August 2008
This car seems to be playing up something rotten recently, so I thought I'd put a post up.
The main thing I've noticed just recently is that, on startup, the oil pressure light flickers about 1-2 seconds after the engine fires. Additionally the engine management light appears and disappears intermittently (both of these happened at around the same time, about 250 miles ago). Assuming a sensor glitch when the engine management light first appeared I was going to wait until the MOT (due Sep 12th) but I'm not so sure now.
The engine is running normally and the oil level is just under the max -- exactly where it was 5000 miles ago when the car was last serviced.
Additionally, about 2000 miles ago the light that tells you when the screenwash is low stopped functioning. Again this didn't bother me at the time, but all these things happening almost together has got me wondering if there is not something more serious going awry behind the scenes.
Car is a 1.8 Nissan Primera Mk3 (QG18DE engine), 220,000 miles, with unknown service history from 80,000 to 190,000 miles. Read more
Simple questions on behalf of work colleague who has mislaid the owners manual:
1) when should the cambelt be changed? Car is year 2002 with 49K on the clock
2) what is the "second" dipstick for on the R/H front side of the engine?
Thanks in anticipation. Read more
1/ MkIII Mondeos are all chain cam so dont need a cam belt change, that is 1.8 and 2.0 4cyl petrol, 2.5 and 3.0 6cyl petrol and 2.0 and 2.2 diesel. 2000 to 2007.
2/ Yes, the other dipstick will be the auto fluid level, should be a red fluid.
My nearly eight year old MD E320CDI is getting slow to start in the mornings.
It has now got 214,000 miles on the clock, but has always been serviced every 10,000 miles. I have today filled up with a tank full of BP Ultimate and given it a bit of an Italian tune-up.
Any ideas what might be the problem? Or is it time to say goodbye? Read more
And battery condition.
No diesel will start if the cranking speed is too low because the compression-generated heat dissipates into the cold block faster than it is gained from the rate of change of piston position.
659.
Its an '02 automatic diesel with over 100,000 miles on the clock
I have had problems from new, where the engine occasionally misfired and then stalled when approaching a junction. Worse when cold. Engine is very rattly at about 1700 - 2000 revs and sounds like a taxi.
Glowplug comes on occasionally 1 or 2x a day and turbo stops - ok after restart
Its been like this pretty well since new and has been back to Ford loads of times, in the end I learnt to live with it as it is, but I will never buy another Mondeo - shame really as this was my fourth in a row
Recently I drove to Spain and I learnt some more about these problems.
Running on cruise control at 80 mph, the misfiring occurs when cresting the brow of a hill or whenever the load comes off the engine, its a momentary misfire and then continues running ok.
Ford had remapped the injectors and loaded new software more times than I care to think about, so its probably not that.
I averaged 46 mpg over the trip to Spain, running at 80 ish all the way so there cannot be much wrong with the car, but it would be nice to figure out what the problem is once and for all
Any ideas? Read more
Some ideas
Leak from intercooler pipe the inlet manifold, lift off the plastic engine cover, if its leaking there'll be soot over the engine.
Camshaft sensor
A dodgy electrical connection which could be on any of the sensors. There's a lot of them.
VVT actuator on the turbo
It may be worth finding a diesel specialist rather than a Ford dealer to look at it.
I have just returned from holiday. I drove the car to the airport no problems. On our return pick car up after two weeks in car park. Start driving home, no heating of any sorts. Air conditioning works fine plenty of icy cold air but no heat. Any suggestions about possible cause?
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No the heater flap servos are fine. There is absolutely no heat coming from any where, which you would expect even if the flaps were u.s.
1) I only have one key for the car, so was thinking of buying a spare. The car is a 1998 318 coupe. Would the local keycutting shop be able to supply one or will it have to be purchased from BMW and synced to the car?
If it is from the main dealer than what should i expect to pay?
2) I have a alarm fob but this does not lock/unlock the car. At first i thought the battey may be a little weak, so i replaced this. The LED lights up on the fob but the car does not pick up the signal. Any ideas?
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Hi
MOT failure with garage suggesting easiest to just swop rear trailing arms with kit. I have Haynes, but wondered if anyone knew of weblink to this routine job on Puntos.
Ta Read more
Thank you. Just what I wanted. I did try searching on this forum, but unsuccessfully.
Thank you very much for making the effort.
Hey all,
I've got something here that I can't quite get my head round. It looks like i've got a leak on my 1999 Astravan. The Engine started running very hot yesterday so I stopped, let it cool, checked the expansion tank and it was empty. Judging by the amount it took it had all gone. I checked the oil cap, the exhaust and for bubbles in the expansion tank and no sign that the HG was about to depart, so tentatively ruled that out. However, when she's cold if I fill the expan' tank, once the lid is on she'll continue to drip for a while then stop. If I start the engine she'll start to drip again, but after a while, once the engine has been off, she'll stop again. However, if I open the expansion tank cap, even momentarily, she'll start to drip again. The problem is that I can't see where the drip's are coming from. When running at speed she's going through coolant at some speed, but from where? It's not the rad because it's too far back. The coolant's coming out very very clean, no oil, no rust or debris etc. Do you think it could be the bottom hose, or maybe the water pump? Why does it start again when the cap is removed? Someone suggested Radweld but i'm really not to keen on that idea to be honest. I would be extremely grateful for any thoughts.
Monkey Read more
Coolant pressure test is required
Then you will see the leak!
apologies if this is old news - spotted the information today. Does the BR think it's worthwhile, or is it another way to make money from motorists' paranoia?
(btw I have no connection with the supplier, never even heard of them before now)
'Retainagroup, the car security marking and registration systems specialist, is working with Ford to provide a simple yet effective method of permanently marking catalytic converters to give them a unique identity.
Criminal gangs across the UK are stealing catalytic converters from vehicles at an increasing rate. The precious metal content (usually platinum) fetches around £100 for just a few minutes' work. Previously there was no way of identifying one converter from another, so thieves ran a low risk of being charged, even if caught.
Each mark, applied to the casing of the catalytic converter, comprises a logo (the manufacturer's or Retainagroup's International Security Register), a unique seven-digit code and a 24-hour telephone number. Once the mark has been applied, the unique code is recorded with vehicle and owner details on the register and can be verified immediately at any time, day or night, 365 days per year. The service is free except for the cost of the call and means that thieves stealing a marked and registered converter will put themselves at risk of being apprehended and charged.
Marking and registration packs will be available from Ford dealerships either as individual customer kits priced at £11.87 inc VAT, or 'fleet packs' containing marking material for 30 vehicles, priced at £136.85 inc VAT.
Paul Lambotte, Head of Unit for the Association of Chief Police Officers (ACPO) Vehicle Crime Intelligence Service (AVCIS) said: "The theft of catalytic converters has become an increasing problem for vehicle owners. This crime disables the vehicle and has an environmental impact. AVCIS welcomes initiatives, such as catalytic converter marking, that enable the identification of stolen goods that are found in criminals' possession."
DC Ian Elliott of the Metropolitan Police Stolen Vehicle Unit added: "Such a proactive approach by Ford and Retainagroup to something that is heading towards epidemic levels in the UK ought not to go unrecognised. It is public spirited initiatives like this, working in partnership with local crime reduction officers, which enable acquisitive crimes such as catalytic converter theft to be significantly reduced. Due to the items being traceable, they are less attractive to thieves because the perpetrators stand a significant risk of being caught and charged.'
Read more
Saw a report recently saying 80-85% of all theft/mugging etc. is related to drug addiction.
A friend has a mk 3 GTI. If she puts on the rear wiper, the wiper will only stop if she turns the engine off first, then turns the switch off.
Any ideas what might be causing this. A relay or dodgy wiring somewhere? Read more
Its an intermittant wiper, press the stalk forwards to start the wiper, press forwards again to stop it, you need to press forwards for a fraction of a second to stop otherwise it washes and wipes the window and continues intermittantly.
Its not a fault, it how it works, its in the cars handbook
;o)
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I'd forgotten all about this post...!
Sounds like I'd better get it looked at. If it is the ECU going bonkers it's probably best to get shot before the bill arrives.