September 2009
Hi
I have come out to the car and my car wont turn on (Y-reg focus) i think its the immobiliser because its just ticking and the light above the clock flashes with every click - how do i reset it or start the car?
thanks Read more
sorry if this has been asked before
about 12 mths ago i bought a parts washer , just a table top one , i also bought the fluid , from machine mart.
the fluid is water based , and apart from cleaning your hands , about as much use as a ,,,,,
need to replace the fluid , but in an economical way, the machine holds 10l
reading on other forums the concoctions they use , i,m after suggestions?
quite a lot of people suggest a mix of parrafin and diesel ,
which i can locate from local garage , what do you think?
i am just washine off moptorcycle gearbox/engine cases etc
PS I,m not a greeny , so i,m not bothered or even DONT want water based
thanks
alan Read more
Where does it stop though I saw a advert the other day for a major
American computer company that has 3 letters to its name. where by they said that
a car will be able to tell the mechanic what?s wrong with it BEFORE the
fault has even occurred.
I suppose modern aircraft have vastly more electronics, sensors, monitors and safety features than any car. That doesn't mean they're foolproof. Leaving out the spectacular disasters, it makes interesting reading to take a look at the CAA online incident reports. Bits fall off, systems fail ...
I ask this as I had a conversation with one of my chemicals suppliers who told me that they were asked if they could replicate a solution that they were sold as traffic film remover ( used as a general pre-wash by most drive-through car washes ).
This car wash place that made the request had been getting this stuff at 60p a litre whereas normal TFL is atleast £1 a litre if bought in bulk. The pre-wash that I use works out at £2.80 a litre for comparison but mine is non-caustic, kind to animals etc etc.
Anyhow, this solution was sent off to head office to decipher what it was that they got so cheaply. Turns out it was caustic soda and water.
Now I dont know about anyone else, but I think that is just a little bit scary and yes they are still using it and apparently, several other of these car wash outlets in my area use the same supplier. Obviously not gonna name them, but I did think it was worth passing on a bit of insider news id heard as I thought it was quite shocking!
Even worse, apparently they use some acid for cleaning bricks on car wheels!! Its priceless stuff it really is. Im so glad I didnt relent today and use the one I was thinking of using as it was one of them, so I had to do the msises car myself :-( teach me for being lazy that. Read more
It's easy to get mixed up between hydrochloric and hydrofluoric - the symptoms are vastly different though. Even well diluted the latter is nasty, bone eating stuff.
A bit like the China Syndrome, but though limbs.
i'm getting closer to buying a transit from a dealer and my question is which is better to pay with?
card or cash?
with card i have protection but will it be any use?
with cash i can 'flash the cash' to drive the price down.
the dealer will give me a TWO YEAR warranty either way i pay.
the amount i'm paying is just less than £4,500.
many thanks, alf
moved from IHAQ as it's a motoring related question Read more
When I bought my car the dealer told me that for anything over £1,000 on a credit card they would make an additional charge, so I paid £1,000 deposit on my credit card, and the balance by debit card when I collected the car. The dealer seemed quite surprised when my debit card transaction went through without a call back from the card company.
The problem I am experiencing, since purchasing secondhand from Car Giant, is that the driver's side power window switch, which operates the driver's window, does not operate the othe three windows. These windows operate independently however, through their own switches, so I replaced the power switch but with no success; it works in exactly the same way, the lights, on the switches for the three windows, go on and off with the operation of the isolator button.
I will look at the fuse/relay block by the passenger footwell soon, when I come back from holiday next week, but if anyone out there has had an experience like mine and rectified the problem, I will be very obliged to be given the solution.
tedmurphy41 Read more
I have 2009 model and after a battery disconnect, the one-hit window switch failed to work on driver's and n/s rear passenger's windows. Strangely the other 2 worked fine.
To fix I did a variation of the above:
Ignition "on"
Lower affected window using part way down switch position to the fully open state, then raised window, again using part way position and keeping it in place for 2 seconds once shut.
Repeat for ALL windows.
Works one now. Thanks for the guidance guys, just goes to show Mazda still using these type of reset tricks in later model too!
hopefully i'll be part ex-ing the mondeo for a transit next week.
my question is will the dealer take my car for a test drive or just take it on spec?
cheers, alf Read more
i'll probably stick an ad in the post office window. 250 plus RFL.
i'll get the rfl cashed in and then re tax if the new buyer wants to.
i've got the 125 bhp fwd transit, goes like stink. i've ordered a towbar, she'll pull a trailer lovely.
Hello everybody!
I have a query, I need to know if it would be worth fighting back or not.
The problem is that I just had a penalty charge.
I was picking up my daughter from nursery and somehow she strapped herself out of the car-sit while I was driving, so I stopped for... (I am not sure if it was more than a minute but it says in the penalty notice that it was from 17:58 to 18:00) over the footpath, with two wheels on the footpath (I was sent a picture as well)
I did not get out of the car at all, I strapped her again and carry on with my driving!!!
Can someone advice me, please
Thanx
Connie
Changed the title to make it meaningful. Rob Read more
Again, going out of your way to misinterpret what I say.
I refuel the fuel tank until the first automatic shut off of the filling station nozzle and leave it at that, I don't try putting more fuel in. I then notice there is diesel fuel coming out of the fuel overflow pipe underneath the rear of the car, about 0.5 litre or so which leaves a right mess on the forecourt floor to be cleared up, not to mention the wasted fuel.
It's occurs every time I fill up to the first automatic shut off.
Has anyone else noticed this problem with any Ford Focus 2008 onwards model and if so what's the problem ? My previous Focus 05 never had this problem. Read more
I found this information on how to put fuel in to a Ford Easy Fuel system, hopefully this will address the problem. I've already had the Easy Fuel system changed as it was faulty when I purchased the car so I've ruled that out. Hopefully it's user error, see below for further details.
The New Focus (12/2007-) spring-loaded tank flaps close off the upper end of the fuel tank filler pipe in place of the filler cap. The first spring-loaded tank flap features a locking mechanism which checks the filling station nozzle for the right size. This locking mechanism consists primarily of a slider and two releasing notches. The slider has the diameter matching the right filling station nozzle. When the correct filling station nozzle is inserted, the notches move inwards, releasing the slider which in return releases the spring-loaded first flap. Further insertion of the filling station nozzle opens the second flap which seals the tank against the environment.
The following steps for re-fuelling the fuel tank should be explained to the customer:
1. Insert the filling station nozzle so far that the first notch of the filling station nozzle can be hooked into the capless system cover. The filling station nozzle should not be inserted any further either. Likewise in case of filling the car at the roadside with a jerry-can the funnel needs to be inserted until the ring of the funnel rests behind the cover.
2. If the customer experiences difficulties at some filling stations it helps to drop the filling station nozzle until it rests on the fuel filler pipe cover.
- Re-fuel the fuel tank (automatic cut-off or manual handling)
- Do not change position of the fuel pump nozzle during refilling. The fuel flow will be interrupted prematurely.
It is recommended to refuel the fuel tank until the first automatic shut off of the filling station nozzle.
A further refuelling until the next automatic shut off could lead to fuel dripping from the fuel tank overflow pipe to the ground.
After fuelling the filling station nozzle should remain for 10 sec. to allow a remaining quantity of fuel to flow into the fuel tank. Otherwise this quantity of fuel will be drained via the fuel tank overflow pipe to the ground.
Hi
I have a 52 plate 2.0 TDCI diesel with 128k miles . The problem happened last week when the car cut out at 50/60mph out on a steep hill. Lucky noone was behind me. The car restarted. After it happened a second time - i took it to my local independent garage and the codes are P1211 and PO251. The fault seems to happen when i rev the car to say pick up speed after a roundabout. I drove 60 miles the other day at appox 30 to 50mph range and had no problems at all
The garage checked the injectors which they say are ok. They also took out the fuel filter and they say that it is also ok. They were at a loss as to what to do next so based on the forums i suggested that they change the crank shaft sensor. The cam sensor was changed about 6 months ago.
The crankshaft sensor was changed today. So there is some improvement. As i reve the car from say 20mph to 60mph on the road to replicate say overtake someone the car is fine till appox 2500 revs and 65 mph when i notice a slight loss of power and the glow light starts flashing. prior to crankshaft sensor change the car would just cut out at the 60mph.
So I am looking for any helpful pointers as to what i can suggest to the garage as possible next steps.
thanks in advance Tom
Read more
Hello, please can somebody help me with an issue I have?
I have a 54 plate (2004) TDci 130 BHP Mondeo, and last month my Glow Plug Light started flashing (and car went into limp mode with no turbo) when I put my foot down.
I changed the Fuel Filter and all was well for about 2 weeks (1000 miles)
THEN..... Glow plug light again when I put my foot down, and now engine management light is on.
When I accelerate the car slowly, I have a light clackering between 2000 - 3000 rpm, and stil - if I accelerate too much the glow plug light flashes and limp mode returns again, until engine re-start.
Yesterday, the engine idle became very, VERY rough, as if it is mis-firing??????? but when you rev in neutral, the mis-fire become less prominet (but you can still tell its there)
Can anyone please tell me what is wrong?? :-(
Thanx folks, Craig!
Has anybody experienced a cold-start misfire problem with their Panda? When the engine reaches temperature the misfire disappears but it makes for an uncomfortably jerky drive for the first couple of miles.
My car began to misfire on cold-start back in February and has been back to the dealer three times to sort the problem. Glow plugs were replaced, and when that failed to eradicate the problem, the car went back for a 'software upgrade'. This has also failed to sort the problem and I am now in dispute with the dealer and Fiat because under the terms of the third year 'dealer' warranty, I have to pay for diagnostics. I am now expected to pay (est £165) just for them to attempt to identify the cause of the problem, with no guarantee that they will find and rectify the cause.
Any advice on possible causes of a cold-start misfire would be greatly appreciated. Read more
Just another update for those with the same problem. I drive across Europe in it. Fuel economy back almost where it should be. At an average of non stop 75mph I got 5.1l/100km on the dashboard and 5.3 measured from fuelling. I suspect changing the other injectors (which were stated as not great) would get me down to below 5. But it will do. So in the end, worn injectors. I suppose from contamination or water from being stood so long perhaps.
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The head lights test is a bit poor. My dads car had this same problem and I checked the lights and they were full brightness and the battery was reading 13 volts. My mechanic managed to push start it, fitted a new battery and its started instantly ever since.
But by doing those tests I was convinced the battery was fine.