February 2006
Hi, I own a 1992 Rover 214 Cabriolet (I know, poor me!!!), well recently gear selection has become abit of a gamble....... sometimes it'll go in, sometimes it won't. I can also, sometimes hear a rattling noise when the clutch pedal is depressed. I thought thrust bearing but the noise is quieter than any thrust bearing rattle I've heard. Any ideas anyone, please, before I go and have a clutch fitted. Thanks in advance! Read more
>>When I removed the 'box drain plug the magnetic tip had about a centimetre thickness of metal shards, and oil was black, does this suggest a knackered gearbox?
These gearbox`s were meant to be sealed for life,ie oil should last lifetime of box (never did think this a good idea)I would change oil in box every 3 years with oil stated by rovers,but never kept one long enough to do so.
as these are at best on occasions hard to change into reverse due to crunching of gear, suspect its come from reverse gear area bearing wear,black oil is not good so would suggest after all your hard work if no change try a another gearbox,bear in mind secondhand box is not likely to be any different,best to get recon from decent reconditioner that can be trusted to do a good job/give a good warranty
--
Steve
Got the mum's corolla serviced today and they claim I need new wiper rubbers? at 11.75 and new rear pads for £65
Now I am not sure if the pads really need doing, how can I check if they are worn or whatever?
its a 2002 2.0D4D Read more
third opinion, what are you on about?
I have only been told by the dealer today when I
serviced it that I need new pads!
The first dealer kept the car all day.
Well... you said "I think I may need new pads, will check myself tomorrow and then probbably see what the specialist says tomorrow before coming to any final conclusion"
I make that one opinion... the Toyota dealer. Second opinion... 'will check myself, tomorrow'. Third opinion... the 'specialist'.
If the first dealer kept the car all day, does that not make their check exceptionally thorough, by your logic?
Anyway... have fun, ideally with brakes.
Neil
Hi,
recently bought a peugeot 306 M reg and not long after buying it when I drove along the engine would cut out, but if i tryed to start the engine again it would first time.
Now I wished it still did that, I called out the AA and he blead the fuel and it was lots of air within the fuel supply. I have drained around 8 litres of disael but the air is still there.
I was just curious if there is if anyone knows of a common problem or solution to this.
Thank you so much.
Matt Read more
The seal on your fuel filter housing needs checking, also the 'Lemon' hand pump can get holed and let air in......
Have my first "personal lease" car: ie I won't be keeping it, so don't care what it's resale value is.
I understand that it is no longer necessary / compulsory to have it serviced at a main agent?
That being the case, any suggestions of where to take it, in Chorley, Lancashire area?
Or, what minimum requirements would there be for me to consider in choosing a suitable garage?
It's a Mercedes CLK 220 Diesel.
Thanks for any comments Read more
it would be pretty shabby of the manufacturer to duck responsibility,
wouldn't it?
>>
I agree, but a lot of them are pretty shabby !
Last night on trying to open my Omega Elite the drivers door and drivers side rear passenger door would not open after using the remote opening.I got in via front passenger door.
The problem seems to be that the locking pins are not coming up far enough.
Can anyone help-is the an adjustment?
Read more
I've changed two of these motors in the last 6 years or so on mine - there's little adjustment in them I'm afraid, they're not too expensive though (about £45 if I recall)but tricky to fit (trim removal etc). You can try spraying a little WD40 down the poppers - this certainly helps for a while but when they stop moving you've no choice but to replace them. I'd also avoid deadlocking your car (two presses on the plipper) until you've sorted it - if the poppers don't come up in deadlocked mode you're heading down to your nearest main dealer!
Having agonised over which A6 diesel to get last year I'm now changing my job and have the oh so awful task of choosing another new car.
Considering a 5 series this time (although may stick to the A6), but wondered which diesel to go for. I suspect it'll be between the 520d and the 525d, as I suspect I'll be struggling to get all the options I want if I go for the 530d. Performance wise the 2.0d looks fine - but interested to hear from anyone who has experience of both.
I drive on my own most of the time, but occasionally haul the family plus luggage.
ta Read more
" I think this is a 'petrol engine' way of looking at things, there is little significant benefit in performance of the 2.5 diesel over the 2.0 diesel, except perhaps for being slightly smoother, but there is a significant difference in fuel consumption between the two. Personally, I cant see why anyone would go for the 2.5, unless they wanted to regularly tow something quite heavy."
No, mine's a 2.5 TDI. I tried both before going for the 2.5 and I found it a lot smoother and (particularly) quieter: with the multitronic transmission the 4-cylinder 2.0 makes a not particularly pleasant drone. Subjectively the extra torque of the 2.5 seemed to make it feel much faster, and for the long trips I do (though no towing, thank goodness) its effortless cruising is a real bonus.
Fuel consumption is about 6-7 mpg worse than the 1.9 TDI Golf estate I had before - on balance I think it's worth this penalty.
I have a T reg 306 diesel and it is blowing cold air. I have changed the thermostat and also checked coolant levels which are fine. There is heat in the piping and having checked the air bleeding valve there is hot water which means the heater matrix is working and i can't think what else it could be. Any ideas would be most welcome as it is quite cold outside!! Read more
If the head gasket is on its way out, the cooling system would be over-pressurising, meaning that coolant will be lost from the top of the expansion tank through pressurisation. In addition the top radiator hose will remain hard, long after the engine has cooled down after a run. My 1994 306TD ran for 5k miles with a blowing head gasket (heater still worked) before giving up the ghost a year ago to this day whereby the coolant was pushed straight out of the expansion tank resulting in instant overheating.
Might be worth draining the cooling system, flushing it through and refilling it using the header tank method in case there is an airlock. Remember to open all bleed screws when refilling, closing each one as water comes out, starting with the lowest one.
Martin
I considered tagging this on the end of the other CC thread, but it's slightly different.
Do you think it would be possible to retrofit a CC module etc from a 406 HDi to my 306? It would be really handy...
I did get in contact with Conrad Anderson but it's a little too expen$ive for me, sadly.
We would recommend the AP300 base unit with one of the stalk command modules
AP300 £200
CM19 £45
or CM25 £85
possible clutch switch £12.50
Fitting by us £135
all prices inc vat Read more
On my reply above where I state that posh versions of the 306 had cruise control, I meant to say "On the continent". Dont think cruise ever came to the UK in a 306, just available abroad.
Could anyone give me some advice on how much to advertise my car for please?
Its a 99 T E46 316i SE. Its red with 71k, alloys, climate etc in very good condition for the age. 10 months MOT
Any help appreciated Read more
If it's as good as you say, I'll give you a hundred and fifty quid for it.
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