Seat Leon 20VT. When I first picked it up, it didn?t run very well, and the engine diagnostic light was on.
My local seat dealer was both helpful, and cheap. They diagnosed a faulty lambda sensor, which was replaced under warranty. The car ran better.
However, there is still a problem at idle. If I stop at traffic lights it is ok to start with, but the idle gradually becomes lumpy- the car feels as though it is "hunting". Sometimes the idle speed drops momentarily when this happens. Also it is "a bit jerky" when I lift off the gas to shift, when accelerating briskly.
I have recently replaced the spark plugs, but this has only improved things slightly (maybe just in my head).
I have heard from "experts" on a Seat forum that the above symptoms can be caused by a faulty, or dirty, airflow sensor. How does one go about cleaning one- I believe they are quite fragile? I have some iso alcohol around will that be suitable?
Is there any other problems that may cause some or all of the above problems? Wastegate...?
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I may be wrong, but I think air meters are ignored at idle, as the airflow is too small to give a meaningful reading, however, you can clean them with carburettor cleaner, I would just remove it, and spray it liberally over a bucket to catch the fluid. I wouldn't start and run the car, as it may effect the emmissions control systems, or may damage the airflow sensor if it is heated.
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however, you can clean them with carburettor cleaner.
>>I would just remove it, and spray it liberally over a bucket to catch the fluid.
>>I wouldn't start and run the car, as it may effect the emmissions control systems,or may damage the airflow sensor if it is heated.
>>
I have the same info, spray with carburettor cleaner.
I was also advised that it is all you should do as things are very delicate.
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have the same info, spray with carburettor cleaner.
I was also advised that it is all you should do as things are very delicate.
And expensive!!
It is unlikely the poor idle is being caused by the airflow meter. Have you checked all the plumbing for security, split pipes etc? Also, the HT leads on modern cars will give poor running if they are breaking down. I changes the leads on my Range Rover (Magnecor Red) and the car returned to its usual creamy self.
--
\"Nothing less than 8 cylinders will do\"
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Ben. Your idling problem sounds very similar to the 306 problem (and solution) described by Steff and DP in this current thread www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=27...5
Ian
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Thanks for all the advice. I will give it a squirt with carb cleaner- i presume i can get that from halfords.
I hope this may cure the uneven running when i ease off the throttle too.
V8man- i wondered about the HT leads. But i'm not sure if it has any. It has the AUQ engine. There are ignition wires right up to the plastic bits that descend into the ehad to the spark plugs. I doubt Magnecor does these bits. The car is just within warranty, perhaps i should approach the dealer? I need to take it back to them yet again as there is play in the steering. I'm quite sure its from the steering column. The wheel moves about a centimeter at the edge before the wheels do. Irritating.
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Carb cleaner is a bit agressive. I have generally used brake cleaner which is a little more general.
Use carb cleaner to flush out the idle air valve and also check that the breather hoses and throttle valve are clean. Use some carb cleaner and an old toothbrush to clean around the butterfly.
Try dealer first if it is under warranty though.
Seems like the rack or a tie-rod end are worn if you have that much play in the steering.
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Carb cleaner is a bit agressive. I have generally used brake cleaner which is a little more general.
Sorry, meant to say 'gentle', not general!
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Aprilia- i have had a good look at the steering and rack. On closer inspection i have realised i was completely wrong, you were right (not surprisingly). The steering column is fine.
There is a bolt on the universal joint that links the bottom of the intermediate shaft to the steering gear pinion shaft, that i could try tightening but i very much doubt it would make any difference. I think the problem is to do with this gear pinion shaft. Is this effectively part of the rack? Do i need a new rack?
I shall be driving it to newcastle tomo, so i hope it holds up. Everything seems to work ok, no problems moving the wheels from lock to lock with it off the ground on jacks/axle stands. All the rest of the suspension looks fine and the car is dead straight so i dont think it has had a whack. Just this damn play.
The car was first registered in march 02 and has 56k on the clock so should be in warranty (i have alrady had warranty work carried out on the car in the two months we have had it). However, i have already mentioned this fault twice while it was at the dealers, only to be told its all fine. How do you suggest i approach them? Or should i just go to another dealer?
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Thank you- i'll buy some brake cleaner instead.
The steering does worry me. I have mentioned it twice while it has been at the dealer and due to the recent weather, and the fact the car is quite low i have not bothered investigating myself. Since you think the problem could be with the rack or tie-rod, i will go and investigate straight away! I hoped to drive the car over 600 miles this weekend. Maybe i should take a different car.
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