August 2004
I am about to take delivery of a new car and the dealer has offered 'supagard' protection @£190 - this is a paint sealant, and fabric and carpet treatment. It claims it 'eliminates the need for waxing and polishing', & reduces oxidation of the paintwork and makes the interior repel stains etc.
Is it worth it?
Thanks
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What can be the problem when 'power steering fault warning light symbol' comes up on dash whilst driving. The owners manual says refer to Skoda dealer, is it ok to drive with it on ? does fluid need topping up or can it be more serious?
Edited subject line to include new searchable menus - PU Read more
Hello everyone :)
(sry my english skill. i try do my best..)
I got this same light 2 days ago. (vw polo 1,9 tdi) Sometimes it goes off if i re-start car and sometimes not.
Battery is ok same is alternator ( if you have flat battery and ESP light come on ) then you might be have problem whit wiering..Alternator dosent charge under 2000rpm but onec you step over 2500rpm it start to charging... (you might have some wiring problem)
One easy way to chek it out in diesel car ...do you get battery picture on dasboard when you but inginiton pover on?? IF not then you got this wiring problem. It is quite easy to fix and dosen cost much at all ( ido that my self and it takes 15 min and cost me under 1 euros...
My steering is totally dead now but tommorow i will chek fuse nuber 3 (50amps top on battery) and wiering battery to pump and ground connections too....
And if you do not have skill and time to fix these kind things go locol dealer and ask them to read fault codes they can tell you then what is problem...I mean is it steering angle sensor or steering pump or somthing else...
I have a Renault Espace Diesel 2.2 DCi(Registered in 2000) and have had repeated problems over the last few years which my garage have failed to identify.
It starts up fine - but after driving for a while (usually on motorways for 1hour ) I experience a major loss of power accompanied by a warning signal and can limp along at about 30mph until I reach a hill! Quite often if I stop, turn the engine off and wait for 5 minutes it will start again and appears to be OK.
My garage keep telling me that its the EGR valve (they say thats what the computer tells them!) - and have replaced it 4 times now. I don't believe them!!
Any ideas?
Volume 2 is now over here :-
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=4&t=54...5
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Hi Laurie
How has you Espace performed since you started cleaning out the EGR ??
LaurieK was only here the once, and has not returned since:-
Date registered: Sat 29 Jul 2006
Last visited forum: Sat 29 Jul 2006
Maybe someone else can respond?
DD. BR Moderator.
Having not gotroundtuit last year, I'm going to get my Capri undersealed before the winter comes on. Waxoyl and the like have been discussed before, but if anyone has any recent experience of, or fresh opinions on, the best product for the purpose, I'd be grateful.
The story of restoring the Capri from 13 years of dormancy is here:
tinyurl.com/2frg7 Read more
Cheers all, picked the loose bits off, thers no rust, so brushed fresh underseal on, seems dry enough today so hopefully no trapped moisture.
My wife has just bought a 99V Focus 1.6LX. Stunning car, but we\'re confused about when the cambelt will need changing. It\'s done 53,000 miles and my brother (who\'s in the garage trade) feels it should be done soon.
Any idea on this? And should the water pump be changed too?
Any help appreciated! Read more
You should have changed the tensioner and pulleys anyway!
My brother recently purchased a 5 year old Ford Mondeo with 12,000 miles only on the clock (genuine!) According to the Ford recommendations this required a new cambelt, due to the fact that 5 years had been reached.
He had the complete Gates kit fitted, which comprises of cambelt, tensioner, and the two pulleys. They gave him the old parts which, knowing that I take great interest in these things, he then passed onto me.
The cambelt that had been removed looked brand new, and even the Gates logo was still readable on it.
The tensioner had no play whatsoever and appeared to be in perfect order.
However, the two pulleys showed considerable signs of wear. They should certainly not have been refitted.
And please remember, this was after only 12,000 miles!
Some have actually said that it's virtually unknown for these belts to go before the 80K or 100K, depending on engine date. However, I don't think I myself will be putting this to the test.
I've just read about timing belts in meganes snapping and causing expensive damage to the engine. I'm concerned because i don't know if it has been changed or not since the car was manufactured. I asked the person who i bought the car from and they had never changed it. They bought it at 40k. The car has now done 82k. I looked at the timing belt and its looks new, but im not experienced in that. After reading about megane timing belts i'm going to get it done now, but does anyone know how much it will cost? Also i've got a tapping noise from the engine when its idling. Could this be caused by the timing belt or its tensioner? The last thing i want is this belt to snap as i've spent loads on this car already. Read more
Don't F1 cars have hydraulic valves too? or am i making that up?
Hi,
I am really looking for some advise before I purchase my next car. I have been offered a Rover 75 2.0 Diesel from my dad. It is one of his fleet cars and has been solely owned by the company since new.
The problem lies with the mileage. Although the car is in excellent condition and has been maintained regardless of cost, it has covered 210,000 miles, most of which are motorway covered. The car will come with a full service and MOT and a tune up as the car is currently a little low on power (suspected turbo problem) which will be sorted before sale.
Am I right in saying its a BMW engine and not a Rover L Series?
Also would it be a good buy and how long do these engines last without too many problems?
I am expecting to pay around the £1,000 mark if not less as they write the cost of the car off as soon as its purchased.
I dont want to end up with a potential money pit and not be able to afford to run it.
Is this a sensible purchase or should I go for something older and with less miles for the money??
Any help much appreciated!! Read more
Robin, Rover 75 X reg CDT. BMW engine?
About 9 years to late...
I have a motor-scooter, and have three questions.
1. What is the best way of cleaning the engine? It has a lot of grease and grime, and was wondering what is the best was of cleaning this out without damaging the engine or electrics.
2. What is the quickest and most effective way of cleaning off brake dust and grime from alloy wheels? I frequently use a rag, but this takes a long time to do.
3. And finally, when brake pads are changed, does the brake fluid have to be automatically drained and changed?
Many thanks in advance for any thoughts regarding the above.
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I used to clean the diesel engine of my motorbike bought from China
The tips I can provide is ......
Our Volvo lives out and all the window seals and particularly the sunroof seals are all green mouldy. On previous cars I've used warm soapy water and a nail brush but on this Volvo the seal seem to have a kind of felt surface on, so won't take any hard brushing.
Is there a chemical around than can be sprayed on and left to dissolve the green? The wife thought weed killer may help but I think the paint may get harmed. Read more
Hi there,
there is a specific mould cleaner available, i believe its a mr muscle product avalable in any supermarket.
Pastyman...
A friend has just given me a Peugeot 106 which i'm fairly sure has a knackered head gasket - the cooling system is pressurised, there's mayonaise on the oil filler cap and a fair bit of smoke out of the exhaust, even when the car is warmed up. So HGF a fair assumption, yes?
So I'm wondering whether it's worth having a go at replacing it myself. I've not done a head gasket before, but the engine is simple (it's a 1.1 carb engine) and the job itself doesn't look to bad. So my thinking is remove cam belt, lock camshaft in place with a bolt through the pulley into the head, unbolt exhaust manifold, unbolt inlet manifold, take of head cover, undo head bolts, lift off head. Replace head gasket. Then follow the old Haynes advice, "reassembly is the reverse of removal"? Obviously replacing all gaskets on the way.
Just wondering if i'm way off the mark here, any help would be gratefully appreciated! Read more
Make sure you bleed the system carefully as a lot of hgf,s are caused by this. There are plenty of links to this on this forum see also Citroen for bleeding advise.
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Update:
I can’t fault the customer service received from SG and feel totally assured they can be relied upon should any issues occur - in line with the majority of their positive reviews.