November 2004
Long story short...
Fri pm - Travel from Swindon to Portsmouth (me, SWMBO, 3 kids and dog), no problems.
Couple of hours later and off to the pub, Galaxy ('97, 2.3 petrol) makes a fuss and won't start (always starts first time), I can hear some ticking from behind the dashboard. Just about to give up when it bursts into life. 30mile trip to pub (don't ask) and all's fine. Kicking out time, won't start - turns over and over but no sign of life. I get a lift back to Portsmouth.
Sat am - get a lift back to pub. Galaxy starts drives back to Pompey fine, no problems.
Sat pm - taking daughters to see other g'parents, Gal proceeds fine at first then after about 1 mile just stops completely. Will turn over and over but no life. AA man flummoxed, so he towed it to our (old) local garage in Portsmouth (we now live in Swindon - great!).
I need to call the garage in the morning to explain - would be glad of any pointers/advice?
Thanks, AdrianM Read more
Hi Yawll !
my bro-in-law is going to service my rover 75.
all it needs at 102K miles is oil + filter. but im going to change air filter as well.
he owns a garage and stamp for the service book
but... cant find out how to reset service indicator back to 15K miles
any one here know? or knows of someone to ask >?
i would be most grateful. i will owe them a pint or two!
also where is the oil filter on these things. havent looked yet, going to do it tomoorrow.
i have a replacement and its just the filter, not the housing.
i know this should go into technical forum, but i must admit. it wont get the coverage in there as it will do here.
sorry mods
or maybe move it to tech but leave a link from this forum to other?
thanks
going to trawl the web for hours now. maybe put post on mg-rover forum as well
Read more
i know this should go into technical forum, but i must
admit. it wont get the coverage in there as it will
do here.
But then again, you might get a Rover expert over there that doesn't look here.
That is the point of having the Technical Matters forum - So that questions of this nature don't end up getting lost in the general discussion here.
Believe it or not, some of the mechanics / technicians / home DIY'ers next door don't look on this side of the fence.
Anyway, I've seen you've solved the problem yourself anyway. Well done.
My wifes car is a 51 Scenic 2.0 16v petrol model. It has the 'smart' wiper system that switches the front wipers to intermittent when the vehicle comes to a standstill - only it has stopped doing that, and they are not smart any more. The wipers continue to wipe normally when the car is stopped. Yes, you guessed it, the car is now a few weeks out of warranty. Has anyone any suggestions what the problem may be? Read more
Thanks for the feedback Huschie. For information Renault claim that the overfilling of grease affected only a small batch of assemblies. However reports indicate this can happen on any Scenic 1 (facelifted and pre facelifted)
Some while ago, I saw a set of car ramps which allowed the top piece to be raised, once the car was in position. This allowed the use of the ramp by a car with a low front skirt, without damage. Anyone else seen it - or can remember who makes them? Many thanks, Adrian. Read more
I have just received an email from him. He is no longer making them for various reasons to do with manufacture and storage. The price was £150.
Seat Leon 20VT. When I first picked it up, it didn?t run very well, and the engine diagnostic light was on.
My local seat dealer was both helpful, and cheap. They diagnosed a faulty lambda sensor, which was replaced under warranty. The car ran better.
However, there is still a problem at idle. If I stop at traffic lights it is ok to start with, but the idle gradually becomes lumpy- the car feels as though it is "hunting". Sometimes the idle speed drops momentarily when this happens. Also it is "a bit jerky" when I lift off the gas to shift, when accelerating briskly.
I have recently replaced the spark plugs, but this has only improved things slightly (maybe just in my head).
I have heard from "experts" on a Seat forum that the above symptoms can be caused by a faulty, or dirty, airflow sensor. How does one go about cleaning one- I believe they are quite fragile? I have some iso alcohol around will that be suitable?
Is there any other problems that may cause some or all of the above problems? Wastegate...? Read more
Aprilia- i have had a good look at the steering and rack. On closer inspection i have realised i was completely wrong, you were right (not surprisingly). The steering column is fine.
There is a bolt on the universal joint that links the bottom of the intermediate shaft to the steering gear pinion shaft, that i could try tightening but i very much doubt it would make any difference. I think the problem is to do with this gear pinion shaft. Is this effectively part of the rack? Do i need a new rack?
I shall be driving it to newcastle tomo, so i hope it holds up. Everything seems to work ok, no problems moving the wheels from lock to lock with it off the ground on jacks/axle stands. All the rest of the suspension looks fine and the car is dead straight so i dont think it has had a whack. Just this damn play.
The car was first registered in march 02 and has 56k on the clock so should be in warranty (i have alrady had warranty work carried out on the car in the two months we have had it). However, i have already mentioned this fault twice while it was at the dealers, only to be told its all fine. How do you suggest i approach them? Or should i just go to another dealer?
I own a focus 1.6 zectec,which runs on goodyear eagle nct 195/60/15.i have found the road noise intrusive especialy on motorways.i am about to change both front tyres,has anybody tried a different brand and found them to be less noisy.
Read more
NCT 5's are not at all noisy - I've got a
full set on my Mondeo.
I had a Focus with P6000's on and found the road
noise unbearable. It was only marginally better on SP Sport
200E's.
Fact is the Focus is a noisy car with a harsh
ride - something that the motoring press seem to omit from
their "reviews"
SWMBO's Basic 1.8 TDdi CL model has P6000s on and it is very noisy, especially when you're sat in the back.
Anyone know of any car insurance companies (maybe on line ones) that will accept my 5 years NCB without asking for evidence? Elephant used to but no more. Read more
I used Norwich Union Direct when I first moved here last year as they were the only ones who would accept my US no-claims. Having said that, they have yet to ask for actual proof of it. I re-newed with them last month and still no mention of no-claims proof.
I am a bit miffed though as I went through hell to get anything off my US insurers as they use an insurance database to check individual records and they could not fathom why my next insurer could not just access that database. Even after explaining that I was moving overseas wasn't much help as they were adamant that the database could be accessed over the internet and there is internet access in the UK *sigh*
Ref; my May '02 Mondeo Ghia X TDCi 130. In 2.5 years and 82k miles I have had about 4 instances of the glow plug light flashing and the car taking two or three goes to start plus one instance where it went into 'emergency mode', I drove it to the dealer and they reprogrammed the ECU while I waited.
Today I had a different occurance, the glow plug light went out as normal however both the yellow frost and red ice warning lights stayed on even though it was 9degC by the outside temp indicator (they normally go out 4 or 5 seconds after the ignition is switched on unless the outside temp is 3degC or below). The engine turned over though did not start (as per if the glow plug light flashes). I swithched the ignition off and it started as normal second time.
Just wonder if the frost and ice warning lights staying on is a diagnostic code as per the flashing glow plug light? Read more
The code will always be stored if anything untoward happens. If there are no DTC codes stored then it will simply flash dTc NONE.
Mine for example had something up with the sender unit and never got reset and so flashes dTC 9202 even though there is no problem any more. Have you tried doing that for the code yet or not?
I'm afraid I don't know anything about the lights staying on.
--
Adam
Hello everyone,
it has been a while, which for me and my wee Pug 206 1.9 Diesel is something of an achievement.
Anyway the same probelm just new news. After about a year of misfiring and 'bucking' when I sit at 40 mph/50mph with my foot lightly on the gas, the garage finally diagnosed the problem as a clogged intake manifold. So under warranty they cleaned the ill part out..to good effect no problems since. Until now the problem is slowly creeping back in again..and no longer am I under warranty..
so two questions really, what is causing this and how easy is the intake manifold to clean bearing in mind I have used various fuel claeners to try and aid the situation..
Help, much appreciated!
Best,
Craig
Read more
The inlet manifold is upstream from the injected fuel so no connection there. Maybe a clogged air filter unless you have mice nesting in there? Seriously- a clogged manifold sounds like a garage fobbing you off. .
Not so fast !
I dont know about Pug diesels, but it is possible for this to happen on some other diesels due to crud from the EGR valve being fed back into the inlet manifold on gently driven diesels.
Someone asked me this the other day, and as someone who reckons they know a bit about cars and engines, I was horrified to admit, "I don't know". Every diesel I've driven has a red line and limiter at between 4,500 and 5,000 RPM instead of the 6,000-7,000 of a typical petrol engine of equivalent bore/stroke. Many modern turbodiesels are still pulling hard when the limiter calls an end to the fun, so does anyone have any idea why these engines are limited to such low revs?
Cheers in advance
DP Read more
Diesels are ideally suited to turbo charging. The deisel combustion process opearates at constant pressure (volume increases), unlike petrols which operate at constant volume (pressure increases). This means you can easily increase the starting pressure of the cycle (which is what a turbo charger does) without worrying about the compression ratio going completely to pot and the head exploding (OK it's not that easy, but the potential is there!).
Most modern TDs run about 1 bar boost pressure. This effectively means you put twice as much air in as running it at atmospheric pressure, and could in theory get twice as much power out. Obviously more power requires more fuel - BUT (and here's the really good bit!) as you raise the boost pressure the cycle efficiency goes UP, and you get more useful power out of the fuel burnt. So, when you chip a TD engine, the boost pressure is increased and the fuelling increased to match. The effect of higher boost pressure is that under the same driving conditions the potential exists to run the engine at higher efficiency and it uses less fuel. Nice! Of course if you chip the engine and then give it a bootful the whole time, economy is likely to suffer....
--
RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
Browse
Pleased to here you got it sorted .there is nothing more annoying than a fault like this that persistanly lets you down and left stranded.
rustbucket (the original)