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Could anyone please explain how to tell the difference between the 70bhp 1.3 ka engines from the less powerful 1.3 engines? Is the difference stated on the cylinder head or is their another way of telling? Did one version come out after the other or at different times to the other? The reason I ask is I have test drove a view and some seem faster than others. Is there a few checks I can do so I get a good one. Any help is most appreciated.
Edited by Pugugly on 06/03/2008 at 18:34
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60bhp Ka will have ENDURA-E stamped on its rocker cover. The newer one is DURATEC.
Change was around mid-2002.
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Any of the old Endura engines will almost certainly be identifiable by the rattling tappets without even opening the bonnet... :-))
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Any of the above, and another good indicator is the position of the spark plugs.
Front of the engine = old Endura engine
Back of the engine = new Duratec engine.
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Thank you to all for the replies. Another thing , is there any checks I can do on a test drive to check the engine is okay.
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Checks on test:
Before hand: check oil and water and under oil filler cap. No oil in water, water in oil, no white scum under cap. if yes: to first two run away. White scum on cap could be cold weather. on dipstick= broken HG.
1. Start the engine from cold. Yourself. Sitting in car.
Watch the oil pressure light (see handbook first). Light should go out within 2-3 secs of starting. Any longer? Problems with oil pressure /worn engines.
2. Does it start easily? Obvious . Any squealing noises (drive belts)?
3. Do all other warning lights go out? (watch there IS an ABS warning light - if ABS is fitted. Crooks remove it to hide a fault ££)
3. Does it tickover ok when cold? Any misfires? Or reving up and down.? If yes run away.
4. When driving away, smooth power delivery. No misfires. Drive until it is warm: temperature guage or light at least 3-4 miles. Check it idles OK. Pull up and stop when warm. Does engine stall? or revs up and down.
5. Accelerate hard in all gears. No misfires.
6. When warm , stop and let it idle.
Check under for oil and water leaks after 5 minutes idling. Check water temperature guage. Any leaks or overheating, it's US. Run away.
Is oil very black and thick and horrible? and oil filter covered in oil and dirt looks like old/never changed.? Check maintenance history.
Odd noises/ vibrations, blue/black smoke from exhaust when cold or warm? Exhaust noises?
You don't want it.
Oil pressure warning light comes on at 6? Run away.
Also check clutch does not slip.. try starting in 2nd gear with revs and acclerate up hill at 30mph in 4th gear foot flat down. Engine accelerates with no go = slip.
Basically anything abnormal means the vendor cannot or will not fix it before sale. Ignore all promises. If it was easy to fix, they would before sale. Anything.
A good vendor sells a car with no obvious faults. If you find anything wrong they're a bad vendor. Of course if it's a £300 banger... but even then faults will cost.
And finally when you check the oil: if the dipstick is filthy = no maintenace, And if oil level = low, worn engine.
Under the engine bay, signs of rusty stains/rusty radiator/leaks or big oil leaks all run away.
If it looks bad, it probably is., If it looks perfect and shiny clean, it's been cleaned up for you so watch out.
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all good stuff above, but I don't think the KA has a temp guage.
also check the heater works, and that you can turn it off.
Brakes are a bit variable for feel - there are more which need a good shove to work, than not: debated here previously.
Check for bodywork rust: they are seriously bad for a "modern" car.
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Permission to hijack thread?
Is changing a clutch on the later type "similar" to the earlier one.
I ask because little brother wants help changing his clutch but all the usual Haynes manuals only seem to have the earlier engine in them. Seems straight forward enough at first glance.
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