November 2010
My gigaretter lighter no longer works, im assuming its the fuse and the manual only says the fuse box is located under the glove compartment? (no pictures tho) I've taken a look and its definately not 'under' the glove box i.e beneath, and upon googling, theres lots of info on the older modles fuse box, but not mine -, on the older model it was accessed within the glove box? I suspect mine is too and there are some screws, but they appear to be neither phillips or flat head nor allen key?? Any help please, feel stupid going to a garage just for that! Read more
The other day out of the blue my car wouldn't start. If I turn the key to the II position the immobiliser light stays on and now it won't lock using the the central locking system. Also if I try to lock it manually it locks but then immediately unlocks.
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Upon reflection I think that's it. An old battery that is fine for most purposes, but cannot supply the sudden current required, cold, after standing, to fire up the body systems.
I have a problem with my 1.4 tdci:
I drove 4 miles yesterday, loaded the car up with a heavy load (bags of soil & sand), upon returning home the car throttle seemed juddery, seconds later EAC FAIL appeared on the dash and throttle response was non existent, i managed to get the car home very slowly and during the process discovered that as i struggled (i.e no more acceleration) changing up enabled me to go quicker I managed to get up to about 30.
I got home left the car for about 2 hours, I got back in it, in order to drop it off at a mechanic's and the EAC FAIL had gone (I'd literally done nothing to the car), I drove it the 6 miles to the mechanic without any problem (@60mph).
The Car was hooked up to a diagnostic machine today, the ONLY fault that came up was P0606 ECM/PCM FAULT :-( Despite this the Car continues to be fine with no apparent re-ocurrence of EAC FAIL.
The mechanic reckons because of the ecu's postion it could be something as simple as water getting into some of the cables/connections (it has ben very wet/cold lately), he cleaned and sprayed all the leads etc.... Read more
Other than the one incident on Sunday I've had no re-occurence, the car continues to drive as it did before the incident, I would presume and hope that if it was a serious fault, I.e a knacked ECU that the EAC FAIL would be on all the time ?.
I've also discovered that the cost of a new ecu would be £250-£300 is that about right ?.
While driving my Temp Gauge goes from zero upto just over 80 and then drops back down to just above the two white notches at the bottom (far left) of the gauge.
It keeps going up and down like this while I'm driving.... Read more
hi there ive had this problem once and found that the themostat got stuck open ive had mostley caverliers and astras for 15 years 8v engines best to change themostat and also cheak the water pump undo the top of the exspanshion tank cap and watch to c if the water is flowing back to the tank on a small pipe if flowing ok then the pump is working fine if it is returning very slow then the pump could be on its way out because the themostat carnt work propley if the water pump carnt pressurerise the system propley ALL WAYS CHEAK FROM COLD THEN U WONT GET BURNT if not that cheak the little sensour with a cable on the themostat housing these very realy go good luck if get stuck drop me a message i be glad to help u madtaz
i am experiencing loss of engine power with the car, the car just won't pull, very slow to go up hill, sometimes you smell the fuel inside the car. I brought the car to the mecanic, they change the turbo and the intercooler, after that the car reponded but one week later the problem came back. the visit to a second mecanic computer diagnostic found nothing anormal to the car but the problem still there a part the internal temperature and external temperature were funny( -1000 and 2000). I don't know what to do now. can anyone help please. Read more
I changed the EGR and the MAF sensor but the porblem for one day was OK but the next day the problem came back, and there is some noise sound like krieckkrieck when you accelerate, i do not know what to do now? please help.
Hello, would be grateful for any advice. Have just changed the oil in a 2003 Peugeot 406 Hdi. I have used just over 4 litres 15w 40 Castrol GTX also added 300ml of STP for diesel engines Have since found out that Peugeot recommend 5w 40 oil only for Hdi diesel engines. Have driven the car for about 120 miles no probems so far, will I be OK to continue using the car with 15w 40 oil in it or am I likely to do any damage? Thanks for any advice. Regards, Tonyredz.
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I don't think you can do any harm to an old engine this way. Even the oil-pump leaks enough internally to protect it from damage. Let the car warm up slightly longer before you pull away.
I also suspect oil rapidly loses its edge (certainly changes colour) very quickly, so worn oil of the wrong viscosity will do no more harm that new oil of the right viscosity would do.
I'm more interested to know how long it is until I have a 50/50 chance (or maybe 20/80 chance) of snapping the cam belt - I bet it's at least twice the distance that Peugeot promise. Why? Well, they have to deliver 99% reliability in new cars as regards just this one respect, and I'm not operating to their standard.
When you think I have the diesel 2l HDi version, slow-revving and used quite gently I'll probably get a belt-life better than most anyway. I also trust Peugeot enough to think they made sure the pulleys wear out and rattle long before the belt dies. True, at 113,000 miles the whole engine is noisier than it was, but see if I care. The kind of problems I fear on my 2001 model are changing the rear brake pads.
I bought my 05 Landcruiser from a main dealer at 14 months old with less than 10000 miles on the clock. Its now done 65000 miles and been regularly serviced by Toyota. 4 weeks ago the engine suffered a serious failure, whilst travelling at about 70mph it suddenly lost all power, the oil light came on and it rattled big time! I had to get it recovered back to my local Toyota agent who took the engine out and stripped it down. The cause was found to be the copper sealing washers under the injectors, 3 had been letting combustion gases past the seal and so contaminating the oil and over a period of time the carbon had built up on the gauze oil pick up in the sump to the extent that oil could no longer pass through it thus causing a partial seizure. I was then presented with estimates one for new 'short' engine at £5,700 or to rebuild my engine at about £5,200. When asked how they should proceed I suggested they talk to Toyota about a loyalty gesture of some sort which they agreed to do on my behalf. The next day I had a call from the garage to say that Toyota had agreed to cover the cost of a new 'short' engine in full. Apparently they had extended the warranty on that model from 3 to 5 years or 100,000 miles and even though mine is 5 years 7 months old they still agreed to cover the cost in full!! This was a fantastic result for me and all credit to Toyota and my local agent in Colchester but it leaves me wondering, if this is a known fault and I believe it is because they now use aluminium washers, shouldn't they be changed as a matter of course. I knowToyota have had enough bad press with recalls lately but couldn't they be changed discreetly at the time of a service, it could cost them very dearly otherwise. Read more
Hi,
Glad to hear you were lucky that Toyota paid for the repair. Some of us are not so lucky. My 08 Avensis 2.2 diesel had a head gasket failure last year - and toyota refused to pay for the repair!!! They cited it was 'outside' the three year warranty and not serviced by a Toyota dealer - even though it was serviced using Toyota genuine parts by a VAT registered garage. The car was an ex company car from where I work and was purchased from them within the warranty period. I was lucky that my firm provided me with a free secondhand warranty that paid the majority of the bill. That was galling enough but the Toyota dealer was even worse!! They said I needed a water pump at circa £200 + fitting which I declined. Upon inspction by me, there was no sign of a leak and 12 months later its still looking fine. They also reported a low oil level fault on roadtest - which was ok before it went in. The sensor to fix the problem was circa £250 + fitting which I again declined. I did research the oil problem on the net and was advised to change the oil to the correct spec...something I thought the dealer had done. I changed the oil making sure it was correct spec and hey presto!!! problem sorted. So, respect for Toyota and their dealers??? None!!! Buy another Toyota??? NEVER!!!...
After not being able to get out of the drive for a week last year due to snow we bought a set of 4 winter tyres on steel wheels from BMW.
All I can say is wow!! It is a completely different car! I took it out at 7am this morning to try it out and I was able to go everywhere in 3" of snow.... Read more
Neighbour across the road from me has a BMW he struggled to move today.The rears tyres kept spinning.I never had any problems with the VW beetles i had they where rearwheel drive,i used to drive on remoulds with plenty of tread fine in snow and ice.
I wonder if anyone can help?
My car is a Toyota Will Vi, a Japanese import with Yaris mechanicals. It has the 2NZFE 1.3L VVTi engine.... Read more
Have you fused the wire? If not, you are an accident waiting to happen..
Guys at a bit of a loss with this one, done the usual search's on the net without a conclusion. When the cold weather sets in it is a nightmare to start, car has been on diagnostics and no fault codes come up, its a 54 plate with 75k on.
Fuel filter, glow plugs changed, injection cleaner put through as there was excesive black smoke out the back, Clutch was changed last year. Once it starts it runs like a dream with plenty power and then will start all day long, the car is fine starting in warmer weather.... Read more
The ECU needs an engine RPM signal from the crankshaft sensor. It also needs a signal from the camshaft sensor for cylinder identification. There is no need for the high pressure pump to be timed to the engine, but the pressure in the fuel rail should increase quickly when the engine is cranked and reach 10,000kpa and more. When this pressure is reached the ECU will switch the fuel injectors by capacitor discharge. At this point the engine should start.
When you crank the engine do you see white smoke puffing from the exhaust? Fuel is being injected if you do, so that is one easy check you can do yourself.
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Access to the cabin fusebox is from below glovebox ,pass footwell area.remove the plastic underdash panel(2 push on clips),there are 2 quick release screws .this will allow the fusebox to hinge down.Fuse for lighter should be #39,20 amp,yellow.hth