May 2006
I?ve got a Nissan Primera (2002) ? and a week or so ago the battery warning light came on. The AA came round and found out that the alternator was pumping out 18Volts ? hence the regulator had gone.
Anyway, I took it to a local garage who tried to locate a replacement Alternator ? but couldn?t ? and Nissan wanted to charge £300 plus for a replacement plus fitting!
The garage called me and asked what I wanted to do ? I contacted a breakers yard (via the ?net) who dispatched a replacement Alternator (from 2005 plated wreck).
When fitted, the garage have told me that the Alternator is still pumping out 15Volts (over the 14.5V maximum it should be). They tell me that the only thing that could cause this is another faulty Alternator.
I just can?t believe that I could be so unlucky to get two Alternators with the same problem? Especially as I?m led to believe that Alternators go wrong so rarely on Nissans? To me this suggests another problem.
Any ideas what this could be? Or do I just have to bite the bullet and get another Alternator?
Cheers for any advise!
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Can anyone give me advice on a Renault Scenic cam belt change. It?s a 1.9 turbo diesel. Got the right engine mount off and the engine on a jack and I've undone the belt cover but there?s no room to get the cover out. Tried levering the engine away from the bulkhead with a gurt bar but still can?t get the covers out. Car's now on stands and I can't use it. Anyone out there done a belt change? Any advice gratefully received. Thanks. Read more
Ask on Renault Forums, a few mechanics help out.
If this is the dCi engine then you must replace the auxilliary drive belt at the same time.
Im looking to replace my Volvo S80 with a similar type saloon.Generally speaking i was happy with my Volvo S80 apart from a few problems here and there. i think its time to replace it while i can still salvage a lil bit of value.
I'm looking for advice as to which ca i should get next. I was setting my eyes on the high mileage Jaguar x-types which are on Auto trader, or Mercedes C clas or E class. My budget is a max of 8 grand..Any ideas.I really dont mind high mileages as long as the car in good condition because im not buying to keep it for life..a few years and i will pass it on and move to another. Are those Jags on Auto trader going for 5grand to 8grand any good?? Some of them are barely less than 5 years old.
My volvo was a high maleage car i bought it with 125k miles and im selling it now at 148K and it was a good car and it didnt cost me a lot. Read more
Its to do with road safety. The Mercedes mascot is very thin. has no sharp egdes and is desgined to flatten on impact, Rolls Royces spirits dissappear into the grill on impact, but the design of the original leaper was such that it would tear into someone like a knife on impact and thus from the 1968 XJ6 Jag never designed a leaper on any of their cars.
This is not the end of the story though. The American market always wanted leapers on their Jags and dealers used to retro fit them onto all their XJ6s and XJ-S's. Thus for Jag America, from the 1995 X300 (new shape XJ6-XJ8) and for all subsequent cars onwards, the "safety" leaper was designed. This is a spring loaded leaper on a teardrop shaped base that breaks off on impact.
This was never sold in the UK, though is readily available from Ebay and such. I don't know for sure but would assume this is legal in the US since it is a manufactured part (my opinion), but as it was never formally sold in the UK i don't think it is legal to use in the UK.
For fitment on the XJ6/8's you have to drill the bonnet at a specific point. On the early s types from 1999 i think you can remove the bonnet "growler" and replace this with the leaper as it covers the hole for a leaper to be fitted. Later S types with the "growler" in the grill need the bonnet drilled. X types need a drilled bonnet.
On a personal note on the X300 i considered having a leaper put on, but two things stopped me.
1) The safety implications; it must be terrible to hit someone, but the penetrating injurys or deep lacerations caused by the "leaper" could lead to a survivable accident being fatal.
2) The cars were never designed with it in mind, they were added as an afterthought, so why put them on.
I have a 406 2.1 TD
Engine starts but there's no acceleration,
Any ideas?
Thanks,loz Read more
Hardly anything to go on; but fuel or exhaust blockage come to mind. MORE DETAILS please! Will it even rev-up stationary?
i own a '96 mk1 mondeo with a damaged sunroof glass. how easy is it to replace the glass. i feel the headlining needs to come off. Read more
As per the instructions AC-CoolC (who works for a windscreen company) gave you in discussion.
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=41757&...e
Hi
Can anybody tell me if the front suspension on the diesel model is the same as the 330i petrol model? Haynes do not do a manual for the diesel models yet.
Also in the Honest John 'what's bad' it says you have to replace the wishbone as well as the rear bushes when worn? Can anybody confirm or otherwise enlighten me?
Thanks Read more
www.e46fanatics.com/
On the front page they have an article on front control arms, there is also a DIY guide and within the forum itself, lots of info from members who have personal experience changing bits themselves. free to join and they have a good search facility.
Its a US site so diesel info is pretty much non-exisitent, but the suspensions will be the same, just don't get caught up with "driver's side" etc as of course it will be different to Uk cars
I have an October 2001 Micra that has done less that 6k miles. Well maintained, such as is needed for such low milage -- oil changed, antifreeze changed at 3 years, brake fluid at 2 years. Have to look very hard to see any blemish. What is a realistic price to ask for it in a weekly rag? -- No side tracking please as to the sense of the low use. Read more
Thanks oldman. Gatwick area here. Just taken the picture. Was going to give it a whirl in the Friday Add, to see what ticks.
Hi,
I wish to remove the radio cassette from this vehicle and fit a standard DIN E CD player. There are replacement facia plates available to suit the DIN fitting but how do I remove the existing unit? There are 2 small holes which I presume are the locking points. Any ideas on tool design etc?
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Its the standard din size removal tool. Halfords sell them
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
Further to my previous post asking about mpg on legacy/foresters, mpg seems pretty poor..
has anyone any experience of fitting LPG to one of these vehicles ?
Did a little research on the net and one or two people mention valve seat recession problems.
Someone else saying there is some gadget that can be fittted to the LPG system to feed in a valve lubricant additive - anyone know anything about this ??
Can anyone tell me if the spare wheeel well in these cars is in the boot floor (like most cars) so will take a wheel-well LPG tank or is it sat vertical in the side of the boot - apparently this is no good for the doughnut shaped tanks (not sure why ? is it mounting problems or because the take off point for the LPG is on the bottom of the tank which would then be up in the air if placed sideways ??)
Any knoweldge on this would be useful, as quite like thse look of these cars and would do exactly what I want, but the mpg is rather offputting.
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Maybe I go to the wrong filling stations, or maybe I'm just plain unobservant, but I've yet to see one that sells LPG.
--
L\'escargot.
I have a vauxhall astra(03)the bulb in the odometer appears to have blown.Does anyone know how I go about replacing the bulb. Read more
Here you go:-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=e&t=71...1
NOTE:- whatver you do, DON'T turn on the ignition with the dash clocks removed, otherwise you will have to pay a dealer to have your airbag light reset. I though I had better mention this as I didn't in my original posting.
And this is the bulb you're need:-
www.consumabulbs.com/files/bdet.php?id=63
Available from 99.9% of motor accessory shops.
Sometimes you can buy the bulb and holder complete, which can be the best way to do it as the bulb wires are often spotwelded to the holder connectors.
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who-harr
As oldman says: if there was originally a silver-calcium battery fitted, then "smart" alternators can initially charge at quite high voltages. [Though 18v is a bit too unusual?] Difficult I know, but did they happen to say where they were measuring this voltage; how long for - and is the battery warning light still on with the replacement unit?
If you've got the correct battery; 15+ volts after start-up is perfectly OK. It'll quickly destroy a conventional battery; so you have to be cautious when buying replacements - always safest getting the genuine part.