November 2008
Hi I am looking to buy a cheap engine diagnostics code reader but am unsure of the type to buy. Is a W reg (2000) a standard OBD/OBDII or CAN ? I have read that the socket is under the dash in the passenger foot well is this correct? eBay sell PC based interfaces for as little as £24, are they any good? I only want to clear any fault codes present now and then check for any new ones appearing in the future.
Thanks in advance Andy Read more
Can anyone advise about the method for replacing the pollen filter in a 1.6 Note? Read more
I have a 2007 Niissan Note. The pollen filter is accessed on the passenger side underneath, and to the right of the glovebox. It is visible, with your head in the footwell. It is grey, in my case. There is no need to dis-assemble anything.
Press down on the top of the filter, and pull out. when replacing, slide in partially, and press down the top outside corner to get it to click in. The filter should have an "UP" arrow on the outside edge.
Hey I have a P reg Rover 214. A couple of weeks ago, whilst stuck in traffic my temp gauge reached maximum. I switched the engine off to give it time to cool down but then it took a while to start again. When I got home and let the car cool down I opened the bonnet and realised that the coolant was empty. I filled this up and the car was then running fine...... until a couple of days ago. The same thing happened to me again and when i looked under the bonnet the coolant was empty again. I filled it up but then the morning after I had trouble starting the car. Yesterday, my car completely conked out on me. I'm ashamed to say this but i think that this was due to lack of petrol. After putting some petrol in it, however it wouldn't start and we had to push it back home.
We then changed the starter motor on it and charged the battery. This seemed to do the trick. This morning however, my temp gauge has taken to jumping up and down between half way and the top. It doesn't seem to do this so much when I am going down hill or when I take my foot off the gas. It does it in every gear at about 1500 revs except third gear which it seems to like!!
I dont think that this could be an accurate reading of the temp of my engine as I am sure that it would crack if the temp changed so much at such speed.
Does anybody have any advice as to what could be causing this and how i could fix it? Read more
Hi Mexxy,
I'm afraid I have to agree with the people suggesting the head gasket.
I had a Rover 214 si (K- series engine). Almost as soon as I got it, the temperature needle went into the red and the coolant pressure went up that much that it started to seep from the coolant reservoir cap.
I returned it to the garage and they changed the head gasket. It then went back a couple of weeks later as they had not skimmed the head properly and therefore needed a new gasket again!!
12 months later I was suddenly noticing the car was loosing power and hesitating then going again. This got progressively worse until the temp gauge started rising again and the car would just stop working until it had cooled down. This happened whenever I was in traffic and there was no cool air hitting the radiator.
I have to say that despite this happening many times it did no damage to the engine block.
People I have spoken to since have mentioned that the rover K-series is a renown gasket boiler and once they have gone expect to change them every few years.
HOWEVER- better news-
I have since heard that Land Rover have developed a range of gaskets that are much more resilient to over-heating- I'm not sure if they do one to fit all the Rovers Cars- the conversation I had was regarding Lotus Elise (Rover 1.8 VVT K-series engine).
Hope this helps?
I have been enjoying a few weeks in the sun.
I got a free upgrade from a Passat / Accord / Volvo to an Audi A4 TFSI 1.8 CVT.
This Multitronic / Tiptronic version had flappy paddles and EIGHT speeds to play with.
I found the gearbox aspect to be very clever.
Driving in auto, just a touch of either paddle and it switched out of auto and displayed 12345678 with its choice of gear highlighted. The normal floor quadrant could still be used for sequential gear changes.
It had the usual "sport mode" that with a heavy boot red lined.
Another clever feature was that in auto, on deown slopes, having used the brakes it retained that gear and thus better engine braking.
Other observations on the A4.
Use of the heater A/C controls activated a Sat Nav sized screen so very easy to see.
IIRC 20 speed fan for the interior displayed like a clock face on the screen.
Similar display for temp
Chin spoiler already scraped and very easy to repeat (even exiting the hire car site).
Electronic dip stick - no normal dipstick. Brake fluid resevoir shrouded.
( this tends to support my views that the engine bay acces is becoming a no no for for all but the experts)
At night the cabin was lit like a Christmas tree. Absolutely everything that moved had a little red indicator.
RTFM and extras like adaptive cruise control and blind spot warnings are available.
Overall good fun for a 98 Mondeo driver. Read more
"And the increased efficiency and affordability of an auto"
A traditional torque converter type auto is less efficient than a manual. Agree a dual clutch arrangement like the VAG DSG is efficient. If it were not for the inefficiency for the torque converter boxes a lot more would have them already. On a more powerful engine the losses are probably a smaller %age and so easier to justify - you try selling a manual 2+ litre Mercedes with a manual box and foot operated parking break ;-)
At the end of August of this year I purchased a Mini Cooper S from my local dealership (I will call it delearship 1), I'm now sick to the teeth of the car due to various problems.
Here is an email I sent to "dealership 1"
The problems started the first day I bought the car. I took it to a friend?s business based in Worcestershire that specialise in MINIs. He?s an ex head tech at dealership 2 (another local dealership), straight away he noticed that the car was well overdue its first service. Not because of mileage, but because of age (2 years old). This isn?t great news on the first day of ownership of a ?cherished MINI?.
When I booked the car in for this I also asked your Service team (dealership 1) to check the steering rack as it was ?creaking / clunking? when moving the car at low speeds, e.g. parking. I was told that there was nothing wrong with the steering and that it was fine.
Knowing there was something definitely wrong with the steering I took the car to Dealership 2, who over this visit and around 3 or 4 other visits replaced the steering column, steering spindle, cd player, heater, clutch, flywheel, drivers door window regulator, drivers armrest pad and a few other parts. All in 5 weeks of owning the car.
I now have several other problems emerging that I am coming to see your service manager about tomorrow afternoon.
Its annoying as when I agreed the finance with your salesman he told me how this car would only cost me a bit extra on payments per month than my previous BMW did. This is now not the case as each time I visits either dealership 1 or 2 I?m losing time from work as well as having to travel. Taking the first month as an example, I made at least 4 separate visits to dealership 2 service, so that is 16 Journeys between my home /work and the dealership.
I can appreciate the car is not brand new, I look after the car very well, never drive it hard, let it warm up and cool down before use (yes over the top) but I?m a great believer in peace of mind. I could live with a few niggles but at the moment every time I drive the car I hate it and seriously regret buying it.
Tomorrow I?m coming to see Jeremy regarding a rattle from the gearbox at low revs, loose boot, miss aligned front bumper, brake ?grinding? and a rattle I get when starting the car.
Could you tell me what my rights are regarding rejecting the car please?
Any advice would be much appreciated!
Thanks
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This may sound flippant but it sounds not unlike BL minis from years ago. I say that as someone that's owned several.
All the best with it.
Steve.
Hi, i bought this Zafira 2ltr dti on 13/10/2008, from a main car dealer, on the day i was collecting it,i noticed a warning light on the dash,the one with the car,with a spanner ,but after a few minutes it went out,on day 2 of having the car,again i noticed the warning light,and also the water temp gauge not working,i contacted the dealer,and they told me to bring the car over to them,the car was then sent to Vauxhall,as they could find no faults, Vauxhall put 4 new glow plugs in the car, no more warning light,but now the car revs up,when i slow down,and will run on its own,(NO FOOT ON PEDAL),also temp gauge still not working,unless i drive about 30 miles,i have again contacted the dealer,but they told me the car,is out of there 2 week warrenty,they also say,that they want me to bring it to them today 4/11/2008, were again it will go to Vauxhall,i contacted Vauxhall myself,and told them,the car was driving ok,before they put the glow plugs in,but there reply,was that its not the glow plugs,and they need to check it,i really dont know what to do,i feel as if,ive been done,i still am waiting on the dealer giving me the log book,for the car,and even the tax is up, is there anything i can do
Thank you
{subject header amended to include a brief description of problem} Read more
thank you for your replys, car is now with the dealer,as of yesterday,will let you know the outcome.
cheers
Got a problem with loss of power and revs when the engine is cold. It feels like automatic choke cutting out too early and engine is short of fuel. It never happens when the engine is warm just when cold. Any ideas? I don't even know if cars still have automatic chokes Read more
Finally sorted by local Garage, faulty Lamda sensor that gave occassional emissions warning light. They were sceptical it would sort this out but when they changed it the problem dissapeared. Cost £160 to get fixed with original parts.
My other half has a 307 SW 2.0 SE Auto. registered as a UK import (new) in April 2004, we bought it in 2006
Super car, lovely to drive, all the fancy Gizmos work (touch wood). It's coming up to 40,000 miles. I assume it has a timing belt, so should we get this changed at the next service?
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Hmm, well, for the first year we owned it, it covered mostly motorway miles. This last year it's done a daily suburban commute of about 20 miles. Only 'adversity' I know about is it driving thru some flood water (happily) about 18 months ago.
Maybe we can leave the timing belt for another 10,000 then ..
Does anyone have any advice on changing the cambelt on a Scudo van please ?
Is there anything else I should do while I am in that area of the engine ?
I dont have the manual so do I just mark it up and change the belt or is there somewhere on the web I can get a diagram to help me ?
Lot of questions I know but any advice will be much apreciated.
Thanks in advance. Read more
told you , you would get some help , just need a link to a autodata picci now
alan
snipquote!
The cooling is working OK in normal use, but when the coolant temperature rises into the read on teh gauge, e.g. when stuck in traffic, the radiator fan does not come on.
I have just brought the car. The previous owner obviously had an issue as the radiator thermostat plug was missing. I have:
- Put a new plug on
- Replaced the thermostat
- Checked when the plug terminals are shorted the fan does comes on.
- Double checked the plug is firmly into the themostat
Any ideas, anyone, please? Read more
Thank-you both, Screwloose and Andyjarv.
Your combined wisdom is pointing to the coolant pump or maybe the engine thermostat. I'll check them out.
Are there any easy ways to detect a faulty pump? I mean it is obviously working to some extent.
Browse
I'm not that bothered about the air bag as I 'hope' never to need it. But I was worried about doing some damage to the engine if I am running with a engine fault that's hidden.