February 2009
Very shocked, garage - {name generalised, edit by DD} are telling us rear pads need changing again. Car has 37 on the clock, brakepads fitted at 24 and 37000. Are they having a laugh? I understand there are various variables, but can anyone give us a definitive minimum mileage. Also, can a car fail on brake pads being worn? and finally, if you book a car in for service and mot, surely they should service and prepare vehicle to pass mot?
any thoughts gladly received, before m0nday showdown. (left carless for 4 days due to it failng mot on brake pads!!!) Read more
***** This thread is now closed, please CLICK HERE to go to Volume 9 *****
In this thread you may ask any Sat Nav based question.
No Questions About PCs (Unless its about the Sat Nav Interface). Please use the current "computer Related Questions" thread instead.
No Speeding, speed cameras (Unless its linked to SatNav features)
No arguments or slanging matches
Nothing which we think is not following the spirit of the thread
Nothing that risks the future of this site (please see the small print for details
www.honestjohn.co.uk/credits/index.htm )
Any of the above will be deleted. If the thread becomes difficult to maintain it will simply be removed.
This will hopefully give an easily searchable One Stop Shop for Sat Nav information.
This is Volume 8. It will not be deleted when it reaches a 100 posts, just locked and a new Volume started.
Previous Volumes are :- HERE
PLEASE NOTE:
When posting a NEW question, please "Reply to" the first message in this thread, i.e. this one. This keeps each question in it's own separate segment and stops each new question from getting mixed up in amongst existing questions. Also please remember to change the subject header.
Read more
I,m thinking of buying my first satnav. Can anyone recommend any particular make/model. I only want a basic U K version preferably with safety camera locations that doesn't require an annual subscription. Thanks in anticipation.
As per DD's earlier comment - header changed, as per the "please note" message at the start of this thread!!
Hi all,
Travelling south/east down the M6 this afternoon between Corley services and J3 I saw a liveried police V70 and a plain-clothes A6 boxing in an Astra on the hard shoulder, a liveried BMW estate parked behind another Astra on the northbound hard shoulder, then a police V70 and police 5-series having a word with a Golf about half a mile later on the southbound side. There was also a police 5-series parked on the over-bridge at J3.
Normally I don't see that many police cars on the motorway network in a 1000-mile week, what was going on??
Dave TD.
Read more
DVD, if the sign is not actually readable, as HJ says, then you're being completely unreasonable. The "opposing flow of traffic" which you mention probably didn't exist at the time. Still it's educational to know that some people agree with punishments being meted out even in exceptional cases where heavy snow obstructs signs in areas not well known to drivers.
Rust has appeared on the tailgate of my Ford KA around the rear wiper blade housing, and the surrounding paintwork has started to bubble up and flake off. (Rust is also a problem on the door sills, but I will worry about that later)
Worryingly, when I peel back the rubber sheath between tailgate and wiper blade housing, I notice the blade is coming away from the bodywork. Water is getting in and I fear the blade housing might one day fall off.
Can anyone recommend what I should do now? Is there a good filler material on the market which can make a good job of covering the rust hole and preventing further damage? Is it worth me giving it a go myself?
I was thinking that a larger diameter rubber sheath may be an option, to cover the affected area. Cheating, I know, but atleast I wouldn't have to be reminded of the rust problem every time I walk up to the car. Does anyone know if larger diameter rubber sheaths are available, and where I can source one?
And how should I go about touching up the paintwork? I have tried to use a little brush supplied with a tube of touch-up paint supplied by Ford, but the result looks terrible. Can rust patches ever be touched in professionally, without resorting to respraying the whole tailgate?
My Ford was registered in 2003 and I have been back to a Ford dealer, but they say that to qualify for the rust (or perforation?) warranty, I need to have my log book stamped by a Ford approved dealer, not only on the page where annual services are logged, but on the paintwork page at the rear of the manual.... which it has not been. Very annoying.
Over to you guys, and thanks in advance for any advice.
Read more
Thanks everyone, I appreciate all of your comments and will try to pursue Ford once again.
Hello everyone
I have a golf gt tdi 130 bhp remapped to 177 bhp 03 plate... its done 126k...
Few months ago i coudn't put the gear into reverse, i switched off/on the car then it started working.
A week ago, i was driving normally, i stopped on the side of the road to reverse and go the opposite direction, the car would not engage into reverse i switched off/on the car but reverse woudn't work... A person along the road pushed the car backward for me somehow the reverse then started working. This was sorted, but then i faced another problem at the same time where the car would engage into gear one and and 2 but wouldn't move at all, it would just rave as if it's neutral... Gear 3, 4 5 6 was working fine......... a mechanic came to my house who played about with linkages who got gear 1 2 3 4 5 6 into work but then the reverse woud not work.... i moved the linkages around, i got reverse back into work but then 1 and 2 wouldn't work.
The end story is that, i showed it around to different mechanics and i got different stories from them so i do not know who to trust... anyways... i got my uncle and my self to get the gearbox out.... i took the clutch out...... the clutch was completely gone, i changed the complete clutch kit.... and the slave cylnder coz it was loose.... i put the gearbox back on today.... the new clutch is working perfectly but still gear 1 and 2 is not working. the car woud not move in those two gears....... still having the same problem.... i m not driving the car again in 3 coz that will burn off the clutch.... any help please..... .... Do you guys think that the selector fork is broke..... if that is broke, wouldn't that make any obvious noise in gearbox?.... How much is the selector fork ?
Thank You
Shouting in header lowered Read more
Did you change the DMF as well as the clutch. Regards Peter
I have a CORSA 2003 SXi which has been no end of trouble since I bought it last February from a registered Vauxhall dealer. In November I had to have the fan belt changed at which point i asked the mechanic why my car had started to make a rattling sound (like a black cab). I was told that this was the timing chain and hydrolic tensioner. After having all of this replaced the noise continued. This has been diagnosed now as a problem with oil pressure. To fix I need an oil pump and the bracket/fixture/flange (Im no mechanic) that it sits in.
This was ordered from Vauxhall in early December. I am still waiting for the part now and rely on my car to get to work and back everyday.
I have been in constant contact with vauxhall who do not seem to care one little bit.
I have now been told that the part is not being manufactured at present and there are no parts in the UK, Germany, Holland so basically i will not get this part. Without it my car is a write off.
I have been told by a reliable mechanic that it is illegal to stop manufacturing essential parts for cars that are still on UK roads. Is this true and can anybody give me any advice? Is there anybody else out there in my situation?
I have now been without my car since 9th December!!!! Please HELP!!! Read more
www.consumerdirect.gov.uk connects you to your local Trading Standards office for free advice by telephone or e mail on all the usual areas of commercial (not criminal) dispute encountered by motorists, and others.
Note that the Act that compels manufacturers to supply spare parts for motor cars for 10 years from the date of sale is the Supply of Goods and Services Act 1982.
Taken from -...
my 307 2.0 hdi 2002 90 hp model sometimes shows anti pollution fault and engine managment light stays on and car goes in get you home mode ie <2500rpm. car is rapier model that has got none of this particlr filter and fuel aditive crap, just normal cat box. could it be egr related, friend partner van did this same thing, also when plug out air flow meter car has got better low end torque but plugged back in now, just checking. car has been doing this for about a year now only about once a month, but now in cold weather, last couple of weeks it does it every day. need help fast, cheers Read more
Why sell it? It is fixed! Looking at Autotrader I'd suggest that £2500 will be a very slow sale!
Hi there,
Car: 2003 Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCI 130 - 88K Miles
Problem: Flashing glow plug light and engine completely turns itself off whilst driving.
This has happened about 12 times over the last 2 days. Usually I can turn the engine off, what a few minutes and turn it back on again and the car will be fine. But then the problem comes back soon after.
I?ve been checking on some Car and Ford websites and forums and I?ve literally found hundreds of posts from people with the same problem.
So far the most likely suggestions from various forums and websites seems to be:
1. Crankshaft and or Camshaft sensor problem
2. Turbo seal leak needs repaired
3. Failed injector or loosing it's calibration and needs re-coded
4. Pressure sensor on fuel pump
5. Fuel filter and fuel gauge sender unit
6. EGR valve needs replacing
7. Fuel pipes being a bit knackered having holes in it and drew air into it
8. Fuel pump disintegrating or being blocked which in turn could be affecting the injectors
Apparently there have been a number of Ford service bulletins about TDCI Mondeos cutting out. Some have talked about a failure of the block connector for the fuel pressure sensor. A kit containing the connector was made available.
It seems it is a well known problem with the ford/jaguar pumps that due to the new non sulpher diesel not lubricating the pump as well as it should, the pump starts to break up and contaminate the hole system.
Anyone care to offer any advice? Read more
GeeTee sadly the rear bushes and handbrake cable problems are well known in this car but usually easy to repair. Get the later poly plastic bushes as they last longer. As for the drums I would get a second opinion before shelling out.
Pre-05 Mk 3s seem to be more problematic than post 05 cars when various bits were changed following the problems and given the huge numbers sold it remains a very reliable car overall as shown by the fleet and warranty companies so don't believe all the stories of it being a bad car. .......but I wouldn't have a pre-05 car......
3 Days ago I had a message come up "change oil soon" on my 55 reg Megane so I checked the oil and the level is fine the oil is black but ive seen worse! then today the service light came on saying "Check Injectors".
Ive had the car just over 12 months from locail renault dealer and been going like a dream, the car has only done 28k. Please anyone got any idea how I can solve this with out going to the dealer as thay charge £££s just for turning up!
Read more
The service intervals for the Megane are 18k unless you have a FAP equipped diesel in which case its 9k although you should be changing it every 9k really whatever the engine. Pop along here www.meganeownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php re: your check injectors. If its a deisel and it was 'check injection' it could well be a glow plug. Personally (as a Megane owner myself) I'd avoid the main Dealer if at all possible and try to find an independent Renault garage. They'll charge you £80 just to plug it in.
I am considering replacing my current car ('99 Almera) with something newer. Really I'd like another MX-5 but as I need to be able to transport bikes and want sensible running costs, it looks like it will have to be another small family hatchback or estate.
The obvious choice is the Focus but I've never driven one so would appreciate your views on the various engine options, i.e. how they are too drive and their relibility.
I'm ruling out the 1.4 petrols as too slow & the newer 1.6/2.0 diesels because they are too expensive relative to the petrols (I only do about 6000 miles per year), so that leaves:
1.6 (100) - plenty around
1.6 (115) - looks good on paper for performance/economy
1.8 - doesn't seem to offer any advantage over 1.6 (115)
2.0 - a bit quicker but hopefully still reasonable economy, not so to choose from though.
1.8TDCi - would prefer petrol but might consider one, how reliable are these? Read more
The 1.6 Ti-VCT is the best engine. It likes to rev though so may not suit everyone.
Regarding the comment about the Focus' handling. It's nothing to do with tyre sizes, I've driven plenty of cars on 16s and 17s that have handled like a manky blancmange. The reason that the Focus handles so well is down to its elaborate multi-linked rear suspension whereas some other manufacturers continue with the torsion beam arrangement which is much harder to 'tune'.
Browse
Use your initiative. All I do is say "No screenwash, thank you". Easy peasy.