February 2006
Hello Again,
I've just bought an ex company car from my big PLC. The dept dealing with this have not yet managed to get the V5 from the leasing company, however I have to get it taxed in a couple of weeks.
HOw might I do this given that the DVLA won't have processed the change of ownership in time and therefore won't send the tax renewal form to the right place? What doc's do I actually need to tax a car?
Thanks (again) everyone
from Jase Read more
library.thinkquest.org/2993/drivin.htm
--
L\'escargot. Read more
Well they don't answer back anyway...
Hi guys,
Back again... thanks for all your previous input ( www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=38983 ). I put last time that it was a Renualt Megane.... It's a renault scenic but also has Megane on it - so thought it was known in the circles as a megane - gee I own the car and don't even know what car it is - how blonde.
Anyway - regarding your suggestion regarding clutch drag causing the crunching into reverse gear only.
One of the men from work had a look at the car. It has a self adjusting clutch automatic. Under the dash there is a tooth gear that grabs the clutch when you press it it. It is sitting on the very last tooth.
Question? Have I a loose clutch cable?
Or now for the biggy - have I worn out the clutch completely. I have to tell a confession. I learnt to drive manual on this car - brand new car, now only 3 and half years old now. Get ready for this - heads were in hands when I told the blokes at work. I have been driving this car with my foot resting on the clutch pedal from day one. Not pressed it - but the guys think that by resting my foot on the clutch even the tiniest bit would have worn out some part of the clutch?? I thought that it was like the brake and needed to be depressed before it had any effect.
If it is a problem with the teeth of the automatic clutch adjuster can this be fixed easily.
Don't worry guys - your safe on the roads - I'm in OZ and am using this website because it looked very informative.
Thanks
the Aussie
Read more
I would safely say the clutch is kn!!!!!!!!!ed.
I am thinking of buying a Honda CRV 2.2i-CTDi Sport. Most of the reviews of the diesel have been favorable however I have seen some owners comments about problems after a few thousand miles of the engine suddenly loosing power. Honda dealers seem unaware of this. Has anyone come across this problem.
Read more
CR-V is much better than Rav-4 in pretty much every
aspect!
If comparing the "new" CRV vs "old" RAV4 - you're probably
right. Other than the dynamics, the CRV is probably the better
all-round car.
However, the new (06/07MY) RAV4 seems to be more than a
match for the new CRV.
tinyurl.com/aeap4
...Until the all new CR-V is released at the end of this year! :-)
P.S. What on earth went wrong with the design of the dash on the new Rav? Looks like a massacre has taken place!
------------
MoneyMart
Current car: 55-reg Audi A4 2.5 V6TDi Quattro flappy-paddle
Hello all.
1992 A 80Tdi suddenly started acting up.
Loss of power,as if in limp home mode then an equally sudden bout of erratic running as if the ignition was being flicked on and off.
All ECU block connections and Ignition Switch connections checked and found ok.....Any thoughts ? Read more
At this age of car, check for air leaks from intake side, i.e rubber air intake pipe from air-filter housing to inlet manifold. Check security of these pipes and joints and make sure all jubilee clips (or similar) are tight. Make sure all vacuum hoses/pipes are also secure with no sign of perishing.
The symptoms can also be a sign of a problem with the air-flow meter. Having said that, being a diesel, if any of the low pressure side of the fuel system are leaking and sucking in air then you will experience surging and general rough running.
A quick rule is the low pressure side of the fuel system is the fuel tank and hoses incl filter and housing - right up to the diesel injection pump. These hoses are often rubber or rigid plastic. Check carefully for loose connections or perishing.
The high pressure side fuel lines are metal and you can find them on the injection pump and injectors. You will notice small bore rubber hoses coming from the injectors. These are leak-off pipes and take unused diesel (at low pressure) back to either the pump or back to the tank. If these leak, they can cause running problems.
Check the simplest things first before condemning the ECU etc, but don't feel for leaks around the high pressure pipes with the engine running, just in case you have a leak at the injector unions. Most diesel pumps run at 170 bar (a bar being 14.7 pounds per square in) or 2,499 psi !
Andrew
I am looking into buying a 2001 ALFA ROMEO SPORTWAGON 1.6 TS 5dr Sportwagon advertised with 101,000 miles on it for £2700. I have never owned one so would like some advice on maintenance cost, reliability and any major flaws with them. I have read that they are not very well made and fall apart quite easily. Read more
I have read about the gear crunching and paint issues. It seems they have few problems with them.
Hi
I was just wonder why has no-one made a diesel motorbike. I've done a forum serch but that didn't really awnser my question, It just said someone has made one but nothing seems to have come of it. Does enyone know why?
Read more
Seems a brilliant bit of kit 0-60 in 10.4 seconds though....this would run on central heating oil.
Currently run a 1.2 16V Fiat Punto CVT (Speedgear). It runs as sweet as the proverbial nut but at 10,000 miles I've noticed a grinding noise coming from the front brakes. I'm guessing that the pads need to be replaced; although it's an auto and the brakes need to be used more, would this be 'average' mileage as it seems a bit early??? I don't brake excessively late or hard and the noise is more noticeable at low speed. No noticeable affect on braking. Suggestions welcome. As this is my first time on, please feel free to move it to the 'technical' section if it's better there.
Cheers
Read more
Cheers, Oldman and for others' replies.
I agree entirely, Oldman - one person's definition of a car being driven 'carefully' or 'not braking hard' can be different form another's! I should say I bought the car with 500 miles on the clock, so the previous owner may have been quite hard on the brakes...! I'm getting them checked on Saturday so will let you know what happens!
aaflyer
Hi there,
While driving on the motorway the cam belt on my golf shredded, which course my car to lose engine power and stop.I have been told it will cost me £150/200 to put on a new cam belt to try the engine.Will this be worth doing,considering the car was purchase for £800 and has 84,000 miles on the clock or is it scrapheap time Read more
The 95 is a MK II and think it is an inerferace engine. Remove spark plugs and wire up a small 12v bulb and a length of wire and feed it through the plug holes so you can see if there is any debris or valve marks in top of the pistons which I suspect there will be. Good Luck. Peter
My 54 plate TDi had just come up to a year old. It is set to flexible servicing and was wondering if there is any benefit in changing the oil after a year or 10000 miles old. The book says it's good for 30000 miles or 24 months. Can anyone recommend otherwise Read more
My TDi touran is on longlife, but gets serviced at one year or as per the service computer, which ever comes first. This is a bit of a compramise, as its longer than 10k, but well short of what the computer thinks.
Joe
Browse
I have the little slip from the bottom of the V5 now.
Apparently the leasing company have sent the rest of the V5 off. However, I haven't signed any bit of it so I don't know how that works! I believe the buyer AND the seller are supposed to sign section 8 (according to the back of the little slip bit I've got anyway)