May 2006
Now that the 'New' Mini has been about for a few years it almost defines the 'Mini' look, so that when one does see an original 'real' Mini on the road it now looks tiny and quaint.
I always thought of the new Mini as a bit of a pastiche and wondered what Sir Alec Issigonis would have thought of it.
I found a photo on the net that indicates he might well have approved. This photo shows that the original Mini styling was cribbed from a larger BMC design that didn't get near to production, a rear-drive saloon!!!
Take a look -
www.austin-rover.co.uk/images/ado17dev_03.jpg Read more
I am having trouble siphoning the tank of my VW Golf Mark II,
does it have an anti siphon tank fiited?
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i though they had something in the filller neck...i couldnt siphon mine
if you lift the boot carpet, theres a round plate held on with 3 screws , pull that and its easy access to the tank...dunk your pipe in there
My 1998 Civic 1.4 (base model with keep fit windows) owners manual is quite informative, but seems to state that the screw and locknut valves get looked at once at 24,000 miles and never again. Anyone out there know about these engines? This particular car has a very low mileage, and I checked the valves last year and only one neeeded slight adjustment. Read more
Nick,
Haynes manual for my 1996 1.5 lsi (16v sohc) suggests valve clearance check/adjust every 24k or 2 yrs.
Ed.
SWMBO is travelling North on Friday. Can any BRer tell me if the A43 roadworks between M40 and M1 are still ongoing (dreadful word) please?
Last time we went that way it was a complete pain. Read more
Agree, gone. Work completed on time.
Posted in the discussion section as it is more a brain teaser for us older techies than a serious problem.
Having owned and maintained my Rover P4 90 for over 30 years it doesn't hold many surprises any more. However today when retrieving it from its winter hibernation and pressing the starter button just got a click from the solenoid, no problem, obviously flattish battery, so to check this I switched on the headlamps and tried again.
To my amazement the starter then whirred into life. To double check I repeated the whole process, again the starter would only turn when the headlamps were on.
Now that the car has been run up and is out in the sunshine everything is working normally, but what happened originally? The starting circuit is ridiculously simple; an ignition controlled supply feeds the separate solenoid ( unfortunately not the type with a rubber push button ) via the push type starter button. No doubt it was a poor connection somewhere but why should switching on the headlamps correct this?
It is more a puzzle than a problem, I can always revert to the starting handle, but I don't like electrical mysteries as it might be the prelude to a more serious problem, maybe it was a Freudian sniff but I got a whiff of ozone during the process..
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One mans junk is another mans treasure Read more
many motorcycles still have a separate starter solenoid - and they can still cause the described problems.
I still remember the 'joys' of kick starting a sick Velocette 500.
Daughter #1 has a Punto 55, and we insured it in her name when she got it, before she passed her test. Passed 6 months ago, and just renewed her insurance, for £460 TPFT. She's 18, it's kept on the drive, no mods, no accidents/convictions.
I did go to confused.com to get prices, and the company she was with in year 1 was about £200 more expensive. Year 1 was £735.
I was still pelasantly surprised at £460 - how much more might it come down if she keeps a clean record? Read more
Current best quote for my next year: £1155.
I love insurance, it's so reasonably priced.
Yep, you get completely unlimited cover for just £1000.
Just realised that the Porkers RFL is due 1st May & more importantly haven't had a reminder. It seems from some of the other forums I'm on that this is happening more often, so make sure you keep a note of when it's due as other wise you'll be fined. Just done it on line although system was down last night, "for essential maintenance", sounds like we need to design them some none stop computing!
They wouldn't want you to forget so they get your fine money.... would they
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Thanks for that, I'll dig it out and give it a try after the 15th and report back.
Hi
I own a 1996 VW Golf GTI 3 door that while mainly sound has a couple of unsightly rust spots on the bottom corners of each door, i've decided that im gonna take care of them,and respray the affected areas.
i've never done this before so any Advice / Pointers will be greatly appreciated, ie : What Products are best to use, whats the best technique, and after all the money spent on products is it just worth paying for someone to do it for me .
Cheers
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If the rust has come from inside - and you'll find this out when you rub it down with course paper and/or stiff wirebrush in a drill then you will never make a satisfactory repair without reskinning it. Possibly better trawling the breakers yards/ebay for a pair of doors in the same colour but better condition???
Martin
Hi All,
I've just purchased a brand new Skoda VRS. Its a great car but I started to notice (after only 50 odd miles) that when sitting idle the car was shuddering. I proceeded to look under the bonnet and the engine appeared to be rocking back and forth a bit more than what you would consider normal (on a petrol that is - and I know this is a diesel). You really feel it through the steering wheel and seats when it occurs.
Activating the A/C stops the shuddering as to with the blower. I went for a brisk drive down the motorway and then came to a stop and it did'nt do it but later on it came back.
I'm to two minds whether to report this to the dealer or bear with it till I get some higher miles on it and put it down the car needing to be run in some more?
Apart for that it picks up fine and is faultless.
Comments appreciated. Read more
Go to the Briskoda forum at www.briskoda.net/forums/
Lots of experts on VRS's there.
I have a BMW 318 E36 that is 11 years old, and was regularly used up until 12 months ago when it was replaced (but not sold). The MOT expired in October 05, and it has been effectively laid up on my drive, exposed to the full nasties of the British winter since then. The last time the engine was started was 6 months ago at least.
I would like to get it back on road so it can be sold, but in view of the last 8 months neglect, what do I have to do to get it up for its MOT? I don't think it will be quite as simple as a jump start.
Grateful for any thoughts
David Read more
importantly the brakes will almost certainly be rusted over to a
point where they will need replacing before driving it.
Not necessarily. My car had done only 4000 miles from new in 16 months and the discs were well corroded, so I've no doubt it had stood idle for a long period of time ~ perhaps for as much as 12 months. I was a bit careful for the first 100 miles or so but there's never been any ptoblem with the brake performance. With use the front discs have cleaned up satisfactorily and the rears are only very slightly questionable. No flat spots on the tyres either. The car was given a standard 12 months service by the selling dealer to bring the service record up to date but that was all it got before I drove it.
--
L\'escargot.
Yep, thought so :
www.mini2.com/article343-mini-concept-travelling-i...l
How's this for rubbish nonsense marketing babble :
"...increased functionality in order to appeal to the distinctively experience-oriented and active MINI customer."
Am I experience oriented? Sounds great.
Lee -- You don\'t sell the steak, you sell the sizzle