September 2008
i put up a post a while ago about my car stallin so got a new fuel cap because it was somethin to do with the air flow in the tank. problem now solved but now another one has popped up.when im waiting at lights or even if i put the car in to drive and push the pedal to go nothing happens , the car doesnt move so i have to put it into neutral then back into reverse/drive until the car will move again. this happens quite alot . does anyone know y this happens and is it cheap to fix as i cant fork out alot on repairing the car.
{subject header tweaked to give a brief summary of question being asked} ie, made less vague Read more
constant oil leak from what appears to be the sump pan. Was advised that this is corroded and requires replacing. Has anyone experience of this, how easy will it be for a novice to work on.
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As far as I know the Cougar is built on the Mondeo floor pan/suspension. You may get a more informed answer on a Ford/Cougar specific forum.
There are a few threads on here about rusty Ford sumps, they may be of some help as well.
I am looking for an automatic banger for my wife who is still learning to drive. It won't go more than 5 miles from our house [her office is 4 miles from home]. As long as it is legally drivable [ie has MOT] any car will do.
My budget is around £200 [+ I'm happy to pay the tax] and car should be drivable for 9-10 months at least without needing to fix anything. Of course, if it requires any repair I'll scrap it.
My insurer can cover the car [up to Group 7] for £25/month - which I think is reasonable.
I've looked into AutoTrader/Ebay but the problem is, at this price I can't find any car which has MOT.
Any suggestions for which car and where I can find them?
Thanx Read more
I think you will have a hell of a struggle, but good luck. I think you need about double (£400) your budget in order to start getting cars that meet your requirements. Women are most likely to crash within the first year of driving - :-) - so maybe it is best to get a slightly more expensive banger, and then run it for longer than you currently plan to, rather than buy a decent car right after she passes.
Hi All
I have a question with regard to a 'European specification' car being sold here in Qatar.
We live and work in Doha and it is STINKIN' hot here! We really want a Mitsubishi Pajero (sold as the Shogun in the UK) and have found one with 178km on the clock. It is obviously a brand new 2007 model and would suit us very well. However, a mate of ours went up the road to the Mitsubishi dealer. This dealer gave him a story about a particular job lot of Pajeros being bought by a Kuwait company for use in Iraq. For some reason, the 'European specification' means it will not functionover here and will repeatedly overheat and cost a fortune to fix.
Frankly, I don't know what to believe. This particular dealer is selling a 2008 model for less than 10% more than the one we found so it won't hurt us to get a dealer model but I am intrigued by this story....
Any thoughts from anyone?
Beccakinn Read more
right i take it that brodie you are on about the shogun sport, there have been some that do crack the swirl pots in the cylinder heads, apart from blocked radiator, it is nearly always a cracked head or gasket that causes overheating on this model, same as the l200 up to 06my, if you are as in the original post on about a shogun, then they are sound, next to no issue, just make sure that the egr cooler recall has been carried out. yes different regions have different specifications, such as in cold climates, they often have 2 batteries, and heavy duty starter motors, in the middle east the air will not be as dense so the ecu may have a different map on it, which will have consequences on the air/fuel ratio, which if wrong can cause overheating, i would stick to a middle east spec shogun.
My dad had a moment today in his '93 Astra. The track rod broke off while he was driving and his NSF wheel steadily turned kerbside.
Turns out that the two nuts holding it had both rusted through their thread - one has been loose for a while ( I told him the steering was very vague but its hardly used so hardly noted ) and today the second one broke off and within 5 miles he could no longer drive the car and limped into a garage. It was almost at a critical point.
The other side was in the same rusty condition and could have gone at any moment.
Apparently caused by not needing tracking done for many years ( Astras apparently dont often ).
Highlights the need for coating such components against corrosion. Could have been a real horror story at 80mph. Never mentioned at MOT in January either - I thought corrosion of safety related parts was examined and would have atleast been advised? Read more
I don't really get the picture how this happened. Track rod ends have whopping great nuts about an inch across on a track rod about half an inch. I've had them seize solid, but something that size should take a hundred years to rust through. I can image a well-greased one that hadn't been tightened properly slowly unwinding - or is this case a different kind of design?
Hi,
I've read the comprehensive thread regarding the stalling issues for the Fiesta 1.3 engine but couldn't find anything regarding the 1.4 Zetec.
I own a 1.4 Fiesta Chicane P-Reg.
I bought it second hand a couple of years ago and have had trouble free motoring until now.
Whenever I begin braking and press the clutch the rev's quickly drop below 500rpm. It doesn?t matter what gear it is in. The car begins to feel like it is going to stall and on occasion it does. Say if I am driving around town (London) for 30mins it will stall once or twice.
The car is regularly serviced and I have just had a new exhausted put in. The old one was rusted.
Any ideas?
Reading the posts regarding the 1.3 engine could it be the Idle control valve??
The engine idles fine while the car is stationary in traffic. Considering the problem arises when the clutch is pressed could there be a fault with the clutch?
If anyone has any idea where I should start looking that would be great. I?m planning to take it to my local garage and any information before I go would reduce the pain of having to pay for any unnecessary repairs.
Cheers,
Will.
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In my case I believe it was the lambda sensor that was sporadically failing:
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=61...4
If the car is sometimes hesitating when accelerating and you eliminated IACV etc; it's worth a look.
tinyurl.com/67m5af
The trailing vehicle looks rather incongruous with its' displayed sign - if drivers can't see *that* - !!
Split-line URL included for future reference, as tinyurl references don't last for ever:
www.telegraph.co.uk/news/picturegalleries/pictures.../
2710834/Pictures-of-the-day-9-September-2008.html?image=17 Read more
It is cheaper with our privately owned railway to move a single rail vehicle by road raather than rail.
Astoundingly when I worked for a train builder it was cheaper and easier to deliver an 8 car central line tube train using eight separate lorries by road than it was to do it by putting it behind a diesel locomotive and towing it down by road. It must have embarrassed someone because only the first few went by road.
just been shopping around on the net for a new tailgate central locking motor
Phoned a skoda dealer = 40 pounds sir + postage- i wrote an email to confirm, no reply!
Tried 24/7 spares - got various quotes from different breakers ranging from 25 to 35 pounds + carriage costs for a used part
I then emailed GSF who promptly replied explaining the part no has changed and it is available, new, on special order for 17 pounds all told (this includes air mail to India!). I confirmed bank transfer and the motor is now on order before the payment has reached their account!
Well done GSF Read more
I found this myself a few years ago.
I needed a replacement washer bottle for my car and tried the various used parts websites, the cheapest quote I got was £140+VAT.
I then tried the main dealer £95 all in.
OK, I've been living with this for a while, but fortunately, the mileage is low on the Touran now, so it's an annoyance only once in a while.
Whenever I fill up at any petrol station with Diesel, the pump cuts out at very low fill rate. i.e. I'm pulling the pump handle so gently that the flow of diesel means I can take 10 minutes filling the tank from empty to 50 Litres.
If I squeeze any harder, it cuts out constantly, even at the low flow rate it still cuts out occasionally.
I cannot understand why this is happening, the fuel isn't blocking the airhole cutout, as the tank is usually empty. It's not the pump, as I fill up my other Citroen at the same pump, same petrol station, so it's something with the Touran's tank or inlet pipe which is to blame
Any ideas anyone. More of an annoyance, and I'm loathe to take it to VW as they'll probably find an expensive problem to fix on this 4 year old car
Thanks
Charles Read more
Don't put the nozzle of the pump so far into the car filler and/or do what AE suggests at the same time
'Driver' aged three in pond drama
news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/north_east/7606019.stm Read more
I recall a friend trying to start an automatic Cortina, which was in gear and without the handbrake. He ran a live straight from the battery to the starter, which had the desired effect but as the car was in gear when it started (no safety locks on ATs in those days) it chased him up the drive and across the garden and only stalled when it a brick wall which its hapless owner had managed to vault
karen
The first thing to check is the fluid level in the autobox.
The handbook will give you the procedure - follow it to the letter, as the level is critical.