March 2009
I have been getting a very bad random missfire on my S8. It will go weeks with nothing and then it starts to miss when starting up or just driving. I have had the plugs changed as they were coming up due anyway, I have put on two new ignition control modules after the first one (fitted by my local Audi independent specialist did not seem to make any difference) It went well for some time then started missing again. On VAG Com it comes up as a random multiple missfire on various cylinders on both banks but not necessarily all of them at the same time. I am beginning to suspect a broken wire somewhere but where to start looking????
Have any of you fine people any thoughts on this? I dont want to use the independent again they were expensive enough and did not sort it. The local Audi dealer wants £115 an hour, something like this I just dont trust them not to wind it out, if it takes a day thats a grand nearly Read more
Sometimes there is a temporary lull in power which goes away again, many times this leads to stall with no power for few minutes, sometimes longer. Diagnostics found nothing. Ignition replaced under advice but still happens. Doesn't seem weather related
Apart from immediatelyt before a stall there doesn't seem to be any issue with idle speeds or rev rates?
Please help! Read more
Intermittent/unpredictable nature suggests it could be a dry joint in the throttle body - a search of the HJ forum will turn up many similar occurrences.
Click here for more info and a cheap, simple DIY fix:
www.micra.com.au/technical-articles/cg13de-throttl...p
Please can you post a follow-up to let us know how you get on?
I am on the verge of buying a new ceed 1.4 SR-7. I have managed to get a really good trade in value/discount, so the cost to change from my 2004 Vectra is about £6700.
I have trawled the web and various forums and have found that there could be a number of issues out there such as weak air con, high levels of road noise (test driving tomorrow), rattles and creaks from the dashboard (a pet hate of mine) and dealers not honoring the 7 year warranty.
I would like to ask the Backroomers their vierws on thism, and in particular if there are any ceed owners out there who can share their ownersihip experiences, particularly in relation to the 1.4. Info around ownership experiences, relability, running costs, fuel economy etc would be really helpful
Thank you in advance! Read more
Just to add a bit more
Our area has just had a new dealer. Ex Peugeot Dealer
Went into today and spoke to the sales manager, he was truly infused about the Kia product.
He confirmed that kia warranty claim was rather small compared to Peugeots and that he was more than surprised with the quality of the product.
So there we are, another Kia convert.
Nick
last year i had my air con serviced by vw and it worked fine. in august we had the air con blowing then suddenly there was a electric burning smell and the air con stopped working and blew the fuse. i put a new fuse in and turned on the air con which blew it straight away. the question is has my air con pump blown and what sort of job is it to repair it?? many thanks rich. ps i have checked the clutch on the pulley and it is there and in tact. Read more
Your clutch coil has shorted - time for a new one. If you're lucky you can get it off without replacing the compressor.
I've not been back for years but will be coming over in May.
I was thinking of renting a car in Paris and driving it to Berlin and taking in a few of the Cold War sites like Marienborn/Helmstedt on the way
With the EU etc., is it now a no-brainer to rent a car in one European country and drive it to another ?
Thanks Read more
I was actually planning to return it to France, i.e., not a 1-way rental. Should have made that clear.
Had recent f/n/s coil spring failure; no problem said W/D, get it done.
My Vx garage and Vx themselves, strongly recommend doing both sides [the springs from Vx are only supplied in pairs, perhaps to reinforce this message].
The broken spring had also ruined a 620-mile-old tyre.
W/D said ' we only pay for the failed item ' nor the consequentail damage to the tyre,
Result to me -- £220 bill . . .
Do we have to experience such a situation, before we wise up to the less-than-expected attitude of HJ's highly [and only] recommended warranty company.
Any similar experiences out there? Read more
One spring breaks o espring gets replaced.
Since the manufacturer doesn't mandate replacing both springs when one fails, that's a perfectly reasonable position for the warranty company to take. If replacing both springs was mandated, it would be an untenable position for the warranty company unless the terms made it clear that, in the event of a spring failing the warranty covers half the cost of repairing the vehicle.
My point, probably too implicitly, was that the manufacturer "strongly recommending" is unhelpful at best and blatant profiteering at worst.
Had full 4-wheel steering geometry checked and realigned in early Feb.
Mid March had f/n/s coil spring failure, so followed Vx recommendation and had both sides replaced. [see other posting on this matter]
Should the repairing garage - Vx dealer - have had the geometry re-done/checked?
The tyre specialist where the geometry check was done, said 'certainly' The VX garage said not necessary . . .
Who's correct? Read more
It really depends on the exact car - if there's an adjustable part of the suspension that has been disturbed, and may not have gone back exactly in alignment, then, it's good practice to check the geometry - which would be a separate job. However, some Vauxhalls have a suspension design where you don't disturb any settings, so, the garage may be quite correct in what they say.
Dropped my car off this afternoon at local independent for an MOT, and since I would be tied up at the airport 1/4 mile up the road until 10pm, I arranged for them to return the car to the airport and drop off the keys at the security gate.
Phone call an hour later to say it failed on the driveshaft gaiters (both sides cracked... hmm) and that it'll be £150 to fix - if that's not completely excessive I don't know what is!), and I reiterated my request that the keys are left with security.
10pm this evening and I found the car snug in the car park. Except security don't have the keys, and say no one has dropped anything off. I had an enjoyable walk home working out how best to dispose of the body of the garage owner, and fortunately someone I knew very kindly gave me a lift most of the way.
Got to be in at 6.30am tomorrow and with no car it's a helluva walk. Words cannot describe how annoyed I am, especially since I'm going to be forced to pay another £53 for an MOT if I take the car elsewhere. Read more
L'Escargot - perhaps a little less sanctimonious dredging up of previous posts wouldn't go amiss?
:-D
Hallo folks
I'd appreciate your advice on a car I saw last week. I have a basic understanding of how engines work, but no real experience of what's normal and what's slightly dodgy, so please bear with me and I'll describe as best I can what I mean.
I went to see a W reg Mazda 626 2.0 at a dealer last week, just over 60k on the clock. After starting the engine, with the revs at idle speed (although the counter was showing around 1000 rpm) it felt there was more engine vibration in the cabin than I would have expected.
Under the bonnet, the engine felt, well, 'lumpy'. I don't know how to quantify 'lumpiness', but with one hand on the top of the engine there was definite side-to-side movement.
When blipping the accelerator, it hesitated a bit before picking up revs. I don't know how long the vehicle had been in the parking lot before I started it.
In comparison, when I looked at my Renault 1.4L at start up, on that car there's no discernable movement of the engine at idle. The revs are just about 1000 rpm as well first thing, although I know that they settle to about 500 rpm once the engine's warmed up.
My question is, for a 2 litre engine, would you expect it to be more 'lumpy' that a 1.4? Or was this Mazda's engine suffering from something? Read more
By coincidence, TimOrridge has just bought one of these...look at the recent post 'yet another new car thread'. Sounds like he has got a lovely car for the price.
1999 hyundai accent 1.5, car is hesitating under load and i took it to a local garage and had it code read came up with code p0081 and p0082
said he would have to have car to look into further and would not give me an idea of price so as i am not flush with money at the moment i would like to try and sort myself. i believe the codes are listed as intake valve control solenoid bank 2, does anybody know what this is related to? thanks for looking and if you can help i would be very grateful.
Read more
Mrs S has a 1998 1.3 accent which developed similar symptons recently.
First of all I fiddled with the TPS & idle control valve (as it occasionally stalled as well) but the cure was a new set of plugs! (even though the old ones looked ok)
Sometimes simple is best...
Browse
You can often get P0300 codes for reasons other than ignition faults.It is quite possible that your problem is a failing MAF sensor,which is not unknown on this model.If you renew this,I'd suggest only use a genuine VAG part.
David Davies