September 2009

alfatrike

i'm getting closer to buying a transit from a dealer and my question is which is better to pay with?

card or cash?

with card i have protection but will it be any use?

with cash i can 'flash the cash' to drive the price down.

the dealer will give me a TWO YEAR warranty either way i pay.

the amount i'm paying is just less than £4,500.

many thanks, alf

moved from IHAQ as it's a motoring related question Read more

danensis

When I bought my car the dealer told me that for anything over £1,000 on a credit card they would make an additional charge, so I paid £1,000 deposit on my credit card, and the balance by debit card when I collected the car. The dealer seemed quite surprised when my debit card transaction went through without a call back from the card company.

tedmurphy41

The problem I am experiencing, since purchasing secondhand from Car Giant, is that the driver's side power window switch, which operates the driver's window, does not operate the othe three windows. These windows operate independently however, through their own switches, so I replaced the power switch but with no success; it works in exactly the same way, the lights, on the switches for the three windows, go on and off with the operation of the isolator button.
I will look at the fuse/relay block by the passenger footwell soon, when I come back from holiday next week, but if anyone out there has had an experience like mine and rectified the problem, I will be very obliged to be given the solution.
tedmurphy41 Read more

bikerdels

I have 2009 model and after a battery disconnect, the one-hit window switch failed to work on driver's and n/s rear passenger's windows. Strangely the other 2 worked fine.
To fix I did a variation of the above:
Ignition "on"
Lower affected window using part way down switch position to the fully open state, then raised window, again using part way position and keeping it in place for 2 seconds once shut.
Repeat for ALL windows.
Works one now. Thanks for the guidance guys, just goes to show Mazda still using these type of reset tricks in later model too!

alfatrike

hopefully i'll be part ex-ing the mondeo for a transit next week.

my question is will the dealer take my car for a test drive or just take it on spec?


cheers, alf Read more

alfatrike

i'll probably stick an ad in the post office window. 250 plus RFL.

i'll get the rfl cashed in and then re tax if the new buyer wants to.

i've got the 125 bhp fwd transit, goes like stink. i've ordered a towbar, she'll pull a trailer lovely.

connie33

Hello everybody!

I have a query, I need to know if it would be worth fighting back or not.
The problem is that I just had a penalty charge.
I was picking up my daughter from nursery and somehow she strapped herself out of the car-sit while I was driving, so I stopped for... (I am not sure if it was more than a minute but it says in the penalty notice that it was from 17:58 to 18:00) over the footpath, with two wheels on the footpath (I was sent a picture as well)
I did not get out of the car at all, I strapped her again and carry on with my driving!!!
Can someone advice me, please

Thanx

Connie

Changed the title to make it meaningful. Rob Read more

Snakey

Again, going out of your way to misinterpret what I say.

MikeTorque

I refuel the fuel tank until the first automatic shut off of the filling station nozzle and leave it at that, I don't try putting more fuel in. I then notice there is diesel fuel coming out of the fuel overflow pipe underneath the rear of the car, about 0.5 litre or so which leaves a right mess on the forecourt floor to be cleared up, not to mention the wasted fuel.
It's occurs every time I fill up to the first automatic shut off.

Has anyone else noticed this problem with any Ford Focus 2008 onwards model and if so what's the problem ? My previous Focus 05 never had this problem. Read more

MikeTorque

I found this information on how to put fuel in to a Ford Easy Fuel system, hopefully this will address the problem. I've already had the Easy Fuel system changed as it was faulty when I purchased the car so I've ruled that out. Hopefully it's user error, see below for further details.

The New Focus (12/2007-) spring-loaded tank flaps close off the upper end of the fuel tank filler pipe in place of the filler cap. The first spring-loaded tank flap features a locking mechanism which checks the filling station nozzle for the right size. This locking mechanism consists primarily of a slider and two releasing notches. The slider has the diameter matching the right filling station nozzle. When the correct filling station nozzle is inserted, the notches move inwards, releasing the slider which in return releases the spring-loaded first flap. Further insertion of the filling station nozzle opens the second flap which seals the tank against the environment.

The following steps for re-fuelling the fuel tank should be explained to the customer:

1. Insert the filling station nozzle so far that the first notch of the filling station nozzle can be hooked into the capless system cover. The filling station nozzle should not be inserted any further either. Likewise in case of filling the car at the roadside with a jerry-can the funnel needs to be inserted until the ring of the funnel rests behind the cover.

2. If the customer experiences difficulties at some filling stations it helps to drop the filling station nozzle until it rests on the fuel filler pipe cover.
- Re-fuel the fuel tank (automatic cut-off or manual handling)
- Do not change position of the fuel pump nozzle during refilling. The fuel flow will be interrupted prematurely.
It is recommended to refuel the fuel tank until the first automatic shut off of the filling station nozzle.
A further refuelling until the next automatic shut off could lead to fuel dripping from the fuel tank overflow pipe to the ground.
After fuelling the filling station nozzle should remain for 10 sec. to allow a remaining quantity of fuel to flow into the fuel tank. Otherwise this quantity of fuel will be drained via the fuel tank overflow pipe to the ground.

tom8870

Hi

I have a 52 plate 2.0 TDCI diesel with 128k miles . The problem happened last week when the car cut out at 50/60mph out on a steep hill. Lucky noone was behind me. The car restarted. After it happened a second time - i took it to my local independent garage and the codes are P1211 and PO251. The fault seems to happen when i rev the car to say pick up speed after a roundabout. I drove 60 miles the other day at appox 30 to 50mph range and had no problems at all

The garage checked the injectors which they say are ok. They also took out the fuel filter and they say that it is also ok. They were at a loss as to what to do next so based on the forums i suggested that they change the crank shaft sensor. The cam sensor was changed about 6 months ago.

The crankshaft sensor was changed today. So there is some improvement. As i reve the car from say 20mph to 60mph on the road to replicate say overtake someone the car is fine till appox 2500 revs and 65 mph when i notice a slight loss of power and the glow light starts flashing. prior to crankshaft sensor change the car would just cut out at the 60mph.

So I am looking for any helpful pointers as to what i can suggest to the garage as possible next steps.

thanks in advance Tom

Read more

taffycraig

Hello, please can somebody help me with an issue I have?

I have a 54 plate (2004) TDci 130 BHP Mondeo, and last month my Glow Plug Light started flashing (and car went into limp mode with no turbo) when I put my foot down.

I changed the Fuel Filter and all was well for about 2 weeks (1000 miles)

THEN..... Glow plug light again when I put my foot down, and now engine management light is on.

When I accelerate the car slowly, I have a light clackering between 2000 - 3000 rpm, and stil - if I accelerate too much the glow plug light flashes and limp mode returns again, until engine re-start.

Yesterday, the engine idle became very, VERY rough, as if it is mis-firing??????? but when you rev in neutral, the mis-fire become less prominet (but you can still tell its there)

Can anyone please tell me what is wrong?? :-(

Thanx folks, Craig!

sonnydave

Has anybody experienced a cold-start misfire problem with their Panda? When the engine reaches temperature the misfire disappears but it makes for an uncomfortably jerky drive for the first couple of miles.
My car began to misfire on cold-start back in February and has been back to the dealer three times to sort the problem. Glow plugs were replaced, and when that failed to eradicate the problem, the car went back for a 'software upgrade'. This has also failed to sort the problem and I am now in dispute with the dealer and Fiat because under the terms of the third year 'dealer' warranty, I have to pay for diagnostics. I am now expected to pay (est £165) just for them to attempt to identify the cause of the problem, with no guarantee that they will find and rectify the cause.
Any advice on possible causes of a cold-start misfire would be greatly appreciated. Read more

Ashley Gaunt

Just another update for those with the same problem. I drive across Europe in it. Fuel economy back almost where it should be. At an average of non stop 75mph I got 5.1l/100km on the dashboard and 5.3 measured from fuelling. I suspect changing the other injectors (which were stated as not great) would get me down to below 5. But it will do. So in the end, worn injectors. I suppose from contamination or water from being stood so long perhaps.

diddy1234

I was just wondering what the smallest v6 engine is

Is there a lower limit to a V6 design, would a 1.0L V6 actually work or are there too many losses to overcome ? Read more

Derfel

There is also the Benelli 750 Sei which was a straight six produced in the 1970s. More details on this thread in Biker's Caff

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=10&t=7...3

Nabil

Hi All,

My Nissan Almera stalled when I was overtaking on a busy dual carriageway and it nearly killed me.
After some googling I found out that Nissan Almera has a RENAULT timing chain which stretches after so many miles and causes the engine to stall and not restart. Nissan issued a recall but no for all Almeras, mine wasn't included.
I took my car to Nissan garage yesterday and they confirmed it's the timing chain and fixing it would cost £900-£1000.
I really think Nissan should own up and issue a recall for all Almeras before someone is killed.

If anyone needs contact number for customer service here it is:
nissan customer services
01923 899999

THE MORE PEOPLE THAT PHONE CUSTOMER SERVICES TO COMPLAIN ABOUT TIMING CHAIN THE MORE CHANCE THERE DO SOMETHING ABOUT IT BECAUSE AS FAR AS CUSTOMER SERVICES ARE AWARE THERE'S NO PROBLEM WITH TIMING CHAIN SO THEY WON'T ISSUE A RECALL
Read more

daw1975123

I have a 2003 almera 1.8. Never had any trouble except front susp (£150) and a lamda sensor. Few months ago the symptons of the lambda came back (#revs dropping at junctions and low MPG). The engine warning light was on and off but then the car started jumping around like a misfire. Took it to an independent garage with the error code confirmed by AA as front bank running lean (Save a fortune diagnostics if you are in the AA).They replaced the CAM sensor and gave me an advisory that the heating element in the lambda was faulty. The light came back on the next long drive so had lamda / crank sensor and sparks replaced, total cost £359 including CAM sensor. Car now like new even though done £99.5k. The so called timing chain fault is a way of nissan making cash. These motors will run for ever if you service them and the faults are generally sensor related. Remember..... lambda / crank, cam sensors for diping revs / poor MPG / misfire. DO NOT go to a nissan dealer, just find a good local garage who will use genuine parts

helebelina

Hi. I suffered a rear end shunt into my car this evening. The impact was quite hard but there didn't appear to be any real damage - his reg plate was cracked and there was only a small scratch to my car at the point of impact.

Do you think I should get my car checked over?

Stupidly, I didn't get his number plate or details, as after checking there was no damage, I wanted to get away from the scene as soon as possible. I am a single business woman, he was a guy in a hoodie and although he was apologetic I still felt threatened as it was in a not very nice area and there were drunks jeering me nearby. It was a one-way street which had been backing up as we had been stationary for 15 mins waiting for a HGV to turn in the road so drivers behind were already impatient.

I now regret not getting his details in case there is any damage. Do you think this is likely, and do you think it will be costly to repair?

Cheers.

{minor edit. The OP has been informed why} Read more

the swiss tony

Fullchat - and others isn't there some complete and utter pink fluffy dice posted on here and
some downright useless advice? I really don't know why I read it or why someone
would post on here looking for good advice.


Exactly!
IMO this site is losing the plot at the moment!

someone quotes a website, but didnt bother to read what was stated on that website, I point out the relevant bits, including the reporting to police within 24 hours. I (and others) get told we are basically stupid to suggest reporting the accident (although by matter of any damage/injury - and there was, maybe only minor, as stated in the OP it was a legal requirement) and in any case, whiplash can take a few hours to come out.

what would be the OP's position if the other person did report it, and she didnt?
I know I would feel happier knowing I had covered my back....