February 2016

Warning

When I ask dealers how much they can knock off. They usually say about £200 and sometimes £500. Is that the going rate for negotiation?.

How do people negotiate with car dealers. Some seem disinterested. Others play hardball.

Is better to go to second tier car dealers?

... Read more

Ian_SW

Alternative but similar version I use as follows:

1) Find the same car on Motorpoint's (or other similar car supermarket) website....

Warning

I currently have a Nissan Primera - hatchback.

I noticed that a lot of manufacturers are not making a family sized hatchbacks. Except for Ford Mondeo and Vauxhall Insignia. ... Read more

groaver

Yes, many larger ones are now going back to saloons (probably to rival the German marques to make them 'upmarket' [read expensive to buy]), but again, as other have said, MPVs and crossover vehicles have more than filled the void, and are often more practical for families and useful for transporting granny and grandad around as they have higher up seats making it easier to get in/out of the car.

I also think manufacturers just don't sell the big cars in sufficient numbers to justify having so many (costly) variants in body shape, plus big cars are difficult to park (spaces haven't grown, but car sizes have) and thus are less popular apart from those with money....

hotFart

Folks, first time on here, I thought I'd get my thoughts into one thread and see what the collective knowledge on here can suggest.

Picked up my 04 Estate as a runabout whilst I took my Golf off the road last year. It's just about to hit 110k, runs fine, but I'm quite OCD regarding my cars running right. ... Read more

Gibbo_Wirral

Instead of throwing parts and money at a problem, maybe consider a diagnostic check.

Even though there's no warning lights on the dash, decent diagnostics kit will measure the readings of key sensors and components and give an indication of where the problem might be.

Davidfrance

I soon need to buy 4 new summer tyres for my Audi A4 avant 3.0 v6 245bhp Tdi Quattro (july 2012) and would like to know which summer tyres you would recommend for this car, given the following :

- Purchase price is NOT my first consideration.... Read more

Big John

My personal preference - Michelin or Continental tyres , usually perform and last well - Fantastic on numerous long continental runs at higher speeds

On my 2003 Superb I got 30+k out of the above but 18k from the original fit Brigestones . ...

Studo11

Hi, i know there are a lot of threads out there on this but almost too many to make sence of them all lol, i have recently bought a nissan micra 52 plate off of a 'friend' that said it broke down then re started once now just wont start at all, it tries to but will not fire, i have replaced the battery and spark plugs and checked that they are sparking blue, also have changed the oil, oil filter air and fuel filter as a service was 4 years overdue :/ any help would be great thanks, stuart Read more

elekie&a/c doctor

You will need to try to restore compression,otherwise it will never start.Remove the spark plugs and pour approx 1 tablespoon of engine oil down each bore.Leave for a few hours,then refit the plugs.try to start the car.You may need to give it near full throttle for it to fire.

iamnicolas

Hello guys, i am looking for a used automatic car around £6000. I am thinking to buy a fiat 500 dualogic but i head there are a lot of problems with the dualogic gearbox. I really like the car though and i think it looks 10 times better than my other options: Fiesta, Corsa.

Any idea on the dualogic? Advice? Read more

iamnicolas

The ds3 has a torque converter auto!

VR6FAN

I have a 63 plate Leon FR Diesel on a contract hire and would like to extend my contract as I am pefectly happy with the car but am told by the broker I arranged my contract through that this is not possible. They also advise that I cannot purchase the car at the end of the contract.

I had a 3 year contract with a mileage limit of 51000 miles. The contract is up in September this year and at present the mileage is well under target at just over 34000 miles - my employment circumstances changed 18 months in to the contract and I am now lucky enough to walk to work whereas previously I had been doing up to 17000 miles a year on business and personal driving.... Read more

Falkirk Bairn

Contracts have different conditions and are setup differently at the Leasing Company to suit the Leasing Company's treatment of tax on their income & assets.

...

Dave D.

Hello. First post, so hi all :)

I am looking to buy my first car and I’ve settled on Renault Clio 3 door 2010 model. As far as I’m aware it’s best to buy early April, as the reg plates are getting changed. I am looking to buy from a dealer, not private, because it is likely that I will need to use a credit card. I realise this will be tad more expensive, but I don’t feel confident enough buying private.... Read more

Dave D.

Thanks for the tips. I was going not to exceed 20-30 miles from where I live (Leeds). Good points about reg-platye change rush. I use totalcarcheck.co.uk to check the car history!

chesterfieldhouse

Hello, l would welcome forum members opinion on the merits of a Mercedes E class estate car (auto); as we need a vehicle with a big boot. l'm looking at an (approx') 7/8 year old model & undecided as to the 2.1, 2.7 or even the 3 litre diesel engine. looking at the data, in terms of the economy etc; there doesn't seem to be much between them.

The sensible option would be perhaps a VW Passat 2 litre estate, in terms of an all round estate however, l really fancy a Merc'. Read more

mengl

....from an article written in 2005! The E Class is still THE German taxi of choice.

pelethar

Currently have a 2010 (60 reg) black A4 estate, diesel stop/start 2.0L model. Guess probably worth £9k ish now (70k miles, FSH).

Considering swapping for a petrol estate car as the diesel is not working in our favour in terms of economy, with most use being short trips. ... Read more

Cyd

As other correspondents have pointed out, the OP needs to know that if (s)he is mostly making short commuting-type journeys then no engine (no matter what fuel or type) will ever give its best in terms of performance, economy or longevity. As oil adverts have pointed out for many years (think Castrol) the vast majority of engine wear occurs when the engine is cold. Also, when cold, engines use fuel enrichment to give smooth running and reasonable performance. Also the conversion of heat into motive power cannot happen efficiently until the engine is warm.

However, under these operating conditions a petrol engine is likely to perform better overall than a diesel, particularly a modern diesel. This is primarily for two reasons. A petrol engine usually has less material in the engine than a diesel of similar capacity - this helps the engine warm up quicker. Also, a petrol engine, is not as efficient overall (ie energy content to motive power conversion) thus there is more 'waste' heat to warm the engine through. Thus, a petrol will warm quicker so it will reach an economic running state sooner and the car will be more comfortable in cold weather as the cabin can be warmed quicker. It also has benefits for the engine longevity. A modern diesel also has other disadvantages under these conditions. The DPF and EGR systems are likely to suffer and are expensive to repair/replace. So, what to get instead? I would make two suggestions, either a Skoda Octavia or Saab 9-3. I have a Saab 9-3 Aero 2.0T, and find on cold mornings that the engine is usually just up to normal temp by about 2 miles from home (easy driving). I rate this as pretty good - my wifes C1 with its tiny 3 cylinder engine takes about 1 1/2 miles. In the Saab, you have a choice of three engines, 1.8t (150hp), 2.0t (175hp) or 2.0T (210hp). The most economic is likely to be the 1.8t, though it's also likely to be a bit pedestrian performance wise. My Aero has a Maptun tune to 270hp/370Nm and can pull a house from little above 2000rpm if you wanted massive urge! Yet will still do 40mpg on the motorway with a light foot at about 70, 30+ round town if similarly careful. You should also be able to find one with heated seats - again a big help on those short journeys in the winter months. For what your Audi is worth, you should be able to find a late built example (2010-2011) and maybe even pocket some change - with Saabs demise secondhand values have fallen and you can get an awful lot of car for your money. I have no direct experience of the Octavia, but am eyeing up the VRS 230 as a replacement for the Saab in a few years. For your purposes, as suggested, you might prefer to look at a 1.4TSi. There are a couple of people at work who have them and they seem very pleased. I've ridden as a passenger in a diesel VRS DSG and thought it very good. Another point: gearbox choice? With the Saab it's 6 speed manual or an (torque convertor) automatic. With the Octavia, the auto is DSG. You don't say if your short journeys are through slow traffic, but if they are you might be better with an auto (and again I'd suggest the Saab here rather than a DSG) as such driving is hard on the clutch of a manual. At the very least keep an eye on the usual outlets and go and try both cars. Whatever you get, also remember that under your driving cycle oil changes are your friend (especially for engine longevity). Follow HJs advice and change twice a year. Also don't forget the gearbox - change it at least once soon after you get it. Similarly, the brake fluid and coolant. For winter use, you might want to consider an engine pre heater.