October 2006
At some point I will be changing the transmission fluid on my 1995 Toyota Celica 2.0i 16v (175bhp) Automatic. It is a 4-speed arranged as 3plus O/drive button, as Ithink most Toyota autos are. It is 6th Generation Celica (one with 4 separate headlights)
The car is a grey import by the way ( I am not sure if transmissions differ to UK spec Celica.)
it is my intention to change fluid every service, as it is a relatively simple operation and I hope will extend gearbox life greatly.
The dipstick is stamped Dexron II.
I notice most of the fluid on the motorfactors shelves is now Dexron III, which from doing some research is an "enhanced specification" fluid compared to Dexron II.
From what I can see Dexron III is only marginally more expensive than II, by the way.
III has supposedly better restsistance to degradation, oxidation, and thermal stability, and it holds its viscosity better at higher temperatures.
My question is thus.......
Can I use Dexron III instead of II, as it sounds a better/superior product - will there be any advantages to this ?
Or indeed because it is an older transimission designed with Dexron II in mind I should stick with Dexron II because the newer fluid will cause problems/poor shifting because the fluid properties are slightly different ? Read more
well?
Where do they get their cars from apart from auctions, I have been scouring major auction sites checking and numerous cars have been popping up on autotrader that werent at auctions, does anyone know where they get the cars from, as I want to cut out the middleman ;) Read more
I've noticed a bit of a swing back to auctions recently - the major players (BCA and Manheim) have been fighting back a bit and picking up contracts from some of the larger dealer groups to take all their PX's as a job lot. As individual independent dealers decline an increasing number of dealers have to follow whatever the group policy is with regard to disposing of unwanted stock - whether it via an auction chain or swapping around withing the group rather than bunging a nice PX out to a friendly local dealer in exchange for a quick deal and some nice gifts at Christmas time (and, dare I say it, maybe the odd bung under the table in some cases).
A friend of mine has got a fiesta, it is on a p-plate.
The problem is that the heater will not blow warm air.
He has changed the thermostat, he has flushed the system out but still the hot water is only getting as far as the matrix but not coming back out.
Any Ideas would be great.
Cheers in advance.
Mark Read more
Cheers for the information.i will pass it on.
Thanks
Mark
My whole windscreen is covered in paint specs from when I had a door resprayed. I've tried everything to get rid of them. Would using paint thinner be ok? As long as I was careful not to get it all over the body work? Read more
I think I've come across as a bit of an idiot in this post! I'm not, but have to put my hands up to being a bit (read: very) lazy.
Hi, can some of you tell me if the Freelander TD4 is any good?
Do they have reliability issue? Do they use a BMW diesel engine?
And if you think they are rubbish what mini 4x4 do you recommend?
Thanks
Mark.. Read more
Maybe the newer ones are sorted.
I've worked in the motor trade for all 26 years of my working life, starting in a garage as an apprentice in 1980. I worked there for 15 years until 1995 when I left to work for a motoring organisation as a patrol. I was an MOT tester from 1985 - 1995, and conducted countless tests on cars and light vans.
Can someone please explain to me why it is necessary to rev a diesel engine from idle right up to the governor, hold it for a second and let it fall again, and do this 5 or 6 times to measure exhaust smoke? What exactly is it trying to achieve? Nobody, and I mean nobody ever drives their car under these conditions, and revving an engine like this makes me cringe especially when there's no load on it. The test alone must take many miles off the life expectancy of the engine, and to me it's completely unnecessary. If someone wants to rev their engine up in this way then good luck to them, but I'd rather they didn't do it on mine. I like to look after my car, not let some MOT tester {wording changed, as the tester is only following VOSA guidelines - DD} rruin it in this way.
Surely a better test would be to gently increase engine speed to about 2500rpm and hold it for about 10 seconds, and measure exhaust smoke this way.
Over to you....... Read more
Just discovered this forum. Totally agree with all comments referring to crankshaft oscillation/frequency etc. The advent of dual mass flywheels has played a big part in assessing the aforementioned when designing an engine. The principle of a dual mass can be likened to a shock absorber on the suspension as they both have similar functions in 'protecting' their associated components and providing a smoother cabin environment. Replacement of dual mass flywheels is an integral part of a clutch replacement and is very expensive. Some workshops are saving their customers money by installing cheaper solid flywheels. This is a definite NO NO as this introduces a serious risk of the crankshaft fracturing due to the 'shock absorber' being removed. We have it on good authority that crankshaft breakages are not uncommon when dual mass is substituted with solid. BEWARE!
This has no relevance to smoke emissions so I wonder why it has been posted. Does the poster sell DMFs by any chance?
Hi, I am looking at buying a Zafira 2.0dti 2003/2004, is it any good and also someone told me they don't have a timing belt but they do have a timing chain which does not changing as often, is this true?
Cheers.. Read more
plenty of torque and pulls fantastically for
a big car >>
It's all relative I suppose.
i just nipped to the local shop which is just around the corner, went into the shop came out tried to drive off and the steering was very hard to turn?
do you think the pump has gone or any ideas what else could be the problem?
i drove the van back about 100 meters home and opened the bonnet,looks like there is steering fluid spitting out of the top of where you top up the fluid out of a small pin hole in the middle of the cap?
any advice would be great,before i set the thing alight and make my life stress free ;) please! Read more
circlip, thats probably wot's come adrift maybe you can be lucky and refit all ok and top up with oil?
Hi
My fiat punto sport active is a 52 plate.
When i drive along the thermostate keeps moving up and down....from half way point to just b4 the red, it doesnt actually go into the red.... just near it... then drops again, the inside heating is also intimitant as well...sometimes its ok... but when its doing its overheating thing the hot air does not work....
Could this be a head gaskett going? the start of?
Or the thermostate stuck open? Or a hole in the housing?
Had a similar prob with a BMW ... that turned out to be the therostate.... but caused the headgasket to go eventually b4 the problem was identified...
If i catch a head gaskett going b4 it actually does... is it expensive to fix??
I go to a garage and get my bits done on the car and a windscreen wiper motor and arm plus fitting and a new blade they charged me £174... i never quiet know if im getting stung by them..... thought i might report them to rough trader... !!
Any advise? What should i do? And how much should i expect it to cost do you think? Read more
bagpuss34 did he not pressure test your water system then?
this is my first port of call to identify any possible leaks,
bad show on his part in my opinion im afraid. :-(
My wifes 2001 Pug 206 3 door, Central locking is playing up.
Whenever the doors or boot are used, the instrument panel says the Right Hand Front door is open, yet its closed and also the others are closed. Then if I try locking it, it locks then unlocks. But locks after a few attempts.
Any clues ??
Read more
I've had another go of getting the lock mechanism out of the door without success.
I've no problem in removing the sliding clip holding the barrel to the door, etc.
But I cannot get to the point where I can remove the rods from the mechanism (Twisting and Turning into position). Also I cannot remove the multiplug from the mechanism, because I cant find a retaining clip of some sort like you see on most multiplugs.
I think as already mentioned the multiplug connection may have corrosion in its terminals causing the central locking fault and error message on the display telling me the r/h door is open.
Any tips, apart from using a hacksaw to cut the rods and then reweld them when refitting the mechanism.
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Most Auto transmissions have magnets and filters inside the sump which should be cleaned and or replaced(in the case of the filter) at the required service interval.