March 2005
Hi - any thoughts on a fix for old alloys where the tyre pressure drops over a period of a few months - would one of those emergency repair cans of goo help or would that just make matters worse. Of course checking pressures and inflating is the normal 'fix' at the moment... Read more
Hello Folks, just joined group and would like to know what fuel and oil that seems best for car as just got it.Was going to use Magnatec and also any info on fuel type,"ie" 95ron or 97ron,Thanks,
Chas1937 Read more
Hello guys i have a mitsibushi charisma1.8 gdi i have a verry strange poblem and i cant sort it had the ecu code read and they said the fuel rail sencor so i replaced it iv also changed the plugs ,coils ,mas and its still running terrible it will not rev past 4000 revs and shudders to be quite honest im stuck and need help thanks
Being the owner of a Rover 25 1.8 GTI, and having read about possible head gasket failure, I took out a warranty at the end of the dealers warranty period. Three weeks ago the water pump and head gasket failed and I have just picked my car up from the garage. The total repair bill was £718 of which I have paid £411 and the warranty company has paid the remaining £307. I thought that this warranty covered all eventualities (naively) but, in fact, the warranty company are only liable to pay for one failed item per claim. They choose which item they pay for i.e. Water pump or head gasket. I have paid for the new water pump, cam belt, thermostat, O rings, a proportion of the head gasket set, proportion of the head bolts, proportion of the antifreeze, the total cost of pressure testing the head and a proportion of the labour costs as the warranty company will only pay £34 per hour.
Now, I appreciate, that as I paid £300 for a years warranty cover then I have broken even but it was a nasty surprise having to pay out such an amount. It was also difficult to find a local garage to carry out the work. I advise anyone to check the small print much more closely than I did ! Read more
I don't understand how Rover have the nerve to sell a
car on which head gasket failures are common. Aren't they bothered
about their reputation?
--
No!
What reputation?
or "sorry Sir/Madam, that car was built when BMW were in charge".
I was out for a short while this evening, during which time I filled the car with fuel. Shortly afterwards, as I drove home, the multifunction display flashed up a message for a few seconds. It said that the diesel additive was at minimum. It only displayed the message once.
Does anyone know what this is referring to? I have a vague recollection that I have seen a mention of this somewhere, but I can't remember when or where. There is no mention in the handbook. The car has done approx 37K. Read more
In addition, I must say that £1600 is a bit outlandish.
Does anyone know why the 2.2 HDI engine needs a particulate filter in the first place? The 2.0 HDI doesn't need one as far as I know and I can't understand why they have persisted with this engine in the new C5 (auto version) when it is not used in the 407.
These cars are certainly not going to be popular as they get old, with this kind of expense cropping up periodically.
Just collected a 1.4 auto 2003 from the docks for wifey and the airbag light is staying on.
Anyone know how to check the codes or just reset the light?Otherwise it will be a visit to my local friendly Honda dealer.
Seems like a clever piece of design from Honda,nicely put together,smooth cvt auto.
Thanks in advance. Read more
I do not know if the same applies to the Jazz but the following works on a CRV (cut and pasted from the internet source when I had this problem). It refers to a yellow plug in the "fuse box" under the steering column - remove the plug to see the terminals in the plug (there are none in the box, it just plugs in to keep it tidy) and insert a length of wire into each so that you can short/unshort the terminals at will. If the dealer won't reset it free, it's probably worth a try. If it doesn't reset the light, then there could be a problem - I'm told that a frequent culprit is the "clock ring" at the top of the steering column but the fault code would confirm this.
-Short and hold the leads while you turn the ignition to on. The SRS Light will illuminate for a few seconds then go off.
-When the SRS Light goes off, unshort the wires. The SRS Light will come back on.
-Short and hold the wires again. The SRS Light will go off.
-When the SRS Light goes off, unshort the wires. The SRS Light will blink twice.
-Turn the ignition off.
-Start engine as normal. The SRS Light should illuminate for a couple of seconds as normal and then go off.
This series of shorting/unshorting needs to take place within a 4 second window of the SRS Light going on/off each time.
Should take 15 seconds or so for the whole procedure.
Hi,
I'm new here, but it seems the sort of place where I might find a solution to my car trouble.
I have a P reg Rover 214si, the newer shape that turned into the Rover 25.
The tyres should be kept at 30psi, but mine just will not inflate. They are currently stuck on 25-27psi and my footpump just won't touch it. I can pump away for ages and nothing goes in.
I bought a Halford compressor type thingy, plugs into the cigarette lighter and has a gauge on the front. This does not work either, no air gets into the tyres.
I have tried both pumps on a different car and they both work fine. I have tried adjusting how far I push their connectors onto the valves but to no avail.
Has anyone got any ideas what I could do? I really don't want to drive any long distances with the tyres 3-5psi under pressure. Hope you can help.
Thanks
David
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I have a seperate pressure gauge. Thanks for the help, I have now managed to fix the problem, it was a combination of two things:
1- The tyre valves were a bit sitcky, if I pushed the pin in the valve with my finernail it would hiss, but not as much as it used to. I used a small metal rod to push the pin harder, and suddenly whoosh, the air would flow freely.
2- I checked the footpump, and it didn;t seem to be blowing as much air out as I thoguht it should. So I sprayed a bit of WD40 on it to loosen the mech. After a few pumps it became freer and the flow of air increased.
The combination of these thing allowed my tyres to inflate, I have the manual's recommended 30psi in each corner.
Thanks for everyone's help
David
I've got an IS200 (90,000miles) and when I rev the car and the revs die down there's a rattling sound.
The car was recently serviced and the mechanic what's £100 tp open the engine to determin the problem.
Does anyone have an idea or even a guess as to what the problem could be?
Cheers
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Thanks, Aprilia, I thought someone would be along who knows the Lexus layout. As the water pump is driven by a "V" belt, I would have thought it would rattle more with worn bearings than if it was cam belt driven. 5 hours is a long time to change a belt unless the engine has to come out first!
Hi,
I've got a 306XRDT (1995 on an M) and need to disable the alarm to fit a replacement alternator.
Both the handbook and Haynes manual show that there should be a keyswitch under the bonnet to disable the alarm. The trouble is I've searched everywhere and can't find it !!! I haven't got a 'dedicated key', either.
When I disconnect the negative battery terminal the alarm starts sounding and I can only get it to stop by reconnecting the battery and turning the ignition on
Anyone know how I can disable the alarm to carry out the repair or how long the alarm will sound after disconnecting the battery?
Many thanks in advance,
Neil.
PS. Otherwise it's over to the garage so they can have the hassle !!! Read more
hope this helps
Yes, hopefully it will be of help to someone.
Neil however had the problem over 4 yrs ago and hasn't returned since posting this question.
Friday 18th. A45 dual carriageway heading from the M40 towards Northampton.
8 miles out from Towcester (tracked all this on my GPS) lorry pulls out to do the ridiculous slow pass we are all familiar with. However in this instance the lorry on the inside lane is faster than the overtaking lorry heading downhill but slower heading uphill. So outside lorry slowly pulls ahead and then inside lorry claws the ground back and then outside lorry inched ahead and so on. You get the picture.
They ended up being a rolling road block for 8 miles until the flat section heading down into Towcester where outside lorry manages to just get ahead of inside lorry and pull in just before the roundabout. So having held up traffic for 8 miles he ends up at a standstill at the roundabour literally 2 feet ahead of the vehicle he overtook.
Cars then stream past in the short section of road before the next roundabout hurling abuse and in one instance a can (missed) at the driver of the overtaking lorry. Its driver has wound down window to hurl abuse back and make hand gestures.
IMHO opinion this lorry driver is a selfish person whose parents never married and given his complete disregard for other road users a potentially very dangerous individual indeed.
Both lorries UK registered by the way and the overtaking lorry was plain white. Had it had marking I would have noted them and called the company concerned.
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An interesting interlude, which is now diving into silly ratholes. I'm locking it, although I shall leave it here since I think it makes interesting reading, certainly seeing both sides.
My mate has a Sprinter van which has started using water. As the warranty was about to expire, he took it into the local dealer to ask for their help with it. They replaced the head gasket, pressure tested the system and had the head tested too. Somewhat frustratingly for said mate, it still drinks about a litre every 150 miles and worse still the dealer isn't willing to offer further help as the warranty is up. They did pressure test it again for him, and pronounced it healthy.
I suggested he see a local air-conditioning firm to see if they would put some UV dye in the header tank in a bid to help him trace the leak. This was done, but still no signs of a leak or UV trace.
I think it could be a tiny hole in a pipe somewhere, but can't understand how evidence of the leak is proving so difficult to find.
Any ideas?
Eurocourier Read more
Read my post further up about testing for HC in the coolant header tank. This is a very cheap and highly reliable test for head leakage - if an engine is unaccountably losing water then always have this test done.
I assume that your mate is still getting the repair done for free - I don't see how the dealer could wriggle out of this. Or are they saying that this is a 'new' fault?
Browse
Andrew,
Having just googled,
I think it's something to do with the oxygen in compressed air that is generally used to inflate tyres. Aparantly oxygen permeates three times faster than the nitrogen though a rubber tyre.
snipurl.com/dpzn
Don't shoot me, I'm just the messenger ;o)