June 2010
Hi, bought the car few months ago.
I have no idea what the radio code is, how can I find out?... Read more
HI there, its been a long time since I posted here.
Last August we bought an A6 2.0 TDi from Teesside Audi, with about 33k on it. Despite reading HJ's review about the clutch/Dual Mass flywheel, I wasn't too concerned as both my wife and I seem to quite good with clutchs, having two other cars both over 200k miles on their original clutchs.... Read more
Without in any way defending VAG UK, who could and should be more helpful to their customers, they take the view that as the contract of sale was with their dealers, the customer should deal direct with them, and that any request for goodwill payments should be made to them by the dealer.
Skoda get a much better press, not I suspect because there is a different attitude in their part of VAG at M Keynes, but because their dealers are mostly family-owned and therefore care about their customers Their service receptionists usually know both customers and cars (Roy at Jewsons in Oxford is a fine example), as opposed to the junior ('Ooh, what's a DPF?') pen-pushers in the chain-owned glass palaces who don't seem to have any connexction with the workshop.
I have an Audi A6 Avant 2.5 TDi Auto 59,000 miles in great general condition and recently serviced. For some time I have been worried as the car will not go up anything remotely resembling a gradient. It will drive very well, quietly and at high speeds on a flat motorway. However, as soon as we get to a gradient the speed starts to drop. I have tried to clean the engine out with 2 tanks of diesel with a cleaner additive. This has had the result of the engine becoming slightly quieter and the INSP display now comes on after the second additive.
I cannot get the revs past 3500 which now makes me suspect the engine rather than the gearbox. I recently had the gearbox drained and flushed and new auto gearbox fluid added. The gearbox changes up and down appropriately. Also as far as I can see, the cambelts have not been changed - could this be the source of the problem?... Read more
Lastly, the INSP light is still on. Does anyone know how to reset it, please?
The flywheel on my wife's Volvo C30 2.0D has failed after 21,000 miles. It is being repaired under warranty but what is the likely cause & are the any future implications?
... Read more
The flywheel on my wife's Volvo C30 2.0D has failed after 21,000 miles. It is being repaired under warranty but what is the likely cause & are the any future implications?
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Did you click on the thread ready with the answer as to what it usually is when the audio in your car is low and distorted? Probably you did.
Yet I took my car to no fewer than five different places, 3 of which were recommended to me as good.... Read more
Hi I have a 1991 Ford Scorpio. The radio has been excellent until last week, when the volume reduced to about 20% of it's former level. Although very low volume the sound is clear ( not loud enough when driving ) When messing with the fade I can hear a distinct sound from the left hand speaker... Is it possible that this is a faulty speaker ? and, if I replaced it would that solve the problem...It's obviously highly unlikely that all 4 speakers have gone off at the same time...
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Took my almost 3 year old '07 Focus in to Main Ford dealership today to have the aircon regassed.
This they duly did then phoned me to say the pollen filter was totally blocked. I had noticed reduced airflow from vents over last few months. They stated it had not been changed since it came out of the factory. This item should be changed as part of yearly service.... Read more
Given that this thread is over 4 years old, we shall probably never know!
Wow, the original OP is still here to reply lol. I wouldn't have asked the question if I had looked at the date of the original post. Why do people keep reviving old threads and bringing them back to the top???
Hello all (just reposting this as can't change the subject title!).
Can anyone help me pleeeeeease (and sorry for the long explanation)?... Read more
Has your garage removed the injectors and tested them properly with all the test equipment I doubt it I doubt if they know how to test them,clean out the egr valve and change the camshaft sensor and I bet you are ok for another 150k.
I've been the satisfied owner of Cr-V's now over the last 7 years but now I've got a problem with my latest one which is a 2.2 Diesel with manual gearbox. I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced anything similar.
The problem is a noise, almost exclusively between 1500 and 2000 rpm and when under load, that my dealer is suggesting is an induction noise i.e. the air intake for the engine. It's not really a roaring noise, more like a rushing noise. For those a bit longer in the tooth (like me!) it's very similar to the noise you could experience on very high mileage rear wheel drive vehicles from the rear axle; only it's coming from the front. In fact the noise seems to be travelling up the gear lever. I've been experiencing it since I had 500 miles on the clock but then I did pussyfoot the engine for those first 500 miles so wouldn't have experienced it before then.
As a caravanner, when driving solo it's only there when accelerating fairly hard but when towing it's very annoying. It's right in the rev range that seems to be used nearly all the time and it's always under load.
My dealer acknowledges that there is a noise but tells me there is no other cases known to Honda and is reluctant to just start slapping new bits on without knowing the cause. He's having it back in this week for more investigation but I'd like to know if the problem is unique to my vehicle or not. I have already had a test drive in a similar vehicle with 15000 miles on the clock which didn't have the noise. This was with the workshop manager in the car with me and he agreed there was definately a noise in my car which wasn't present in this one.
We've ruled out the usual problem of the rear diff fluid.... Read more
I've been the satisfied owner of Cr-V's now over the last 7 years but now I've got a problem with my latest one which is a 2.2 Diesel with manual gearbox. I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced anything similar.
The problem is a noise, almost exclusively between 1500 and 2000 rpm and when under load, that my dealer is suggesting is an induction noise i.e. the air intake for the engine. It's not really a roaring noise, more like a rushing noise. For those a bit longer in the tooth (like me!) it's very similar to the noise you could experience on very high mileage rear wheel drive vehicles from the rear axle; only it's coming from the front. In fact the noise seems to be travelling up the gear lever. I've been experiencing it since I had 500 miles on the clock but then I did pussyfoot the engine for those first 500 miles so wouldn't have experienced it before then.
As a caravanner, when driving solo it's only there when accelerating fairly hard but when towing it's very annoying. It's right in the rev range that seems to be used nearly all the time and it's always under load.
My dealer acknowledges that there is a noise but tells me there is no other cases known to Honda and is reluctant to just start slapping new bits on without knowing the cause. He's having it back in this week for more investigation but I'd like to know if the problem is unique to my vehicle or not. I have already had a test drive in a similar vehicle with 15000 miles on the clock which didn't have the noise. This was with the workshop manager in the car with me and he agreed there was definately a noise in my car which wasn't present in this one.We've ruled out the usual problem of the rear diff fluid....
I bought a '54 2.0tdi sport a month ago. Paid a high price because the car is clean as a whistle inside and out, just done 100k. Full VW service history.
Opted for no warranty since in the past I found it wanst worth the rag it was printed on.
A few days ago I had the car on some very gravelly roads, and in circumstances where the ESP should have kicked in, it didn't. No flashing light on the dashboard and certainly no change in driving. I had a mate in the car who knows his VW's, and to be honest, we were testing the ESP as I'd become suspicious as to why you couldn't turn the ESP off when pressing the button by the shifter.
The ABS works fine, and apart from the ESP the brakes are spot on and the car drives superbly, handles well, etc.
We whipped out a star drive and opened up the ESP switch console -- and lo and behold, we found the switch unplugged. We plugged the switch back in, and hey-ho, the "ESP OFF" light is on all the time. Obviously I felt somewhat chagrined.
So my question is this: If the ESP unit is faulty (as we suspect), why is there no warning on the dashboard? Even when starting up, the ESP light does not come on like all the others.
Is there any consequence of driving the car without the ESP on? I've heard that the diff can lock in the bends when it shouldn't, but I've not noticed any such behaviour at all, even when pushing the car to its limits.
Also I've heard that an ESP light on indicates that the ABS as a whole is faulty, but the ABS definately works!
The car is booked in for a service so I'm sure WV will come up with a fault, I just wanted some background info before I get talked into replacing the ESP unit. Read more
Hi mate,
Wow!! I don't know what to say.. I've seen horror stories but to say they went to the extent of unplugging it to get the light out, that's horrific! I would certainly not worry about getting it fixed and just take the car back.. but then maybe they didn't do it and the previous owner did?...
The wife has a Y reg Corsa C 1.0 the three pot engine and I have had the chain and tensioner changed 6 weeks ago. Up until last week was only used for short runs to work and locally not going much above 40mph for long periods. This weekend took it for it's first long trip motorway speeds since new chain, after about 30 mins of 65 mph the old chain rattle came back as if the tensioner had stopped working! when we stopped this continued at tickover, left car for a hour to go shopping and when we returned the loose chain noise( bit like a diesel), had stopped , only to resume about 20 mins into the homeward journey. When back home checked oil was ok, and took rocker cover off top off the chain was tight.
Took it back to the garage and It wasn't displaying the symptoms, but told em it was after a 20 to 30 min run and I thought it was the chain tensioner sticking. Its been there two days now and the mechanic is saying he thinks it's the crank ( never heard of one failing on these before), don't think they have tested it and said that the new tensioners don't fail , gave me some bull about having a ratchet in it ( mebbe thought I came down with the last shower of rain).
I am thinking they might not have done the tensioner/used non GM even though they said it was a GM kit. Also possibly the oil feed to the tensioner could be blocked?
Feel like I am banging me head against a brick wall, Knew I should have done the job myself.
Any ideas? Read more
20000 miles service intervals and an engine that takes barely 3 litres of oil. Its not difficult to see where the problems begin is it?
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Last time I asked a ford main agents they did not charge me.