September 2010
I've just been quoted £1,800 for a new gearbox + labour of about £400 and the cars only done 37,000 miles! I can't beleive it, i dont think the car is worth that much more!
Has anyone else got around a problem like this? Read more
I am using a glow plug style vegetable oil pre heater unit on a Citroen xantia with a bosch pump. My fuel mix is 80% new vegetable oil and 20% diesel. It was fine at first but now it stalls in the morning even as the engine gets hot. I then need to prime the engine/pump with the hand primer to get it started again. Once engine is at normal operating temps then no probs whatsoever. Surely if there is a blockage in the fuel strainer or injectors or anywhere then the problem would be there at all times? Even when the engine is warm?... Read more
Can these gas struts be refilled rather than replaced. I remember an article on this some time ago but can you provide details. Read more
First of all this is the first time I have used the forum and if I miss out any details or you simply wish for more background please ask and I will try to fill in the blanks.
Recently my car has started making a knocking noise, this happens when I am not accelerating or braking, but when I am resting my foot on the accelerator and going a steady speed. The noise will occur when going straight or around a slight turn, but since I know the bearings typically make a wurring noise to indicate that they are worn I don't think it is them. I have also checked all of the other wheels and they are rock solid with no play, I have also checked the sub frame bolts to see if they were loose, but again they had no play. I have also checked the wear on the drive shaft bushes on the drivers to check for wear, but there was no play in them either and they seem okay as well. The wheel nuts are tight and an struggling to locate the source of the noise.
Any insight that you guys maybe able to give on this matter will be greatly appreciated Read more
Recently had an expensive MOT involving emmissions associated with major oil problems, namely the oil b*****ing the engine up as no-one saw fit to change it for years! Now, 3 weeks after getting that sorted and the car running smoothly, it's started to feel juddery while accelerating and today, twice, it suddenly "jolted", the engine management light came on, the revs went up to 4-5000 briefly, then it stopped. I pulled over, turned the ignition off, then on, and the engine management light went out, although the car still feels juddery/jerky while accelerating, but especially at constant revs in 4/5 gear.
Had similar but not quite the same problems before which turned out to be crank & cam shaft sensors but i'm really hoping there's something cheap or something I can do myself to cure this problem. Spent way too much money on this car already, cars grrrrr! Read more
Happened again on the way home tonight, this time it didn't stall but the revs went quite erratic for 10 seconds, then carried on normally, albeit with the engine magement light on and juddering a bit.
I own a 96 D turbo (phase 1) 140k miles fully serviced as soon as i brought the car
I have had my car 6 months and now i think its about time i sorted out all those little annoyances. I have looked over many forums but i would like some information on my own car instead of someone else :)
My first problem is the intermittent rev counter. The majority of the time it sits at 0 but occasionally (once a month or so) it will flick on when first started and work for a few mins. I Think its a connection problem somewhere, perhaps a sensor? if so where would the sensor be and how much is a new one?
My second problem is the fog lights at the font. Although i just taped them up for the mot it would be nice to have them for the winter months.
When i press the button on the dash it lights up, the fuse is fine and so are the bulbs. I have even borrowed some from another car but it appears there is a loss of power from the fuse to the light. Is this just a case of cable chasing for breaks from the fuse box or would it be something else?
Another problem is with hard braking there is a speed related knocking from the rear of the car. It is NOT the exhaust. The brakes aren't too clever though so would it be possible that the rear brakes are siezed? i cant get the rear drum off to look.
The next two problems i think could be related but the second has only recently started.
When starting the car, it will sound like its hunting a little and will belch out alot of blue smoke. Enough to annoy anyone in the vicinity. After a little while or a quick blip of the throttle it will clear its self and return to the normal loud diesel crack.
when i turn off the engine i can turn off the ignition remove the key and the engine will continue to run for a few seconds. On a short trip the car wont be affected as much. i am thinking prehaps fuel pump not shutting off fuel or something to do with the idle?
And lastly the steering wheel is off center although the tracking is fine. Take the steering wheel off? ... Read more
If it has an XUD engine the rev counter is drivrn from the TDC sensor which is located just below the gearbox end of the cylinder head, there is a two pin connector in the lead which can develop a bad connection.
Your braking problem could be caused by distorted rear drums but its worth checking for siezure....
I own a 96 D turbo (phase 1) 140k miles fully serviced as soon as i brought the car
I have had my car 6 months and now i think its about time i sorted out all those little annoyances. I have looked over many forums but i would like some information on my own car instead of someone else <*** src="http://www.peugeotcentral.co.uk/modules/Forums/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif" border="0" alt="Smile" />
My first problem is the intermittent rev counter. The majority of the time it sits at 0 but occasionally (once a month or so) it will flick on when first started and work for a few mins. I Think its a connection problem somewhere, perhaps a sensor? if so where would the sensor be and how much is a new one?
My second problem is the fog lights at the font. Although i just taped them up for the mot it would be nice to have them for the winter months.
When i press the button on the dash it lights up, the fuse is fine and so are the bulbs. I have even borrowed some from another car but it appears there is a loss of power from the fuse to the light. Is this just a case of cable chasing for breaks from the fuse box or would it be something else?
Another problem is with hard braking there is a speed related knocking from the rear of the car. It is NOT the exhaust. The brakes aren't too clever though so would it be possible that the rear brakes are siezed? i cant get the rear drum off to look.
The next two problems i think could be related but the second has only recently started.
When starting the car, it will sound like its hunting a little and will belch out alot of blue smoke. Enough to annoy anyone in the vicinity. After a little while or a quick blip of the throttle it will clear its self and return to the normal loud diesel crack.
when i turn off the engine i can turn off the ignition remove the key and the engine will continue to run for a few seconds. On a short trip the car wont be affected as much. i am thinking prehaps fuel pump not shutting off fuel or something to do with the idle?
And lastly the steering wheel is off center although the tracking is fine. Take the steering wheel off?
Thank you for taking the time to read this... Read more
sorry wrong place
Hi. We're considering a used i30 diesel auto which has done around 32k miles in its 12 month life.
Assuming a full service history (which I'll check!), the car should have nearly 4 years manufacturer's warranty remaining.... Read more
Agree with Amstrong if in doubt don't bother plenty of cars out there .
I have a really annoying high pitched whine coming from the heater/aircon unit which rises and reduced in pitch when I accellerate or brake. The only way to get rid of the noise is to turn the system completely off. Any ideas?? Read more
Thanks for the suggestion. It was happening prior to it's last service which was a major one (it's done 172000 miles) and the pollen filter was changed then.
How do I go about trying to clean the mess up if that is the problem. The Haynes manual I bought is about as much help as a chocolate fire guard on this subject.
My year 2000 jag XKR came second hand with Brembo vented cross-drilled discs front and back. Jag want to charge more than £2k to replace all four discs and pads. Do I have to use the same discs? Brembo also do "Standard" discs for the XKR without the cross-drilling for a quarter of the cost, EBC cliam to have a replacement too, as do British Parts, but i don't know who can be trusted.
Any suggestions?... Read more
Unless you drive the car on track days buy the cheapest,I recently changed the pads and discs on an identical car the parts and labour were a fraction of what you have been quoted.
Apart from all of the other concerns, we could have a -5c Morning in 8 weeks time.