February 2010
1998 Peugeot 306 Diesel Turbo.
Until yesterday was running perfectly, put the rear heated screen on after starting yesterday morning and the radio went off. Little strange, but radio came back on after a second, so wasn't to concerned. Drove it about 40 miles, just switched to radio off to make sure. The dash needles flicked intermittantly and sometimes stuck in one position but the car ran fine.
After getting in after leaving it for about 5 hours parked up started as normal, although didn't have heated screen, hazards, speedo, rev counter, fuel guage or odometer. The headlights and indicators worked, although the dash needles didn't move at all.
I stopped for about 5 minutes, and when I came back to the car it wouldn't restart. The car turned over but wouldn't fire regardless of how primed the glow plugs were, or how much I pumped the fuel.
I've had a read around and people seem to suggest a 'bad earth'. I have disconnected the battery for approx 30 mins so as to try to reset any fault code in the ECU. I have cleaned the battery terminals, the earth connection to the gearbox, and chassis. This made no difference. I have checked all the fuses, both under the stearing wheel and under the bonnet and all are fine. I have subsequently removed the battery and put it on charge to rule out power supply problems. I also tried turning the car over with jump leads from the negative terminal of the battery to the engine and chassis as well as having the jump leads connected to another car battery (as if jump starting)
There were no warning lights displayed on the dash at anytime.
Any help greatfully appreciated! Read more
tinyurl.com/2o8v3k
Thread title edited to include the name of the tunnel in question. Thread locked because there's plenty to read from the older thread. I am sure all that could be said was said back then. Read more
Discussed before on here
I thought the name of that tunnel rang a bell ;o)
Hi!
I have a bit of a weird problem with my 96 Golf estate... any suggestions would be welcome!!
Basically, sometimes, quite often when I'm in third gear and am going down hill, I'll take my foot off the accelerator to use engine braking/not speed up, and although I've taken my foot off the accelerator pedal, the pedal will not move backwards with my foot - it will just stay stuck where it is. When i tap my foot back on the accelerator, the pedal will come back and I'll be able to use it as normal.
A mate had a look at the throttle cable and seemed to think it was ok, although I'm not completely discounting that as a problem.
The car could probably do with a service and spark plugs changing, and is often reluctant to start when cold, although I'm not sure that is related.
If anyone has any ideas I'd be very grateful!
Thanks!
-Suzie x
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My Golf has recently started to make a loud blowing noise (like a tractor or exhaust blowing) when going over 70mph. Today however once I came off the motorway and travelled at a 30 it was making a metallic screeching noise. At first I thought it maybe the brakes but the car does not pull to one side or the other and when turning corners there is no noticeable sound. My garage suspects it is the turbo but cannot diagnose it at the moment. Has anyone else had similar problems? Any help please! - Thanks Read more
Some of my may know my dad broke his arm in four places 8 weeks ago and still cannot drive as a result. I then broke my eblow a week later and was unable to drive for four and a half weeks. This meant both cars were not used during the cold snap. My car worked fine and am now using it daily, I have used my dads car a little but the last journey was a week ago and was 1.5 mile trip to the local Arndale centre. It started fine but took herpas 2 seconds to start.
Tried starting it yesterday and it would not start, I just hear a very faint attempt to start then all I can hear is clicking from the solinoid. I've measured the battery and it measures 12.2v butt hen I've had this before with duff batteries that they appear to measure fine but have no ampage.
So I do need to buy a new battery, charge this one or is it something else? The battery is about 18 months old. Read more
Put the battery back in and turned over in less than a second, it was instant :)
I just need to hope that the battery keeps its charge now.
As the title suggests, this thread is for all things Formula One and other general motorsport related stuff.
This is Volume 39.
Usual rules apply. When we get to around 100 posts, the thread will be locked and the next volume will start.
PLEASE NOTE
As with the IHAQ & the Computer threads, When posting a NEW topic, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each topic in it's own separate segment and stops each new topic from getting mixed up in amongst existing topics. Also please remember to change the subject header.
966534 Read more
I don't tend to watch Martin Brundle's pit walkabout. I'm usually working, waiting for the race to start. But a mate told me about something that happened on Sunday. It appears that 'The Sugar Babes' has been product-placed in the pitlane and poor old Martin was tasked with the job of getting them some airtime. "Which team do you support," he asked, and got blank looks. "Who's your favourite driver?" After some hesitation, one of them piped up, "isn't he called Button, or something."
It wasn't quite as bad as that...but they did come across as thick as mince. One of them tried to crack a joke about one of their records that must have 'Button' in the title. It fell dreadfully flat.
What is the max RPM you can take engine up to?
My Suzuki's M13A (car not motorcycle) engine goes fine upto 6000 RPM and redline is at 6500 RPM.
Over 4000 RPM I can really feel the extra power (heard that 2nd valve kicks in at that RPM).
I very rarely go to 6000 RPM level but does it damage engine anyway?
I heard in Mazda RX8, you can go upto 9000 RPM but it's a different engine altogether. Read more
The Honda S800 sportscar mentioned above had a roller-bearing crank and allegedly could rev to 11,000rpm without dying, although I think it's peak power was at around 8,000rpm.
Done a quick check on the DirectGov site but can't see the answer... so, does anyone know if you have a licence to drive automatics only (catagory B Auto on the licence) are you allowed to drive a car thats fitted with a DSG 'box? Read more
a few years back we bought a fiat seicento citymatic for my wife - this had no clutch pedal but did have a "gear lever" laid out like a normal manual.
Checked with various agencies and this was also regarded as something she could drive on an auto licence.
Not a bad car, but a rubbish gearbox/ clutch mechanism. Broke every 13 months and cost a lot to put right. Was traded in for a kia picanto (in fact we picked it up from being repaired and drove it straight to the car dealer to be traded in!)
I have since heard rumours that fiat offered very generous trade-in allowances on the citymatic to get it off the road.
I passed a Toyota dealer near me in Darlington this morning that had a massive banner on the front stating that it offered the scrappage scheme on cars just 7 years old.
I could have traded my Astra G in for that had I held onto it for a bit longer however it was a perfectly good car, it didn?t need scrapping ? I think it?s a bit to soon
What do other BR?s think?
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>I would be tempted to go for the swappage scheme if I had a car of the required age.
I have, but I don't want to replace it with a Toyota. One in the family is enough.
The Octavia broke 50k last weekend, just 22 months old.
As a 1.9tdi 105 it is not quite the match for the Accord it replaced on the refinement front but it is very close. Reliability wise it has been perfect, the only time off the road are as a result of me driving into things, not the car. That means it has had fewer faults in the first 2 years than the Honda.
Average consumption is 56.5, more than I expected (the target was 55).
Can't really add anything about space - it copes easily with our holiday runs to the South of France and sSWMBO almost takes the kitchen sink (I said no her request to take the rice cooker).
Variable servicing so had two services, another should be due shortly (around 18k between services) and only had to put oil in once between services.
Just had a full set of tyres, first set of fronts lasted 18k(Bridgestone) Dunlops took it to 49500 when all four were changed to Dunlops (SP Sport Fast response) last week. Still got a new Bridgestone on the alloy spare in the boot. It is a lease car so I don't get a choice.
Stereo on FM loses quality when you turn the engine off but not an issue for me.
This car has so many simply done but useful touches it always amazes me.
Wife still doesn't like it but hard to see it being replaced with anything but another Octavia.
PS - Sorry wasn't really perfect - just remembered that the bonnet release lever once came off in my hand and I needed to push it back on. See, I really did try to think of something bad to say about it . . . Read more
WT - based on your experience do you think they are better than the equivalent
VWs with the same parts?
Thats a hard question to answer. I suppose on balance, yes, they may be a bit better. I'm not sure why because theoretically they should be the same, and skodas are not usually looked after better than VWs (usually less well in fact). I have seen one or two Octys with over 500k on the clock and still on original engien and gearbox.
Probably the most troublesome VAG car we see int he Passat, which seems to present with quite a few niggles, and the latest model is no better. For a tough and durbale family motor the Octavia is hard to beat, its well priced, generally reliable (when it does go wrong it doesnt usually suffer nasty and expensive faults) and very solid. I would buy an octy over a golf, Passat or A4 in that size class.
Browse
I think a 98 version had the immobiliser aerial around the ignition barrel and it interacts with a small transponder in the body of the key. Some keys have a small coloured cap over the end. There is a cable going to the injector pump this feed will be live to turn the fuel on. These can stick fo you should try turning it over when someone is tapping the unit with the handle of a hammer. Regards Peter