March 2005
I found something stuffed in my exhaust and pulled it but some is left in and i had a poke but it still seems to be there for good. I really dont know what to do.
help Read more
Earlier I was browsing for a new trailer. The one I have in mind is an Ifor William LT85 tipper or similar.
I used to work for a trailer company many moons ago and I know the mark up they put on these trailers.
So, just like vans etc, I was wondering whether anyone knows of a cash and carry type place for trailers, like there is for vans and cars etc.
Hugo Read more
BobbyG - Ifor Williams are specialists in livestock trailers. Go to any rural livestock mart & the sheep will all be being towed away in IW trailers on the back of 90 inch Landrover hard-tops.
Without IW, the world would have disintegrated by now!
Hi - any thoughts on a fix for old alloys where the tyre pressure drops over a period of a few months - would one of those emergency repair cans of goo help or would that just make matters worse. Of course checking pressures and inflating is the normal 'fix' at the moment... Read more
Andrew,
Having just googled,
I think it's something to do with the oxygen in compressed air that is generally used to inflate tyres. Aparantly oxygen permeates three times faster than the nitrogen though a rubber tyre.
snipurl.com/dpzn
Don't shoot me, I'm just the messenger ;o)
Hello Folks, just joined group and would like to know what fuel and oil that seems best for car as just got it.Was going to use Magnatec and also any info on fuel type,"ie" 95ron or 97ron,Thanks,
Chas1937 Read more
Hello guys i have a mitsibushi charisma1.8 gdi i have a verry strange poblem and i cant sort it had the ecu code read and they said the fuel rail sencor so i replaced it iv also changed the plugs ,coils ,mas and its still running terrible it will not rev past 4000 revs and shudders to be quite honest im stuck and need help thanks
Being the owner of a Rover 25 1.8 GTI, and having read about possible head gasket failure, I took out a warranty at the end of the dealers warranty period. Three weeks ago the water pump and head gasket failed and I have just picked my car up from the garage. The total repair bill was £718 of which I have paid £411 and the warranty company has paid the remaining £307. I thought that this warranty covered all eventualities (naively) but, in fact, the warranty company are only liable to pay for one failed item per claim. They choose which item they pay for i.e. Water pump or head gasket. I have paid for the new water pump, cam belt, thermostat, O rings, a proportion of the head gasket set, proportion of the head bolts, proportion of the antifreeze, the total cost of pressure testing the head and a proportion of the labour costs as the warranty company will only pay £34 per hour.
Now, I appreciate, that as I paid £300 for a years warranty cover then I have broken even but it was a nasty surprise having to pay out such an amount. It was also difficult to find a local garage to carry out the work. I advise anyone to check the small print much more closely than I did ! Read more
I don't understand how Rover have the nerve to sell a
car on which head gasket failures are common. Aren't they bothered
about their reputation?
--
No!
What reputation?
or "sorry Sir/Madam, that car was built when BMW were in charge".
I was out for a short while this evening, during which time I filled the car with fuel. Shortly afterwards, as I drove home, the multifunction display flashed up a message for a few seconds. It said that the diesel additive was at minimum. It only displayed the message once.
Does anyone know what this is referring to? I have a vague recollection that I have seen a mention of this somewhere, but I can't remember when or where. There is no mention in the handbook. The car has done approx 37K. Read more
In addition, I must say that £1600 is a bit outlandish.
Does anyone know why the 2.2 HDI engine needs a particulate filter in the first place? The 2.0 HDI doesn't need one as far as I know and I can't understand why they have persisted with this engine in the new C5 (auto version) when it is not used in the 407.
These cars are certainly not going to be popular as they get old, with this kind of expense cropping up periodically.
Just collected a 1.4 auto 2003 from the docks for wifey and the airbag light is staying on.
Anyone know how to check the codes or just reset the light?Otherwise it will be a visit to my local friendly Honda dealer.
Seems like a clever piece of design from Honda,nicely put together,smooth cvt auto.
Thanks in advance. Read more
I do not know if the same applies to the Jazz but the following works on a CRV (cut and pasted from the internet source when I had this problem). It refers to a yellow plug in the "fuse box" under the steering column - remove the plug to see the terminals in the plug (there are none in the box, it just plugs in to keep it tidy) and insert a length of wire into each so that you can short/unshort the terminals at will. If the dealer won't reset it free, it's probably worth a try. If it doesn't reset the light, then there could be a problem - I'm told that a frequent culprit is the "clock ring" at the top of the steering column but the fault code would confirm this.
-Short and hold the leads while you turn the ignition to on. The SRS Light will illuminate for a few seconds then go off.
-When the SRS Light goes off, unshort the wires. The SRS Light will come back on.
-Short and hold the wires again. The SRS Light will go off.
-When the SRS Light goes off, unshort the wires. The SRS Light will blink twice.
-Turn the ignition off.
-Start engine as normal. The SRS Light should illuminate for a couple of seconds as normal and then go off.
This series of shorting/unshorting needs to take place within a 4 second window of the SRS Light going on/off each time.
Should take 15 seconds or so for the whole procedure.
Hi,
I'm new here, but it seems the sort of place where I might find a solution to my car trouble.
I have a P reg Rover 214si, the newer shape that turned into the Rover 25.
The tyres should be kept at 30psi, but mine just will not inflate. They are currently stuck on 25-27psi and my footpump just won't touch it. I can pump away for ages and nothing goes in.
I bought a Halford compressor type thingy, plugs into the cigarette lighter and has a gauge on the front. This does not work either, no air gets into the tyres.
I have tried both pumps on a different car and they both work fine. I have tried adjusting how far I push their connectors onto the valves but to no avail.
Has anyone got any ideas what I could do? I really don't want to drive any long distances with the tyres 3-5psi under pressure. Hope you can help.
Thanks
David
Read more
I have a seperate pressure gauge. Thanks for the help, I have now managed to fix the problem, it was a combination of two things:
1- The tyre valves were a bit sitcky, if I pushed the pin in the valve with my finernail it would hiss, but not as much as it used to. I used a small metal rod to push the pin harder, and suddenly whoosh, the air would flow freely.
2- I checked the footpump, and it didn;t seem to be blowing as much air out as I thoguht it should. So I sprayed a bit of WD40 on it to loosen the mech. After a few pumps it became freer and the flow of air increased.
The combination of these thing allowed my tyres to inflate, I have the manual's recommended 30psi in each corner.
Thanks for everyone's help
David
I've got an IS200 (90,000miles) and when I rev the car and the revs die down there's a rattling sound.
The car was recently serviced and the mechanic what's £100 tp open the engine to determin the problem.
Does anyone have an idea or even a guess as to what the problem could be?
Cheers
Read more
Thanks, Aprilia, I thought someone would be along who knows the Lexus layout. As the water pump is driven by a "V" belt, I would have thought it would rattle more with worn bearings than if it was cam belt driven. 5 hours is a long time to change a belt unless the engine has to come out first!
Hi,
I've got a 306XRDT (1995 on an M) and need to disable the alarm to fit a replacement alternator.
Both the handbook and Haynes manual show that there should be a keyswitch under the bonnet to disable the alarm. The trouble is I've searched everywhere and can't find it !!! I haven't got a 'dedicated key', either.
When I disconnect the negative battery terminal the alarm starts sounding and I can only get it to stop by reconnecting the battery and turning the ignition on
Anyone know how I can disable the alarm to carry out the repair or how long the alarm will sound after disconnecting the battery?
Many thanks in advance,
Neil.
PS. Otherwise it's over to the garage so they can have the hassle !!! Read more
hope this helps
Yes, hopefully it will be of help to someone.
Neil however had the problem over 4 yrs ago and hasn't returned since posting this question.
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LOL, yes you can live with it, or replace the box.
I only know as about 5-6 years ago, I was going along the A1 in my then Mazda 626, and there was an almighty bang, followed by a dreadful rough sound, I pulled over imagining that my engine had destroyed itself, only to see what looked like long blonde hair coming out the exhaust, like a woman had got sucked in the air intake and was stuck in the exhaust! For a second my heart stopped! The back box had broken up inside and blocked itself and at that speed the pressure blew it open. I posted on the Mazda 626 board and was told it was the sound deadening.