April 2013

Drivethru

Is it worth buying genuine ink cartridges or are the remanufactured ones ok. Just wondered what experience others have had. Read more

freman

Ihave a H.P Photosmart c 4380 & for about 4 years now & have been using replacement cartridges supplied by Choice Stationary of Taunton.

So far I have had 1 duff cartridge, so I E Mailed them & the replacement arrived by 1st class post the next day with a return envelope & apologies....

Craigh

Back again, same problem,

New air flter, new diesel filter, EGR valve cleaned as it was clogged up.....This problem exists mainly when under load when accelerating up to approx 40 MPH. OK cruising on motorway. Slight loss of power when the black smoke shows it's ugly face and very embarrasing in the London low emission zone!... Read more

Deanspy

I have a Kia Sorento 2.5 diesel 2005 model 195000km with a similar problem. This all started after I had air-conditioner problems and the dealer changed every component until it worked. €1650 later, my air-conditioner now works and my car now produces black smoke since then it seems. It could be coincidental. I feel like James Bond on the freeway just without the Austin Martin. My SUV makes lots of black smoke when I switch OFF the air-conditioner. When I switch the Aircon ON it miraculously stops. How strange is that.. The engine runs more smoother as well. Have it in at the dealer, but not very hopefully. I noticed a couple of earlier post with similar problems. Did any of you guys get to the bottom of this? Where should we start looking, fixing, changing.

ffolliott

Whilst driving at 25mph suddenly lost all automatic gears and car coasted to the side of the road - moving gear lever made no difference in any position - engine was still running. Turner off and tried a restart and engine would not turn over (turning key has no effect) - power ok as lights etc come on. Transmission fluid level ok. Moving gear lever now seems to have no resistance as if not connected to anything.

Old car - but was running ok daily prior to this but had developed slow pickup on acceleration over past 18 months.... Read more

ffolliott

Sound advice thanks - car now working again (not worked on an automatic before). After removing the console could see that the rubber/plastic retaining washer had split and the gear linkage arm had just dropped off. Looks like this arm is just a push fit with this washer and there is no retailng pin/circlip - could not see one and not shown in Haynes.

Anyway secured a refitting of the arm and all ok - so many thanks again

part-timer

After some advice on a 307 likely fuel pump failure. Had a total loss of power and now car won't start, AA recovery guy did some tests on voltage, fuse etc to the low pressure pump and that all looks ok but when removing the fuel pipe feed to filter there was no fuel being fed from the tank. His diagnosis, largely confirmed by reading others experiences is that the in-tank low pressure pump has failed.

Where my concerns begin is that when searching for a replacement part, some of the in-tank units for that part seem to just be sender units rather than integrated pump and sender unit. Can anyone advise on this? I've included as much info as I hope will be needed below but car is outside and will provide any other info as required for anyone that can help.

Car: 2002 (52) HDI 90 2.0 307 Rapier
Fuel System: VDO/Siemens
In tank pump part number: 9632759780 (221.824/085/001)
Mileage: just under 140k (a fault free 140k as well!)

Over the last couple of weeks there has been some hesitancy under accelleration and there was a vibrating sound behind the drivers seat for last couple of days but I've kind of put that down to something rattling and not impending doom. When turning key to ignition, there is no 'priming' sound from the 'pump' - my question I guess is whether this part is indeed a pump/sender unit or just a sender unit and I've a potentially more costly failure elsewhere. Read more

dogdays

Does anyone know why my Ford does not store the fault codes. It overhaeated a year ago and an warning lamp plus overheat message came up on the dashboard but the Ford agent said no codes stored.

Today it shut down to low power when booting it up a hill, and gave a "engine system failure warning" plus a red light. I stopped and the engine then restarted perfectly. I expect it was EGR, but yet again when I connect up with the laptop no fault code was stored. Is this normal for Fords of that period? Read more

grumpy phil

does this car have a DPF fitted? Read more

mouton

As I've mentioned before... I don't get out much in my car. Recently it's started doing something odd (and slightly terrifying) whenever I accelerate to get onto the M-way.

The car is fine up to 50mph, and the pedal doesn't stick when accelerating up to or at those speeds. But when I'm putting on a little extra to get up to 60 or 70 (it's a weedy 1.4), it gets stuck to the floor. What then ensues is my mild heart-attack/panic while the engine goes, "Sqeeeeeeee," and then I tap the brakes... which seems to make it pop up again.... Read more

MikeTorque

Yeah, my kind of solution.

Hope you find something good to replace it with.

ian1986

am wondering if anyone can help i was driving it fine on wednesday night and all of a sudden on thursday morning it wouldnt start. it wasnt coming up an F on the dashboard just wouldnt start in neutral so i got a someone out and he done a dianostic test on it and said its the auto g/box serial data invalid. I hope it wont come at an expensive cost and i have to scrap the car. Anyone had any similar problems or can help thanks. Read more

youngimp

Hi, iv got got a ford fiesta 1.25 W Reg and recently the car has struggled a few times trying to go into 3rd gear from 4th when having to slow down.

... Read more

youngimp

Reverse is fine and it refuses to go in 1st then goes in after but very slugish, does not grind

gumski

Hi there,

Sorry to raise this old subject again, I've read all the posts I can find on here without a solution. The ign key no longer wants to turn so I need to get the barrel out. I have no pin hole to poke a paperclip in, I can't see any circlips, there is an indented 'hole' on top of the barrel housing but it is solid so no go. I have read on here the barrel is held in by a silver cap that is crimped over the barrel and this seems to be what I have, question is, how can I remove this cap without causing too much damage? Just to confuse things I live in Spain but the car is a German import.... Read more

Simon

This isn't quite right, Ford keys are cut by reading the code of the old key (this can be done by eye), then the Tibbe machine will cut a new one as it should be. They are not a like for like copy as such. Look it up, it will explain it better all about how Ford keys work.

If you get just a plain key cut, you will be able to see if this solves your problem, with regard to the immobiliser chip in your old key, if you hold it next to the barrel whilst using the new key, the car should still start.