September 2006
can anyone tell me whether i can change my 1.4 cvh engine for a 1.6 zeta engine frome a 94 injection from a car?
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Hi guys
I am posting this on behalf of my brother in law who has a problem with a Ford diesel Mondeo that is rapidly spiraling out of control. He is becoming depressed about it so I am trying to get some information to help him.
The story is that at the start of this year he purchased an exactly three year old Mondeo diesel, 2 litres. The car was purchased from a small scale car supermarket and was an ex lease car with a full Ford service history and nothing untoward in the documentation. He also bought a 12 month warranty with it (not from Ford). The car has done about 60thousand miles.
After 4-6 weeks it started to run badly and he took it back to the dealer who invoked the warranty. Some software was updated and a small part replaced and it was returned to him. After a month the problem resufaced. The problem was said to be an 'injector fault'. After keeping the car for three weeks whilst they replaced parts it was returned to him. The warranty company paid for this repair.
It then ran ok for another 2-3 months but then started to misbehave again. Basically it sometimes loses all power and sometimes there is no throttle response - sometimes there is. He has a long commute and this is clearly dangerous.
He took the car to a Ford dealer who kept the car for a week and couldn't locate the problem. It was then sent to a diesel specialist who have stated that it needs a new fuel pump and several other items at a cost of 'more than £1000'. They also say that they cannot 100% guarantee that this will fix it becasue they say that diesel Fords are quirky and there could be additional work required.
He has contacted the dealer who state that because he has had the car more than six months, and it is a different fault to the original one, they are not liable.
The warranty company say there is a limit to how much they will pay out and he has reached that limit with the previous repairs, so they are washing their hands of it.
He has approached Ford (because it has always been serviced by Fords) but they say that it is out of warranty and therefore entirely his problem.
So the questions for the experts in the backrooms are-
1. Is it right that the dealer has no liability after 6 months, even though the fault is very similar to one that occured after just a few weeks following purchase.
2. Is it right that the warranty company can restrict their payout, I believe it is something like £700 that they have paid out.
3. Do you think that replacing the fuel pump is likely to correct this fault.
My brother in law borrowed money to buy the car and may now have to borrow again for these repairs. He is also struggling to get to work, which is causing major family problems.
Cheers.
Ashley. Read more
I agree with a lot of the comments posted recently... my girlfriend's Clio DCi is an absolute pig to drive in traffic, it lurches forward, then stops dead and nearly stalls (just with light throttle movement), then when you need some heavy acceleration absolutely nothing happens for a good second! It also runs as rough as hell when cold, but apparently all this is normal.
The old Pug 205D it replaced smoked a bit on a cold start, but ran fine, had good throttle response and was a lot easier and more pleasant to drive. Economy is the only factor where the Renault wins, and as the engine design is nearly 20 years newer, this is perhaps to be expected. CR is one step forward, 2 steps back IMO. I'm dreading any fuel system problems which might arise in future, £1000 for a new Delphi pump doesn't sound appealing.
Well come on, who's driven it..?
Is it really the answer all our prayers..? A car that delivers power like a diesel with less lag,
less noise, no 'anvil' over the front wheels and respectable economy...
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Excellent point and I have had a similar weekends experience of the GTi some time ago and really enjoyed it. In many ways the smaller GT is less 'hard edged' and for everyday driving maybe more user friendly.
Anyone got any clue as to the firing order of a peugeot 406 turbo (wasted spark)
pic would be fantastic Read more
Most coil packs fire 1&4,2&3.You may find on the pack(in very small print)a number close to each coil connector.
i have a 2001 306 hdi that when i pull of it has this horrible 'grinding' sound on the drivers side front.
It sort of sounds like when you get wheel spin on gravel.
It happens when i pull off but all when the clutch is fully released, if i slow down and then accelerate it also happends upto 2nd gear. This leads me to think its not the clutch
I checked that the cv joint wasnt dry but i cant think what it is.
I have some play in the rac end of the track rod which will be fixed but i dont think that this would cause a noise on acceleration would it?
any ideas? Read more
Hello, I'm just about to sell a 1995 Vauxhall Cavalier 2.0i 16V SRi and ebay for my sister-in-law and have just noticed it hit's the rev limiter at 4500 rpm and then misses.
When you start it, it pops and bangs a bit then runs fine until you rev it.
The Orange engine mangerment light is on which i knew and and had said in my listing.
Does anyone know why it does this and is there a quick easy way to fix it?, it shoud rev to 6000 rpm.
The car hasn't been used for at least 6 months also.
Cheers
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I had a 96 Vectra from new, later version of same engine, I had this fault, engine management light, I recall the handbook said it would have a 4500 rev limit.
The crank sensor was replaced under warranty though in the IME normal Vaux dealer style they bodged the repair by routing the new crank sensor cable across the engine with a couple of cable ties. I took it off myself and rerouted through the convoluted though correct and protective series of clips and channels.
Cleaning the sensor may help, otherwise a DIY fit is easy and unlike some cars the light *should* reset itself.
Hello all, looking for some cheap BRANDED! (e.g. Mich, Bridge, Pirel, Conti) tyres 225/40/R18/V rated tyres, looked on blackcircles can't think of anyone else? Read more
dunno where u live,,but i always use protyre and/or bathwick
tyres they are the cheapest in the area by FAR..
asked for some PIRELLI 205/55 16R's the
other day protyre was £65 inclusive
and Quikfit was £110 inclusive..
quikfit said they must have been selling them at a loss??
but Bathwick were selling at £66 inclusive
www.storme.co.uk
I hope you dont live in Bristol because your first statement would be incorrect. However if you live in Portsmouth or Exeter where I believe both these companies are represented you may be correct. The going rate in Bristol for 205/55vr16 pirelli is £61.99...
As to the original question the only V rated 225/40r18 tyres are probably Nankang. All european makes are either W Y or Z. You should be looking around the following prices Fully Fitted inc valve and balance....
Avon ZZ3 or ZZ3 xl £86.99 Bridgestone re050 £117.99
Continental sport contact 2 or 3 xl £123.99 Goodyear F1 or Excellence £111.99
Firestone TZ200 £91.99 Michelin Pilot Sport2 xl £128.99
Pirelli P Zero Rosso £116.99 Uniroyal Rainsport xl £94.99
Dunlop SP 9000 £99.99
Dunlop SP01 £121.99
Dunlop SP Max £ 128.99
Marshal/Kumho £79.99 Budget £59.99
Hope this helps.....
I have a P reg Xantia.
The rear suspension works fine but the front suspension is stuck in full height all the time!
The front sphere has a wire running to what looks like a solenoid, this clicks from time to time and gets hot, is this the problem or a result of another fault elswhere?
Marc Read more
Thanks for the help!
Managed to get under the car and saw that the whole set up was out of sorts, the rod was moving ok but did not appear to be doing anything.
Was able to get the car lowered into a drivable position and get it to the local garage, they told me that I needed a part replacing ( still trying to translate what it is from Spanish!) cost about ?200 all in.
many thanks.
Hi, what is the most underpowered car that any of you have heard of or come across. I heard something about the Saab 9000 being bad but the car - by - car - breakdown doesn't point that out.
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Only 987hp for a Veyron?
I'll cancel my order!!
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Colin-E
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I'm having repeated grief from the clutch cable on my RHD 1987 D-Reg Scirocco GTX. That cable had already been replaced twice in the past 10 years (I don't know, is that normal?). Each time it simply broke. On a third incident the cable was so stiff, that it didn't break itself but tore through the bulkhead - which in turn had to be welded. The cable remained stiff and you could actually hear the friction when the pedal was depressed. A local garage applied some WD40 to both ends of the cable and it worked more smoothely for a while, but now the friction noises are back. Is this a losing battle or is there a simple solution somewhere? Read more
Most cables are nylon-coated and grease won't do that any good.
Should also add that 1.6 cvh gave 96 bhp. to 90bhp on 1.6 zetec-power was restricted to give better emissions.