September 2009
Hi all please help? vOYGER W PLATE 2000 {Correct year amended in subject header}
Got the immobiliser concerns like most on forum with my voyger happens about 4 times this year but getting worse and wife will not take kids out in it in fear of it not starting.
1/ Alarm light stops on flashing and beeping - all other clocks ect seem to be ok except once rev counter failed but ok now?
2/ RAC spent 2 hours at roadside no luck- towed her home 120 miles then started once rolled off truck ?
3/ Same thing again so then towed to auto sparky - but started next morning fine?
4/ Taken to crysler today and ecu had stored code of fault on transponder but they say transponder checked out ok and can not do anything untill code is active- got new key and fob on order as they suggested this may be the problem as we only have one set and key is worn(so need a spare anyway £200) they also say that should think about replacing the screem module if still not fixed with new key ?
5/ Once happened at fuel station but got it going after dissconecting battery for a good 2 hours ?
6/ Can anyone explain to me how to check the heater wires as discussed in forum ?how do I get the unit out ?from inside the car ?
Thanks in hope !
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What milage are these V6 Tdi's capable of, the car has been on variable serving at the Audi dealer and has done 100,000 just now. Thanx Read more
Yes it will be 233hp version - good engine, very smooth and quiet. I would regularly get 40mpg out of one of them too on a relatively good run in the south east...
Just comeback from holiday, and whilst away, driving in a 10mph area (for what seemed like ages) the over temp light came on, and I noticed that the fan's weren't running. So I pulled over and turned off the engine, turned the ignition back to start, and they came on (cooling the engine), so started up and drove on. The following day, driving through the same area, same thing happened, though this time when the ignition was turned back on, NO fans, so let the engine cool a bit and found a nice bit of 40mph road to cool the beast down.
Coolant levels OK! Pump working OK! (as was replaced before buying it), checked ALL fuses and relay's, OK! so got underneath, looking for the cooling fan switch and can't find it.
So at the moment, courtesy of maplins and plenty of burns, cuts and swearing, jimmy rigged a fused switch to the battery, and the fan's work fine!!!!???
Where is the cooling fan switch or relay? and how do I test them??? The "Service Engine Soon" light did come on twice, but after I rigged it, the light cleared.
Or is it another pink fluffy dice American thing that the temp. gauge tells the main E.C.U. that the engine is too hot, and the E.C.U. tells a relay to turn on the fans???!?!?!?!?!?!?!
{The no swearing policy applies to everyone - including you}
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Update on 2.0 petrol fan relay - bought one off ebay, jeepchryslerparts. £45+ £3 p&p, (arrived next day) half an hour to fit, problem solved.
Mine had the 4707286AD fitted, now replaced with a 'GT Greentune' pattern part, other than having to swap the little rubber seal and plastic fitting from my old switch it was no hassle....
i have recently been getting a loss of power at low revs in my 99 focus which has covered 108k.
The car was originally losing power once i came off and then back onto the accelarator but a change down in gears brought the power back. A garage i used told me it was a pipe that had collapsed (something about crank and air, please forgive me for my lack of knowledge).
Anyway it seemed to do the trick but now the car is even worse. The most common at the moment is when the car wants to stall once i press the clutch down in traffic. The revs die and probably on a 50-50 basis the car stalls or barely stays alive.
Could it be that the pipe they installed is faulty or is there another explanation. To be honest i know i should take it back to the garage but they was absolutely useless and i vowed never to go back again. Read more
You sir are not if you didnt like my topic then why reply in the first place.
Bell Boy asked as valid question, albeit part of it was tongue in cheek - yes, that's all it was. You failed to mention whether the engine was diesel or petrol. He asked you, and for his trouble got insulted in return.
For your information, Bell Boy is one of the many helpful contributors to this forum. Unfortunately for you it would appear that his knowledge and experience won't be helping you with your problem.
DD - BR Moderator.
Morning Fellow Backroomers. Hope there are some suggestioons out there.
I changed my cambelt yesterday, all timing cogs marked up properly so as to keep the same position etc and when all was put together again with the new belt in place, the engine was started and the sound is not the same.
Normally a very smooth engine but now I have ticking from the fuel pump area. I suspect that I overtightened the tensioner so the fuel pump cog has moved slightly out of alignment. The engine now sounds like a Transit Van. The car drives OK, no problems there but power does seem a little down.
Any ideas if my thought is correct, if not does anyone have a potential cure / other ideas
Please do return for more information if needed.
Many thanks in advance.
Christopher
{Correct year entered using a forum search of previous posts relating to this car} Read more
I don't really agree that it's plainly a mechanical noise of something dropped where it shouldn't have - the user complained of power loss too. The ignition timing has got nothing to do since as correctly pointed out the timing is not done by the pump but by the ECU according to cam / crank position sensors. Did you change the timing belt tensioner? That should be changed everytime with the belt and might be gone. Also, don't ask me why, sometimes water pumps fail with the timing belt. VW's sell you a whole kit including a water pump in fact! However what i suspect most is incorrect valve timing. Are you sure the dents and marks were all aligned? I fear the sound you are hearing is valves slightly striking pistons!
A slow-news day at The Telegraph?
preview.tinyurl.com/o5s3bg
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You don't see that many rental Audi / Lexus / Honda / Mercedes.
Does that mean that low-mileage used cars from these manufacturers really are likely to be
ex-manager or ex-demo?
Ex-rental Mercs and Audis exist, as they are often in the rental companies 'presitige selection' or whatever, and cars like the A-Class or A3 tend to be popular courtesy cars at dealers/ bodyshops.
Havent a clue about Lexus as they are a very low volume manfacutrer these days
Honda are no different to the likes of VW or Toyota, there cars can be used as daily renters.
Greetings comrades & Afendi's ... I eventually purchased a Digihome 80GB Freeview recorder from eBuyer/eBay and found it really excellent for the money (£40) but ... (1) I can't be living with that flippin fan (2) The recordings suffer from what I would call mis-fires (drop-outs?) sort of jumps now and again, so - I'll send the critter back manana.
I've been having a look @ DVD recorders and I quite fancy a 'graded' Panasonic DMR-EZ27 and was wondering what backroomers thought of this machine? Read more
Primrose hill looks ideal it is a bit close but I haven't got the time to go
to far as I won't be able to cram in other bits.
Rattle, it's up to you how far you want to go, but Hamsptead isn't that far from Euston. The journey only takes 10 minutes on the tube.
The service book says to use either 5/30 or 10/30. Chevrolet dealer has sold me 10/40 saying thats Ok for this engine.
Coments appreciated if it makes any real difference?
Thank you Read more
My local motor factor's oil supplier says 5w-30 www.commaoil.com/.
There's probably not a lot of difference as long as you make sure it meets the spec in your handbook.
My key stopped remotely locking a few days ago, as car is three yrs old I thought the battery was expired. I got the relevant battery and fitted the replacement however there is still no life in it. Locks work fine with the key inserted, do I need to get the key re-codedin some way by ford dealer? thanks for any help
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It certainly used to be in the handbook but I agree that my current Ford makes no mention of it-the code is lost if you take more than a few minutes to change the battery.
Can i fit an older almera N15 gearbox to new almera n16 also i have been told primera gearbox can fit after modifying linkage is this true and if so can the p10 and p11 gearbox fit ?
Please help as i have gone through 2 gearboxes in 12 months in my 52 reg car :( Read more
thanks for your replies
HI simon had problems getting on this site ove the past few days but all seems ok now, Took out the circuit board as you discribed on Monday but all soldering looked ok , even taken the board to local soldering shop and they checked it for me and said they could not see a porblem.Thje only problem i came acroos was a lot of grease contamination on the pins of the plug on the back of the board so I cleaned them up with some acitone (plug as well) fitted it all back together and )touch wood) to date seems ok.I did notice that they petrol light / gauge was playing up a little and had a green crusie light next to fuel light iluminated on monday nigt even though its not got crusie control ??? might of been becuase all the dash lights seem to be brighter since i took out the dash ?do you have any other idaes?