October 2010
I have a 1999 which I have owned for 7yrs+. 12 months ago I started to have an intermittent starting problem which has gradually got worse. The car will start first time for weeks but then sometimes takes about 40+ turns of the key before it fires. When this happens there is no spark at the plugs (lately it has got so bad that sometimes the battery will go flat and I have to jump start it). The crank case sensor, plugs and leads have all been changed and had no effect. Last week an auto electrician examined the car and said he thought it was the ECU, only problem is that the ECU is part no. PO4727158AJ and I am told that this particular ECU cannot be test. Although I have sourced an exact replacement part no. I am told that Chrysler can charge £1000 to reprogramme one of these (I'm waiting for a call from Chrysler to confirm this). As the problem is so intermittent I am not convinced that it is a faulty ECU. It is not worth spending £1200 + as the car is not worth much more, although it does look and run great. Can anyone help please? Read more
has anyone had any problems with the avensis and brake failure? i have a 2008 (last of the old shape) 2.2 diesel. i pulled out a junction today and joined some slow moving traffic. went to put on the brakes and nothing. the pedal moved all the way to the floor. it was as if the brakes were not there. i went up the back of a car, luckily i was only doing about 15-20mph.
went to drive off after we exchanged details and the brakes were back.
any advise appreciated. the car was brought froma Toyota main dealer under there approved used car scheme in 2008 and has been serviced by them.
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Sounds like pressing acclerator rather than brake.
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Parked my car last Saturday morning in a service road outside a newsagents,on the A5 in Colindale NW9.It's one way,double yellow lines on the right(offside) no lines on the left,where I was parked. Having left the location and on my way to work I was astonished to see a parking ticket on my windscreen. When I read the parking ticket it read:- Contravention: 27 Parked adjacent to a dropped footway. Time 08.30-08.31(I thought at least 5 mins had to elapse) I returned to the 'scene of the crime' later to have a look. The crossing is not marked in any way at all,no markings across the service road,no white lines ,no yellow lines,no signs.There is a dropped kerb made of those bobbly yellowish stones on the nearside,but not on the offside.The colour difference is so slight as to be barely noticeable. I spoke with the newsagent and this is a common problem.He had put up a sign to warn people but the council made him remove it! I was aware the crossing was there when I parked and made sure I wasn't obstructing it. Anyone got any advice on appealing this appalling rip off? Incidentally the unmarked crossing continues across a raised tarmaced area to the kerbside proper.The tarmaced area is itself a very steep downhill slope and the dropped kerb at the roadside is an even steeper slope I would estimate 45 degrees.Surely this can't be legal? It's certainly very dangerous to any wheelchair user attempting to use it in my opinion. Are there any regulations regarding such things. Kind regards Paul Read more
Paul - I'm not sure that any of us can add very much at this stage to what has been said already.
You need the photographic evidence: in my opinion for what it's worth, you should have a case to appeal if you can prove that NO part of your car was alongside the dropped kerb - i.e. in the positions of Car 1 and Car 3 as admirably described above by Silverback....
From the BBC - Many councils 'waiting for grit' :
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-11454665
We have a pretty cool climate, yet the majority of cars in the UK run on summer tyres all year round - which don't function properly below 7 degrees C.
I only realised this after I started regularly driving to Germany and Austria a couple of years ago. There, during winter months, it's the law to drive either winter tyres, or all-weather's with the snowflake symbol. Realising that apart from a potential fine from the police, I was sure my insurer wouldn't pay out if I had an accident ("well, it's the law in Germany...") I started investigating winter tyres.
Ask any tyre dealer in the UK, and you seem to get the response "ah, you want SNOW tyres'. Which is only part of the point - they grip in low temperature conditions, snow, slush, ice. Of course there has to be a flip-side - they don't have wear ratings comparable to summer tyres, with the soft rubber compounds I presume. And they don't work so well in warmer conditions.
The answer seemed to be all-weather tyres. But you need to choose well - a lot of these are aimed at the North American market, where tread wear is king - I have seen reviews of European tyres, where they have been criticised for not lasting more than 30,000 miles.... ! I ended up with Nokian WR-G2's, ordered via MyTyres since they don't have UK distribution. Vredestein make some good all-weather tyres, too.
The difference? In the warm weather, they feel like a good entry level tyre - you wouldn't want to put them on your ST, but for the majority of normal cars they are fine. They really come into there own in adverse weather - presumably as a function of treads to clear snow, they channel water away easily - my car never felt so stable in heavy rain. And what is odd is that as the temperature drops you notice... no difference at all! There's still the laws of physics, but grip in low temperature is far better....
I wonder, with all the coming cutbacks, if the councils are waiting for grit because they just can't afford it! Read more
I got stuck once last winter - on ice - and as I need new tyres anyway am considering purchasing a set of winter tyres, which I will replace with summer tyres next March, then back again in October etc.
There is a wealth of current test reports on this website http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/ including the recent German tests (in English)....
Hi there, any help very much appreciated.
Volvo V70 2.4 (140bhp) 2000 with 165k failed the MOT today on the fast idel CO emisions test. Recorded 0.79% first time and 0.63% second time. Natural Idle passed at 0.32%.... Read more
Excellent,a happy ending!
Hope you get some good mileage out of her to offset the repair cost...... peanuts compared to having to replace your vehicle :)
Im new to this site so looking for a little advice,
I bought my 56 plate Saab in February 2010 with 29k on the clock, all has been fine until a week ago when i noticed a knocking / rattling noise everytime i had my foot on the clutch which then stopped once i had taken my foot off, i've been to my local Saab dealer who has informed me that i need my Flywheel & Clutch replacing at an approximate cost of £1000. Reading various forums, this seems to be a common problem but i haven't seen any that need replacing before they hit 40k miles (currently at 38,800 miles). is this more likely to be a parts fault rather than wear & tear, and what is the likelyhood that Saab might stump up some of the cost if it is a parts fault?... Read more
My Saab 1.9 tdi had its clutch,flywheel and gearbox changed at 35k under warranty and it had started to act up again when I got rid of it at 75k.A £1000 makes the few pence saved on fuel a bit irelevent I have gone back to a petrol car much nicer to drive.
restricted performance sign came up but car runs ok , this sign has gone but still have warning sign, car snatches if heavy on throttle when pulling away, as though their is a small time lag from engine to gearbox, If driven gently then ok, but have noticed a slight creep Read more
Hi, NORTH WALES -(LL12) dealership techy for here for assistance, code read diagnostic tool with the very latest 10.4 software just released.
Here to help where i can, apologies if i should not put this post here, just here to help, return the gesture for those who have helped me, great web site, plenty of input. Codeman on f-book... Read more
Toyota dealership techy...
Why does engine cut out followed by preheat symbol flashing? Read more
I assume you mean the glow plug symbol,this symbol also tells you there is a fault with the management system normally from egr,turbo,injection system,turbo actuator,fuel system thats just to start with.I believe it tells you in the handbook.
Hi all,
Am looking at a 4 x 4 (used, budget around £3.5 - £4k) as I prefer the higher driving position and need to travel some pretty dodgy roads in the winter (ahh Scotland in December - lovely!) ... Read more
I would recommend a CRV , fitted with M+S tyres. this is what my sister uses on Exmoor where she lives.Her friends have had two freelanders (v reg petrol) petrol and 06 reg diesel. Both have had numerous visits to the dealership to fix major and minor problems.
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But I told you " power control relay" Regards Peter