October 2019
Ongoing since July, rac said fuel filter, replaced, Garage said maf sensor, replaced, another garage said no its instrument cluster, repaired, none have fixed it whatsoever so had a 4th person put it on diagnostics yet again & came up with the following
fuel rail pressure sensor circuit high input
Intake high temperature circuit high input
Crankshaft Position sensor A circuit malfunction
Crankshaft Position sensor A circuit intermittent
Now before I just replace the sensors as I have been told to do surely wiring etc etc needs to be checked first no?
Undriveable as either doesnt start, bucks like a kangaroo, seems to jump start itself mid driving or just doesn't start, lack of throttle sporadically & stinks of fuel
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So my better half has a Ford cmax 1.8 petrol on 57 plate. It was overdue a service so took it to our usual mechanic and asked him to give to do full service and check over as we want to maintain it well.
Around £700 later for numerous issues and we went to pick the car up. The mechanic said ...all sorted but it still has that little hiccup when its running so I might need it back...
I thought nothing of this and went over to the car.
My mrs loves that car and straight away she knew there was something wrong. It took two attempts to start and idled quite low but I gave reassurance and she gave it some revs and 5 minutes later we were home.
As we pulled up the car revs dropped and the engine cut out. The car now takes 3 or 4 long key turns to get going and idles low enough to cut out every time.
The car started first time every time before and idled just fine as well.
Its like we have got a different car back. Rang the mechanic, he said he was worried as it had been on diagnostic and nothing had shown up, he said the old oil was really thick and there wasn't much of it so the newer oil might have found a weakness. This could be a valve so might mean the top off the block or worst case a new engine.
Any suggestions of something less costly than a new engine would be greatly appreciated. I was hoping it could be a sensor or hose but have virtually no mechanical experience.
The mrs is not happy.
Apart from the obvious what should I do? Read more
I'm presuming this is the mazda engine as used in earlier models? if so I would get your mechanic to check the pipe from the pcv valve under the inlet manifold, these are prone to splitting and give the symptoms you describe, horrible job to replace.
Evening All,
I have the above vehicle as a project car and I am experiencing issues with starting and running the engine. It started with rough idling, loss of power then cutting out and refusing to start. It is a complicated tail and have posted on specialist forum but not really got a definitive guide on what to do next. These engines are a BMW M51 direct injection, 6 cylinder, timing chain with a fuel injection pump modulated off timing chain. Very complicated computer systems involved on these cars. ... Read more
Morning all,
Sorry for late reply been off sick and thanks for tips. ...
I'm currently looking for a second car.
I cannot believe how many sellers on EBay and auto trader say its their own car and have only had it for a month or so and all the excuses under the roof about needing now to sell it.... Read more
There is no "limit" as such.
The old "6" myth comes from the fact that Autotrader used to force you to trade rates if you advertised 6 cars in a year with them. ...
Is it possible to get the car loans with bad credit score. How much credit score is needed to get the car loan with low-interest rates. Read more
As has been explained in previous posts the score means nothing. Lenders use different criteria to assess loan applications. A low score just means you are less of a target for marketing campaigns.
All you can do is apply and see if you get approved. Of course if you are bankrupt and have 20 CCJs you may struggle to borrow money.
Sub £1,000 motoring is the bottom end of the market, where funds are tight and good pickings slim. It can however be very rewarding though for the extreme Bangernomics devotee. Best if you’ve a bit of motoring knowledge but doable for those without.
Buying worthy cars for a few hundred quid means removing fashion or prestige from your mindset, your money will go further with cars that are unfashionable and unwanted. Forget anything flash or high performance, it’ll be a total money pit that much you can almost guarantee.
Stick with simple mass market models and be prepared to be flexible. A tidy Honda Accord could cost less to run than a tatty Fiesta despite being dearer to tax and fuel because it never costs you in repairs. Don’t go in with a fixed make, model or size of car in mind if you can, you need to be flexible.
I’m not going to break down a list of cars based on size as again you need more flexibility to get ultra cheap motoring right but here’s a wee list of cars I’ve sold and run at this end of the spectrum that’ve proven cost effective and reliable.
Ford Fiesta Mk V 1.25/1.4 petrol
Ford Focus Mk I 1.6 petrol
Ford Mondeo Mk III 1.8/2.0 petrol
Honda Jazz Mk I
Honda Civic 01-05
Honda Accord petrol
Kia Picanto
Mitsubishi Colt
Mitsubishi Carisma (avoid the GDi)
Mazda 3 petrol
Mazda 6 petrol
Toyota Yaris
Toyota Corolla
Toyota Avensis
Volvo S40/V40
Nissan Micra 1.0/1.2/1.4 petrol
Nissan Note petrol
Vauxhall Astra 1.4/1.6 petrol
It’s quite possible in fact to run a car for free or very near, well if you don’t include the fuel and road tax but the actual cost of the car itself. I’ve done it many times in the past.
Thinking of a good example I came up with an old family friend who comes to me for cars when required. She hates spending money on them and doesn’t go very far in it.
99-V Toyota Avensis 1.8 SE I bought myself for £1250 and sold after 3yrs to her for £850 then she ran it for just over a further 3yrs before scrapping. 6yrs reliable use and no major failures until it finally popped a head gasket, not bad for £1250. Total depreciation cost per year £208
2002-52 VW Passat 1.9 TDi SE Bought for £400 to replace above and intended to be a temporary measure until I found something better but it went on to last for over 2yrs until rot got the better of it. Cost per year less than £200
99-V Toyota Corolla 1.3 S 5dr bought as another stopgap replacement for the above. Paid £360 with 3mths Mot and almost 2yrs later it’s still going. Depreciation cost to date £180 per year.
1999-T VW Polo 1.4 CL 5dr bought for new driver daughter for £1,700. Ran for approximately 4yrs before being scrapped due to an accumulation of minor Mot failures. Scrapped for £100, depreciation cost £400 a year.
2006- 56 Chevrolet Kalos 1.2S 3dr bought for £1,000 to replace above. Bit tatty but went well. Lasted 3yrs before someone ran into it and she got £1,200 for it! £200 profit after 3yrs.
2005-55 Nissan Micra 1.2 SE 3dr bought for £1200 to replace above. Been faultless and still looks good over 3yrs later. Cost to date approximately £133 a year as I figure it’s still worth £800 all day.
Try to think on how much money this family have saved over the years compared to a new or newer car on finance, PCP or lease and they’ve never been left stranded anywhere. They don’t worry about where they park and instead of paying a constant monthly payment they enjoy their regular foreign holidays instead. I don’t profit from them, it’s almost a hobby to see just how cheaply I can keep them on the road. I’m looking forward to a call to go looking again but that old Corolla just won’t die.
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Great advice - as always. Just wondering why you don't include the 1.8 and 2.0 engines for the Focus when you suggest them for a Mondeo. I had 1.8 Focus, which used virtually no oil at 100,000 miles and was trouble free.
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Brilliant review, love your style. Original Juke was horribly ugly. Remarks about engine would put off a lot of people. Read more
1.5 million people didn't chose a Juke because they thought it was ugly.
After having accepted £5 million funding from the UK government as a contribution towards his company developing an electric car - Dyson then ran away to Singapore and bought an upmarket penthouse - it's true he has only drawn £2 million of that funding but surely he would have known then that it would be unlikely that his company could compete with the major car brands with his EV? Read more
No manufacturer can cut any respectable profit out of EVs. A BMW board member let that slip last autumn, bemoaning the fact that their will never be a cheap, useful EV, which turns a satisfactory profit like an ICE car
The supply chain for batteries, especially the price of cobalt, is where madness lies. With ICE cars, an engine is cast, cheap fluids added, and customer pays for the 'power supply' of fuel. EV manufacturing turns all that on it's head, with pressure to provide more range, faster charging times, more batteries, less heat, etc etc. ...
Never liked the Renault 17 but that Montego is something I’ve fond memories of. I flogged loads of them in the 90’s and rust aside had not one bit of bother.
They were much better cars than their reputation suggested, all drove well and they were actually pretty well made once you got past the 1987 facelift. Shame they didn’t rust treat the things properly.
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It was a testament to truly dreadful design that an otherwise slick VW gearbox dropped into a Montego ended up as spongy and stubborn as the one I remember on a family Maxi a decade earlier. It seemed to be an Austin curse - the Marina and the big Rovers were blessed with manual Triumph units.
The dashboard on mine developed a nasty split and squeaked and rattled from day one. I spent a fortune on indicators when one split and another one fell out right before the MoT. A third one was actually stolen in a cinema car park, presumably to help another Montego driver get his beast through the MoT!
But the coin tray and the remote boot release were useful. Best overall feature was probably the backlit column stalks - a rarity even today.
Hi looking at a 2017 MK7 facelift Golf for the mother in law. Found a local 2.0TDi on a 17 plate 35000 miles with the auto box. Any views on this gearbox? General issues wit this car ? Read more
^^ as above, those gearboxes alone are a bargepole job.
No starting and jerking could be related to the crank position sensor. I would replace this first,and also check the connector to it.