February 2010
i am in need of an injector for a golf gt tdi 150 pd (ARL engine), took my car into the garage as it was seriously misfiring and juddering, especially when it reached 3000rpm (wont go past this most times) and would just throw out smoke. He changed the injectors twice but both used parts failed and now i am running the same one i had problems with.
So can anyone suggest any places i can get the above injector from, either used or reconditioned???
thanks in advance Read more
Guys,
I've had model specific roof bars in the past and, as expected, the fit has been excellent.
However, I'm now in a long term hire car (a Passat Estate at the moment) but could get any estate when they change the car which they do quite regularly.
I need to transport my mountain bike so I am considering getting some universal roof bars to fit to the integral rails that the estate car has. I don't want to get Passat specific bars as I may be given a different car (Mondeo, Insignia, etc) over the next 6 months or so. Likewise, if I get universal bars they can also fit my permanent car when I get one.
If you have used universal bars, can you give ne your thoughts on fit/security. Recommended brads would also be welcome, I have used Thule in the past.
Thanks
PS - I am fully aware that not all estates come with factory fitted rails but that is a chance I'll just have to take if universal bars are OK.
PPS - I dont want to get a rear mounted bike rack as I can't fit an electrical board to a hire car and I don't fancy the hi-rise rear mounted carriers. Read more
Good suggestion from ON, because there's not quite such a thing as universal bars that fit all estates with integral rails, at least not in the Thule range, as far as I know. I had a set of Thule bars that did fit several cars in succession - a Mark 1 Galaxy, a Volvo V40 and a MkIII Mondeo Estate, all with factory integral roof rails. But they don't fit my A6 Avant, which has specific mounting points on the roof rails and even the bars couldn't be used with new "feet" as they were too short for the A6.
Hi all,
I'm a newbie here so go easy!
I am a self-employed accident investigator and as such travel approx 40k miles p.a. in the course of my work. I am looking to buy a new car and obviously a need one that provides decent economy. However, as I also spend a lot of time in my car it needs to be fairly roomy/comfortable etc.
I have looked at a BMW 3 Series (poss the 1.8 diesel ES) which seem to have good mpg figures and also tick all the comfort boxes. Other possibilities are the new Passat or maybe a new Insignia (which doesn't have as good mpg).
Another consideration could be getting a lpg car (or getting a new 1 converted). What are peoples thoughts on this? Would it be possible to get a new Insignia for example, then fit it with a lpg conversion?
Rough figures are approx 50 mpg for the insignia but with lpg at almost half the price of diesel, would that mean I could effectively get 100mpg - or does it not work like that?!
As you can probs tell, I do not know much about cars!
Thanks for reading. Read more
If I bought, for example, a 3 year old BMW, would I expect to get a similar mpg figure to a brand new BMW (same model) and if not, where can I find out mpg figures for used cars?
The mpg figures for diesel engines actually improve considerably over the first 20,000 miles or so. In other words, brand new ones are the least economical.
Hi there,
Hope someone can help, I have a 2000 Renault Kangoo, which the sidelight bulb in one of the headlights has just failed - I cannot find any logical or easy way to change the bulb - can anyone offer advice please ? Read more
Hi my 02 peugoet 406 estate 2.0 hdi auto is making a rattling sound when in reverse, this is only when i hold it in gear, one i accelerate it disappears...can anyone give me any help as to the problem, i have had the exaust checked and there is no problem, also can anyone tell me where the top up point is so i can top up the gear box fluid.
Any ideas would be welcome.
Thank you Read more
The Haynes Repair manual advises removing the bumper and grill to remove the headlamp. I know I can get to the back of the headlamp by removing the wheel arch cover but don't believe I can access the bolts holding the unit in.
Any ideas on how to remove the headlamp - fairly easily, or alternatively how to seal the headlamp in situ after drying it out? Read more
I presume it's supposed to be sealed and I can't see any obvious sign of where the leak is. I think I would have to get the headlamp out on the bench to have a chance of seeing that and fixing it.
I detect quite a bit of vitriol directed at Ford on here recently.
Much of it the type of gleeful ill-informed slagging off which Rover/BL seems to attract.
So, as a confirmed Ford fan, a few random points in the blue oval's favour:
Ford is in profit, both here and in America, with no government help.
There are some lovely cars in the current model range, all of which handle like a dream, among many other qualities.
Plenty of evidence to suggest Fords are reliable, and at least as well-made as any other mass-produced car.
So why are some on here so keen to do Ford down?
Or have I picked up the wrong end of the (dip)stick?
Read more
Fords were also derided as "brickies' motors" - a reference to their blue collar image.
I think one of the reasons they bought Ghia was an attempt to drag the
brand up market.
Some pre-Ghia 1960s Fords broke into the Rover/Triumph market - I remember envying a school mate whose bank manager father had a Z car [show your age and hum the theme tune...] with a bonnet the size of a tennis court above a 6 cylinder engine....and a local GP had a Cortina 1600E with fancy wheels and lots of dashboard dials.
I suppose they appealed to the sort of people who buy BMWs today......ahem!
A lot of the roads here in Latvia are treacherous with extremely bad surfaces. VERY VERY bumpy. The large chunks of frozen ice at present make it worse.
Yesterday I drove a (probably) overweight trailer back from Riga, about 100km. The load was far heavier than I intended. (It was full of large, hardwood, bird sculptues done by a local technical school.
Anyway, the rub of it is that I now have a very loud clunking/rattling noise that appears to be coming from the rear nearside (right hand side when viewed from the back).
It's only there when going over bumps (far far too many :-) and quiet in the smooth sections.
It's almost like as if I had lost a shock absorber top or bottom rubber mount, or maybe the shock itself could be shot ?
Wondered if I might benefit from some of you guys vast experience as to possible cause ?
(For those that saw my earlier thread, it starts 100% first time now it's warmer than -20c :-)
Read more
Thanks..........
Given the Toyota recall and the advice given in relation to a throttle stuck problem on various websites and the thread here on how far can you rev the engine, I was wondering what back roomers might do?
Personally I reckon that though it would be scary and potentially dangerous, that not panicking and getting it into neutral are key, and that unless really unlucky it should be a manageable situation.
Any views on how to handle it and would the engine be damaged by the being over revved?
FTF Read more
I really don't see what the problem would be? Dump the clutch and the engine
will probably bounce off the rev-limiter but so what? There will be a limiter on
any modern engine so no damage will be caused.
No - My Primastar van started running on its own oil. - turbo failure.
When this occurred I thought it was the throttle cable at first, so I switched the ingition off, put it in gear and threw my foot off the clutch and this seemed to have solved the problem.
The rev limiter is set at 3500 revs - I assume via the ECU, but this didbn't stop it revving beyond that.
As the dealer principle said, presence of mine in switching the ignition off saved the engine. Repair was limited to turo and intercooler
Recently I've had an intermittent fault with the ABS and ESP lights illuminating on my Passat, which clears with the ignition. Some Google research suggested the brake light switch, but since it happened not long after I hit a deep puddle at some speed and the brake lights still worked, I wanted to know the exact cause.
Went down to the local VAG "specialist" (according to their website) who quoted £60 + VAT just to pull the ABS fault code from the ECU - more than a VW dealer! When I asked if it might just be the switch, I was asked if the coil light came on at the same time. It didn't, so this bloke assures me that it's not the brake switch.
Take a gamble and nip into the Seat dealer down the road. Fault codes read for £20, gave me a free ticket for the park and ride, and when I got back the car was valeted as well.
Turned out it was the brake switch ("Implausible signal") - so I'm kicking myself now. On the bright side, I reckon I'd have paid more than £20 for the valeting job they did on the car!
The moral of the story? Despite the insistence of many posters on this forum, the dealer can quite often be the best place to go. VW dealer was cheaper than all my local garages for the timing belt, too. Read more
Where on earth do you get that from? >>
Well you did say "important it is to check the Paperwork as well as the stamps in the book".
Browse
Hi, did you manage to get to the bottom of this problem? I've had 2 ARL's and they both gave me headaches. Great fun when they are running properly though!