After our last car, a Peugeot, broke down (cam belt) we are looking to get a reliable car within a tight budget around the £8,000-9,000 mark.

My partner does a round trip commute of 100 miles a day (on A roads) 5 days a week. We are looking for something nearly new (given the last car we had didn't last very long) and with a warranty. This is why the Kia C'eed has appealed with its 7 year warranty. It also sounds like a good car for commuting, particularly the 1.6 diesel. Any thoughts? ... Read more

Hi all, a 3rd party recently reversed into my wife's car and their insurance has accepted responsibility. The damage is minor, but the car is one of the rare paints MG Rover offered through their Monogram range, so not only is the paint expensive, its also hard to match to the existing car, so repair cost is high.

Now, the insurance company have said that my valuation of the car is far above theirs (not surprising, they didn't take the rarity or the desirability of the special nature of the paint into account - cars painted in the same paint can attract £1.5k - £2K above book price) and they've said they're going to get an independent assessor to value the car.... Read more

In a very similar situation to this poster here (www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/117250/comfortable) as I have just started a job with a ~150 mile round trip commute. I've got a 59 plate Corsa at the moment that's coming up to 100k miles. It blew up a few days ago with a head gasket problem (I think - garage is still checking) so I'm thinking about my options.

Either invest in a better car for this kind of journey - I would like a hatchback style so something like a Focus, Golf, i30, looking at nearly new (17-18). Willing to spend up to £15k but £12k would be preferable. This would work out around £200-250 per month for five years.... Read more

Hello all.
I have had an infuriating electrical problem with my Toyota Yaris since November 2018.
Whilst driving the engine management light together with airbag light,water in fuel and charging light illuminated. The heater motor ceased to work together with the direction indicators. The heated rear window light illuminated whichever position the switch was in.
I took it into Toyota dealership who had the car for three days and told me it was fixed.
I picked the car up and it lasted two weeks and about a 1000 miles when the same problem appeared.
Back to Toyota who had the car for a week and could not find the problem.
Except for wanting £600 for a new alternator.
Now I refused this.
And decided to trace wiring myself as it was now blowing the gauge fuse
Replace the fuse and sometimes it would be ok for a couple of weeks or immediately blow.
I know this is long winded but.
I found out that the reversing light wire which goes from the gearbox switch to a junction behind the engine and gearbox was shorting out this wire joins another wire in the depths of the wiring loom which is the alternator indication light.
Now I have since replaced the wire to the back of the gearbox revrouted the reversing light wire and put that on a separate fuse to an ignition live.
Problem sorted!!!!
So anyone with a Toyota which is blowing the gauge fuse should look at the reversing light circuit
I think had I returned it to Toyota they would have wanted to fix a new wiring loom.
I hope this helps someone as I was going to scrap the car and now have it back to total reliability. Read more

Ré Beam Benders

DRLs as currently fitted are dangerous.

The OP may have seen them used in poor visibility and at dusk; I have seen them being used as the only source of light as late as 1am on badly lit roads, and at 80+mph in thick fog on the M6.

Does someone have to be killed or seriously injured before any public body takes notice?? Read more