the car. The main ECU double relay has been replaced along with the glow plug relay but still the drain occurs.
Putting a meter on it its draws 0.6amp constantly when the ignition is off. Does anyone have any ideas what this could be as it has been to a local garage 3 times and they cannot fault it.
This seemed to happen when the battery was replaced just before Christmas and is still an ongoing problem. You can also hear the current running through the main loom on the front of the engine to the relay/ECU.
Can anyone help?
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I've read or seen something recently (can't remember where, thought it might have been Watchdog, but 'the boss' says she doesn't remember it) about a chap who parked in a m/way service station when driving from Cornwall to Scotland overnight and copped a fine because he stayed in a service station car park for more than 2 hours whilst having a nap...was zapped on a camera.
would be interested to hear what others think. Personally i think we ought to be encouraging drivers to take decent rest stops, not fining them.... and what harm was he doing in the middle of the night. When we do overnight journeys to Scotland, when we stop in a service station, more often than not we're the only ones in there.
How come the French provide decent rest stops with picnic tables etc, whereas over here you get sod all and are expected to pay through the nose for something wholly unpalatable.
{amended typo in subject header} Read more
I hate being a a seagull following the trawler throwing sardines in the forum, but here goes:
If the people running them can't achieve profits from the provision of 24 food and drink plus fuel sales and shop items, then they don't deserve to run a business. >>
Why don't you bid for running one of these service areas since you are such a clever businessman?
Just thought I would share my experiences in fitting a parrot handsfree system.
Now typically, these cost from £100 fitted by Halfords for the basic CK3000 but you can buy the units on their own for £60 so the fitting is costing you £40.
I got the slightly better model, the 3100 and fitted it in my work's Transit van. Now I am not in any shape or form technically minded but it was a relatively straightforward job. My only problem was trying to get the radio out - couldn't get the keys anywhere and eventually had to ask a friendly car audio installer for a loan of his keys for 2 mins.
Apart from that the Parrot comes with leads that are all shaped so that they can only fit one other fiting so there is no doubt where any of them go. If your radio is not ISO then you need to get a separate lead - Halfords will charge £20 for this but available for about half that on the net.
The system itself works great, sound comes through the car speakers, caller can hear you clearly and you can use the control for voice-tag dialling if required.
The only slight problem is finding a place for the parrot box and associated cabling. This was obviously easier in a big Transit which had ample space behind the dashboard, than a small car.
Very happy with the unit, even happier (and OK quite chuffed with myself) that I was able to fit it myself!
Considering if you get caught using a mobile its £60 and 3 points, then the same sixty quid is a good investment!
Isn't it a good feeling when you feel that you have achieved something on your day off! Read more
I've had one for a year. It is very good, although more sophisticated phones are harder to set up.
For once I wanted to make this a general any car post, but since it seems to come up a lot with tdci models...
We regularly see posts mentioning injector coding as a repair. What exactly is this?
My guess would be that with the high pressures used these days accelerating injector wear and the multiple injections of fuel into each cylinder per cycle, that the ecu can fiddle with the durations of injection and the intervals between them.
I can see that these parameters might be tweaked as injectors wear, or indeed to allow for variation in injector performance when new.
So, am I correct? If so what does recoding involve? Do they remove the injectors and test them to assess the flow rate accurately? Using the info gained to recalibrate the ecu?
Or am I totally mis-understanding?
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also the injector coding is quite simple to carry out & plenty of diagnostic gear now has this facility. there are certain guidelines for different makes but the principle the same. If you suspect a coding issue a good Indy should be able to recode for you. Ford peugeot fiat renault Landrover ( L/R started off with 4 digit coding but how now got longer digits to allow for all variants ) etc all use this facility.
Doc
My sister-in-law has a Honda civic and asked me to change a front indicator bulb. "Not a problem" I say. User manual says access bulb from wheelarch - undo a couple of fixings from the arch liner, pop your hand in and remove bulb....
An hour later, wheel off, many more than 2 fixings removed and brute force to pull back liner I manage to change a simple indicator bulb!!! Maybe I'm missing something or just don't have the small, delicate Japanese hands required! Incredible that cars can have such difficult to replace service items nowadays - it should be outlawed!!
{year supplied via an email to me - DD} Read more
it doesn't seem that unusual these days, i wonder whether designers do this to force us to give the work to the dealers ! but i always was a cynical old sceptic.
P reg 2L petrol v40 estate.
Is this reallt rubbish MPG
I did run from Liphook to Gatwick and 2 runs from Gatwick to Brighton and back
The rest of the tank was used locally.
25.99 mpg Read more
I had an R reg S40 2 Litre - I can honestly say it was the worst car I ever had. Fuel consumption wasn't too bad - about 28 - 30, but only 500 miles to a litre of oil! Reliability was awful - in the 3 years I had it (lease car), it was back at the dealers every two months (or even more frequent) for yet another problem.
In the first two weeks, it was in my posession for a mere 36 hours! Dealer was also dreadful. I was glad to switch back to Saab. I'll never have a Volvo again.
My son has just left his Vauxhall Vectra (1997) with me and gone on holiday. The car won't open with the remote control and when I use the key the alarm goes off but stops when the ignition is switched on. I've changed the battery in the remote control but it hasn't made any difference - any suggestions?
{year added to subject header - the 3 separate requests for this obviously became invisible again!} Read more
Yes, I know someone who was charged an not inconsiderable sum for this service. He was amazed when I told him the instructions are in the handbook. Moral - RTFM!
Oh, and for the record, later cars have a different system - but again it's in the handbook.
JS
tinyurl.com/3dk4my
link to Sky News website
It appears that the crash earlier today involved several well known motor sport folk.
Thought and prayers go out to all those involved and their families.
Apologies if not allowed to include the link. Read more
regards to the lost, sympathy to the families ...
Can any one help ,I've lost the use of windscreen washers. I've no live to pump when stalk is pressed,any ideas, I've checked obvious fuses
year ? Read more
Hi, I really need some help choosing my next car.
Requirements:
- Big enough for dog (small), baby, me, wife, luggage, pushchair, luggage
- Very safe with the latest safety technology
- Less than 3 years old
- Quick
- Comfortable and luxurious
- Gadgets, eg xenon lights, sat nav (not essential), leather, memory/heated seats
- Must have a young person's image, coz im only 27 and dont want something like a Skoda
Budget: £30,000
What I'm currently considering (but open to more suggestions):
- Audi S4 (B7) - not sure if this is big enough?
- Merc ML 280/320 diesel - have test driven a 280, good but not remarkably quick.
Many thanks Read more
Many thanks for the advice given so far, i will have a look at all these suggestions and report back soon.
a quick update - started engine then stopped engine. noise occured again - appears to be below battery area, above clutch housing.
after about 30 seconds, the ecu [or a relay in same area] clicked and the tone of the noise changed - like the speed of a motor changing.
disconnecting battery had no effect!!