March 2016
Hi there.. Time to buy a new set of summer tires for my Citroen C3 1.4 HDi (2011).
Until now i had Bridgestone Turanza ER300 (which came with the car).... Read more
Hi all, my brakes have had a lot of work done over the past couple of weeks. New discs and pads on the front and (I quote this from the garage invoice) "stripping, freeing + rebuilding rear brakes and front callipers".
This evening I was driving a very windy and steep road around the local cliffs when my brake pedal sunk all the way to the floor without doing anything. Luckily there was nothing in front. I was able to throw it into second and with a few pumps of the pedal, the braking was restored. This happened another 3 times on the way home, but I crawled it back. There's no barriers on the road to stop you plunging a long way down and needless to say, my trousers are in the wash!
About 10 minutes before this, I had stopped for petrol. When I pulled away and sped up to 40mph, the engine vibrated a lot through the pedals and steering wheel. This lasted for a few miles. I've also recently had a new exhaust and a small hole in the manifold was also fixed, so I put the vibrations down to the manifold hole not being completely plugged, but this wouldn't affect the brakes I assume?
Also I started to get paranoid that the steering felt a lot looser than usual. I've since read that the brakes and power steering share the same fluid on some cars?
Anyone have any ideas? I'm thinking that the brake lines weren't bled properly after the work was carried out? The mechanic isn't at work until Wednesday, so you have until then to convince me not to beat him to death with a rusty spanner.... Read more
If they pumped the pedal to bleed the brakes it's probably damaged the seals in the master cylinder.
On an old car, the bore of the cylinder will get a lip caused by wear. If the piston is pushed past the normal travel this lip can damage the seal and then it can let by.
I have a 407 2.0 petrol auto 06 . When slowing down to a junction or roundabout if the car does not stop completely and you try to pull away the engine does not respond ,sometimes nearly stalling then suddenly it kicks in and you can carry on . This is very dangerous at roundabouts if trying to pull out in traffic. As there is no workshop manual available for this car which is PETROL I am at a loss as to what to check . Can anyone help please. ???
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I bought this car in May 2011, from the main dealer. it was 12 months old. I have had numerous problems with the car, and repairs etc, have been done under the 5 year warranty.
The car had done about 57K miles, in April 2010, when I found that the car would not start on one crank of the engine from cold, say about 12 deg. C.... Read more
Glow plugs are very easy to test, and so no excuses there. The glow plug on moden car are unlikely to be linked directly to the glow plugs more likey the ECU. This is dues to some cars using the glow plugs while the car is running but cold.
A total non sart at 12 degrees is very unlikely to be a glow plug issue, look else where for better advice....
Hi all,
I would like some opinions on my issue which has arisen on my Peugeot 206 1.4L Look 8v petrol.
Firstly I've had nothing but trouble with my Pug. Firstly I had constant misfires which no one would resolve. I was always told it was the coil pack and no one would do anything (annoying), so I did some research and then changed all 4 fuel injectors myself and now that's solved that issue.
But now that issue has been resolved, when starting, whether the engine is cold or at optimum temperature, the car appears to have a misfire for roughly 30 seconds - seems to tie in with the automatic choke. Once the choke kicks in, the car is as smooth as anything. However, if I try to drive before the idle sorts itself out the car kangaroos. So in essence the revs fluctuate and the car is very jolty and sometimes no power at all for a few seconds until the choke kicks in.
So for the above issue, I thought it may be the MAP sensor, so I disconnected it and started, the car started fine. Reconnected it, kangaroos again. So I had a spare second hand on which was taken off my other working 206 but the issue persists.
So I was lead to believe it was the Lambda sensor. So the issue relates to the switch inside being turned on and off with the temperature with the exhaust.
The car has done 100,000 miles. Had a service in December. Fresh coil pack in January.
Any ideas? Could it be the MAP sensor or the Lambda Sensor? Or even the ideal control valve?
Thanks for reading,
Bradley Read more
You could throw parts at the problem all day and be no wiser. You need a Peugeot Planet diagnostic when its cold as that can read the live data at all key components and sensors and will give you an idea where the problem might be,
Google "Peugeot Planet Map" to find a network of competent Peugeot owners with the kit who'll be able to help you. They're not mechanics or garages so have no vested interest in recommending parts you won't need.
I have the engine electrics/transmission electrics light on my dash every time I start my car, which puts it in to limp mode. If I turn the ignition off and then on again it clears and the car drives Ok....ish. It can be a little sluggish in low gears. This has been going on for so long now it is driving me mad. Once the petrol in the car gets to around 30 miles left the light stops coming on, however as soon as I fill up again the light starts coming on again. I have had the car put on diagnostics and it comes up with throttle body, however the mechanic cleaned this up and it has made no difference. I have had the fuel pump changed and a new coil pack fitted. No difference. It's supposedly had a full service, however, I was told that the fuel filter wasn't changed by another mechanic so I suppose it's quite possible that other things weren't done either. I do a lot of short journeys and have been told it could be the head gasket, not really convinced by that. When I take the car on longer journeys the exhaust emission light comes on which again makes the car lose power. I would really appreciate any input. Read more
Ok, scrap that, still no closer to finding out what it may be. I was told it might get be the lambda sensor as it came up as a code but that was cleared and didn't come back up, the light is still on. I've been told whoever did my service didn't do the job properly at all, we know for sure the fuel filter and air filter weren't done at all. Possibles are now that it could be a clogged exhaust and/or the filler cap isn't the right one for the car and doesn't create a tight enough seal. So I have a new locking filler cap on order and will have to get the exhaust looked at. Any other advice would be massively appreciated feels like I'm just throwing money at it.
Hi
My Toyota corolla 2006 MMT auto gear making trouble. It does not change correct time/speed. Rev goes very much up when accelerate after slowing or turning in rounder board. A Gear mechanic in my region told to change flywheel, clutch and release bearing which cost around £1000. Otherwise it is good car. How relaiable auto gear repair? Is it worth to repair? ... Read more
Use the search function on here (The back room archive) to look for Toyota MMT problems and you'll find a lot of information about it.
I am completely disillusioned with modern belt and chain driven overhead camshaft designs. Motor manufacturers just cannot seem to design a maintenance free system and often end up designing in disastrous weaknesses, e.g. VAG.
Old pushrod ohv designs were supposedly superseded in the 70's because of the introduction of high rpm short stroke designs.... Read more
Well thank you Madf for that information which is both interesting and certainly difficult to counter argue.
It was only a spurious thought that I thought might be worth discussing beyond the usual dreary topics such as "which car should I buy" (almost always a toyota or "the same as mine" seems to be the standard reply). I realised it would provoke the sidevalve jokes etc. but as an electronics designer in my previous life, I do think it good occasionally to think out of the box instead of the usual humdrum evolve slowly approach....
Hi
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Well that went well.
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Hi guys this is the data from my recent mot failure only thing to fail and no one can say why quick history car has done 155k but very clean no visable oil leaks however adding 1 lt a month or every 1000 miles blows some smoke blueish when revved hard fuel consumption is 35 mpg average engine sounds fine no rattles etc ok
Engine oil temp: 60.00 coolant pipes hot... Read more
cheers guys right update
engine flush done ...
I just bought those tires. First impression that they are soft, comfortable and a lot of grip.
Let's hope this first positive impressions would be long term :)...