March 2008
Hi, My car is a 02 civic 1.4s, done 73k. It has some grinding, whirring noise in Neutral and becomes quite loud in 1st and 2nd gear. However there isnt any noise when the clutch is down.
I took it to nationwide for a check but all they said was some internal problem with gearbox..... and quote me for at least £1200 to replace it.
Is it likely to be problems with bearings or i will need to replace whole gearbox ? which one will be cheaper ?
also i want to know roughly how much will be the labour cost for gearbox change.
I'm extremely worry as i cant go to work without my car, hope someone can help, Thanks Read more
Car drives perfectly. Idling is perfect. BUT engaging drive the lever baulks and when forced in causes a horrible crunching noise. The button on the side of the gearlever is fine. The crinching noise comes from the gearbox rather than the base of the lever. Also hard to move out of drive. You need to hit it, then it goes. There is no problem from park to reverse. Only really into drive. The car has done 62,000 miles and is worth less than a gearbox, even 2nd hand. Does anyone know what the problem is?
Thanks. Richard Read more
Was your problem solved anyhow?
I hope so, it was sixteen years ago.
I have had the car since new, it has now done 40,000 miles. Ever since new but only occasionally, say 10% of starting attempts, I wait for the Glow Plug Indicator Light to go out then turn the key, the starter attempts to start the engine, no response. I release the key and see that the GPIL is flashing, the engine will not start if attempted. But turn the key to off, then start again, the GPIL is steady, goes out, turn key, engine starts. Is this a problem or just an irritation, please?
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Dear Kith & Screwloose,
While in France for a month with hot weather the starting problem was pronounced. Got as bad as every second start. Better when home during this winter called August. On Screwloose's recent advice elsewhere I bought the camshaft sensor and fitted it on Friday (8th), yes there is another and larger clip on the underside. It has been a revelation, better low speed pickup, no bogging down at low speeds and to date has started first time each time. I have not been able to check codes, my reader is elsewhere! A well invested £16-73. Thank you for your help.
lilley
Hi, we have received a strange item at one of our charity shops and keen to work out what they are. Any takers?
i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii181/Glasgow_Hospice/...g
i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii181/Glasgow_Hospice/...g
They may be something as simple as stacking picnic cups, but why 6 different sizes? They come in a leather case about 6-7 inches high. I am sure the "cups" are plastic but they seem to have a "bone" type colouring to them. The base of each cup is clear plastic.
Any ideas? A Magician's? Though doubt they would have clear bottoms!
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I know that Superdrug sometimes sell them at a discount.
They sell them cheaper in Costco too, packs of 60 first class stamps for £19.19 = 31.9p each last time I looked. I wonder what price Royal Mail sell them for wholesale?
The left indicators are functioning as they should. Turning right is a different matter. The relay is clicking and the lights appear to work on the outside. However the little green direction light on the dash appears to have stopped working. Same with Hazard warnings. Just the left arrow flashes.
Could this be a faulty relay or connection in the indicator stalk or has the bulb in the dashboard given up the ghost. I would assume if the bulb has gone in the dash I will be shafted going to the dealer.
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This could be a fault with the indicator relay .It is situated in the fuse box to the right of steering column behind drop down plastic panel.It is a double relay yellow in colour.Put your finger on it while operating the indicators to locate the correct unit.hth
I've done this job a couple of times already in the past but have had real difficulty fitting the replacement arm. I now have to do the job again due to the common de-bonding of the rear bush. I'm told that speed humps accelerate this problem.
Haynes suggest dismantling in the order of: 1) hub carrier pinch bolt 2) anti roll bar 3) front bush pivot bolt 4) rear bush bolt and suggest re-assembling in the reverse order.
I've found it very difficult to get the hub carrier back on to the ball joint due to the angles involved and would be grateful for any tips.
I've also tried just about every other order of re-assembly but whichever stage is left until last is very diifcult to re-fit.
I'm a reasonably experienced DIYer but have found this to be very frustrating - has anyone else struggled with this one?
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Thanks guys, this sounds like what I tried to do last time.
It's coming back to me now. I just couldn't get the suspension arm low enough to get the ball joint into the hole on the hub carrier, even after setting the ball joint with the correct 'angle of approach'.
I ended up putting a coil spring compressor on the strut to try to 'shorten' it. I don't think it helped much and I seem to remember wrestling with it for ages until I somehow got it back together.
I'm really not looking forward to doing it again.
pmh - if you do your pair before I do mine, post how you get on, I'll do the same!
Hi,
Earlier on today, I removed the drivers side front alloy wheel to give it a good clean as I noticed that the inner side of the alloy was covered in grease. I had assumed that it was just road grime, however upon closer inspection I have found that the clip on the end of the CV Boot has broken and that the grease on the alloy has leaked from the CV Boot. The grease was also over the caliper, the sensor for the ABS etc, of which most I have now cleaned up.
Is this a case of just purchasing a new clip and fitting it? or because some grease has leaked out will the CV Boot need replacing or repacking with grease? I personally, would prefer that the CV Boot is repacked with grease just to be sure, but as i'm only your average DIY mechanic, I don't want to start it, get half way through and then find it's more awkward than it looked, as I need the car back on the road ASAP for work.
For the time being, I have temporarily attached 2 tie wraps to the CV Boot as it is all I have to hand, I don't intend driving it far in this condition, as i doubt it will last long, only to my local Vauxhall garage if need be.
Can anyone advise please?
Thank you
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Can you buy the clips & grease without the full CV joint kit?
Yes, you can buy the clips and grease separately. It is vital that the mating surface between the boot and cv joint is free of grease.
Don't be tempted to use cable ties on the GM plastic boot. As you've already discovered the boot is quite stiff and cable ties aren't man enough to hold the boot in place for very long.
ps, unless you have the proper pliers, getting the metal clip on tight can be a nightmare. Like you I resorted to a pair of blunt pinchers (so they wouldn't cut into the metal) and squeezed the handles together with a small vice.
My windscreen washer electric pump is working but no water is coming out of the jets. What should I look for?
Regards
Peter Read more
Sorry for the late reply.
But still no reply to the email that I sent you (9th March) asking for the year so that I could edit it into the subject line.
I am forever irritated by drivers who indicate badly or not at all, but after driving an Astra pool car for a number of weeks I am wondering whether some of this is down to poor car design.
I can not get used to the new Astra's indicator stalk which doesn't rest up/down when indicating right/respectively. I have no problems with my own car, which paradoxically is a Zafira. But registered in 2000, my Zafira does have an indicator stalk that parks in the up/down position when signalling.
When leaving roundabouts in the Astra, having indicated left, I never know whether the indicator has cancelled itself or not. On several occasions I though it had not cancelled, then inadvertently found myself indicating right because in fact it had cancelled itself (the audio indicator clicking level is very dim so that doesn't help when road noise is added in). On other occasions I thought the indicator had cancelled, then noticed that it hadn't and I was still signalling left. A similar problem arises when changing lanes on motorways, which must also annoy the drivers around me - and my worst fear is that it could prove to be dangerous.
So now, when driving the Astra, I find myself continuously taking my eyes off the road after I've indicated, having to look down to see if the indicator is still on or not. My old Zafira allows me to feel whether the indicator is still engaged without taking my eyes of the road.
Why has Vauxhall adopted this style of indicator stalk? There seems to be nothing to gain by it and everything to lose. When I eventually replace my Zafira this is one thing that would put me off buying another. Read more
Hi, totally agree with the thread.
I admit I've only had my Astra 3 days but I feel like a total idiot with the indicators. Sure, I'll figure it out and get used to them but the issue is that surely someone else has to drive my ca they'll be going through the same thing. I'm finding myself looking down to check if I operated the stalk to the correct position or if I overshot.
Why fix what isn't broke? My last car was a Golf and they have it spot on. It's a conventional stalk operation but if the stick isn't move the the retention point only three flashes are given. Simple and effective. Friends driving the car commented how clever they though it was. I now fear that the same friends will be using harsh language at me if I ask them to drive us! How am I supposed to have a drink?
I know I'm not alone because I see many other Astra driving looking equally frustrated as they drive around in the disco.
hi can any one explain wheres my idle contol valve is and airflow meter and throttle boddy???????ive had my vectra x reg 1.8 ls on a comp to see why engine man light is on and its come up with these faults,i want to clean them etc to hopefully save some cash.thanks.
{year + engine added to subject header as per the 3 separate requests!} Read more
I seem to recall older Vauxhalls like Cavaliers seemed to be notorious for idle solenoid problems.
My 1.4 Civic Max 96000 miles, has developed the same problem. Noisy in the 1st to 3rd gears on acceleration and noisy thrust bearing at idle , clutch out.
I had it on the ramps at a garage yesterday and the knocking was quite apparent. ...