February 2008
My daughter has Fiesta 1,25 Ghia. Sometimes the speedo stops working and sticks at 10mph. After a while it starts working again. Iv changed the cable but the problem is still there. Has anyone experienced this problem themselves or got any ideas on where to look next? Thanx Read more
Indicator float on the LHM reservoir seems to be stuck at the top of it's travel. Even with the ride set high and the indicator and associated connections raised out of the reservoir it still does not move.
Is there any secondary means of checking (eg visible fluid at normal or lowered ride height)?
Guess I'll have to get it down to the garage later in the week; they can check the fualt codes as well since the K light still illuminated from time to time.
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I've had the odd sticky float. Judicial application of the "meat" hammer usually works.
A couple of days ago I saw a Nissan Cube on trade plates in, of all places, Stanley, Co. Durham. Impressed however to see this weird but sensible car in the flesh. Made my Panda look like a sleek coupe! Read more
There's a pale blue on in manchester - seen it a few times looks quite cool though odd...
Is it possible to fit more than 45 litres of fuel into the tank of a 106?
Its a 45 litre tank and we got over 48 litres of diesel in at the station today! It was only just on the red too!
It just makes me think wether the petrol station pumps are callibrated correctly and are we getting ripped off even more with increasing fuel prices? Read more
yes it is possible to get more than the stated tank size into a car. Remember some is held in the fuel lines plus the actual filler neck holds a fair amount too.
Does the panel think that there will come a point soon when band G cars used prices will be severely hit.
I'm thinking of buying a band G (legacy 3.0) and i will not pay the £400 rip off tax, so i will buy as recent up to March 06 reg date as i can get.
This oviously affects all band G vehicles, at what vehicle age will the price difference become apparent to all between say a 55 plate car at £210 tax (i think) and a 06 plate car at £400 tax (that'll probably go up anyway as they bash the devilish motorist a bit more).
I imagine there will come a point when you wont be able to give a band G away if after Mar 06.
Have the traders amongst us noticed the problem yet or are they keeping quiet.
Or indeed will the band G £400 be backdated to all band G cars (please feel free to delete that sentence if you think it'll give them any ideas). Read more
£400 for band G may seem a lot, but when you consider that the extra over band F is peanuts compared with the real total yearly cost of running a car it puts it into perspective. If I really wanted a band G car £400 tax wouldn't deter me. I'd make my decision based on all the other running costs.
Just been for a poke around the new model at the dealership. Needless to say longer, wider than the old model. Dash is taken from A6/A5, but from a five minute sit in it it looks very fussy - buttons all over the place. In dash, around steering wheel, climate control in centre console, then all the audio and other gubbins by the gearstick.
No drive yet as they are waiting until next Saturday so they can be 08 registrations, but they have a 2.0TDi 140 common rail model on demo.
One in the showroom was a "factory build test" 3.0TDi with nearly all extras and came in at an eyewatering £45,000. Read more
Could it be due to the 3 series and Mondeo being better drivers cars?
I really need some advice or help here. The car is an S-Reg Volvo V70 T5 and when the engine is switched on it idles at between 2,000 rpm and 3,500 rpm. It is consistently revving up and down between the rpm I just mentioned. When I put my foot on the accelerator so as to drive it, it just stalls. This means I have to start the engine again but the same thing happens. Its been in dry-dock for 3 weeks now and no one seems to have a clue. The first theory was the fuel pump...that appears to be fine. The next theory was the engine management system but that has been tested and it is fine. Does anyone else have any other theories?
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It sounds very much as if you are suffering from a well known petrol Volvo problem. This is a cut and paste from volvoforums.org.uk. You can easily join and post a question there for further advice from those in the know.
"Make sure the car engine doesn't "hunt" when idling with the climate on or off. The car should have a dead level idle which will fluctuate a little when the aircon pump kicks in. If the car revs rise and fall erratically then this is an indication of the electronic throttle module at early stages of failure. They can be cleaned out which can sort the problem but bear in mind if it's at a more advanced stage it going to be a £700 part from Volvo plus labour. Again, if the car is a real peach then use it as a bargaining tool rather than walking away from the car."
Also with the ETM they can fail without warning and at any time, it has even been known for new ones to not work properly when fitted.
I hope whatever it is does not prove too costly for you. MGs
I really need some advice or help here. The car is an S-Reg Volvo V70 T5 and when the engine is switched on it idles at between 2,000 rpm and 3,500 rpm. It is consistently revving up and down between the rpm I just mentioned. When I put my foot on the accelerator so as to drive it, it just stalls. This means I have to start the engine again but the same thing happens. Its been in dry-dock for 3 weeks now and no one seems to have a clue. The first theory was the fuel pump...that appears to be fine. The next theory was the engine management system but that has been tested and it is fine. Does anyone else have any other theories?
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Do NOT USE apray's containing silicon as this will cause permanent damage to the oxeygen
sensor's. That includes using engine bay enhancement sprays to make evrything look bright & shiney!
Make sure a propellant you are using does not contain any silicon lubricant.
IJ
Take your point on that, but I thought WD-40 was just an oil blend. It certainly does not as much lubrication behind as some of the teflon type sprays. I did use ether (in quickstart) to get going in desperation once, but I wouldn't recommend that one a warm/hot engine.
I have an in car DVD player with twin screens that clamp onto the headrests. You know the sort of thing! Keeps the kids entertained on long journeys. Who says family interaction is dead ! :)
Anyway, reading a recent Auto Express, they tested in car TV receivers, basically these just plug into the AV socket of the DVD player and hey presto you have Freeview TV channels. Reception is through a magnetic aerial mount on roof.
Now it is probably Sunday morning syndrome, feel the need to look at gadgets as I am bored waiting for the footie to start. However, having said that, has anyone any experience of these sort of products? Here is an example that did well in the AE test
tinyurl.com/2b4n2t
However I am sure the test was not driving from one end of the country to the other, just wondering if anyone has tried something like this, does it work or is the picture constantly losing signal, searching for signal etc?
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Number plate Scrabble. Think of a word using all the letters on a passing number plate in the correct order, bonus score for proper names, double bonus if the letters form an actual word.
Prevents terminal boredom for an hour or so.
I have a Y Reg Vectra DTI & I am experiencing a power problem when the car first fires up in morning or when left for a couple of hours. The car starts fine, does not misfire and seems ok until you attempt to accelerate. There is hardly any power at all in acceleration right through the gears. Sometimes I have to pull over to allow cars behind to pass as it takes a while to reach 30 mph!! After a few moments driving it bursts back into life. If I leave the car running for a couple of minutes however this problem is non existent and I can drive away as normal. There are no faults displaying on the dash.Is this a common fault and is there a remedy or is it a number of faults and a costly exercise to eliminate each one?Thanks in advance for any advice Read more
possible maf, you could disconnect it and see if there is a slight improvement, however this will put the eml light on on the dash, how do you know there are not any codes stored,possible vac leak/pump problem ! there are to many variables as to what it could be and throwing parts at it is exspensive and the wrong way to diagnose,best to find a garage that knows these vehicles and start there
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If it's sticking at 10, then I'd be thinking of trying a second-hand pod.