I\'ve moved this to the top as it gives useful information that is frequently requested on this site. I\'ve locked it so it doesn\'t turn into a pro/anti speeding thread. Cheeky, please post a new thread to let us know how things go? Cheers, ND

Guys,

Tried to search past \'speeding\' volumes, all except latest vol. 25 are not loading. I\'d therefore be very grateful if someone would enlighten me:

\'It\'s a fair cop\' - I was caught by a Truvelo (facing forward A422 farthinghoe village...) Particularly nasty as I was technically still in a 30mph zone - the 60mph de-restriction sign is about 25 feet behind the camera.
Anyway, I reckon I was doing about 36-38mph.

I\'m aware the Notice of impending Prosecution has a 14 day period to be issued by the police. My 14th day is this coming Bank Holiday Monday. If the NiP should arrive later in the week, and I am therefore outside the 14 day period, what should I do?

All replies are much appreciated.
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Can anyone tell me the correct battery for my 1997 Vauxhall Vectra 2.0 Auto. The hand book offers 4, 44Ah/55Ah/66Ah/70Ah and no indication which is right for my car! Various local battery suppliers say 40Ah is plenty big enough and others say must be 60Ah. I would appreciate any advice.
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I've seen a number of mentions of leasing as an alternative to buying recently, and I'm bemused.

People talk of avoiding depreciation, but leasing doesn't avoid depreciation - the car still depreciates, it's just that you've paid a middle man to predict the depreciation in advance. And because he can't predict that exactly, he's going to make sure he doesn't get burnt by erring on the side of higher depreciation.

It seems to me that in a simple open market, leasing is *always* going to be more expensive than buying, just because you've added an extra party who needs to make a profit. There needs to be some skew to the market to make it cheaper, like tax breaks.

Is there some skew to the market that I don't know about? Or am I just wrong? Can anyone quote any concrete figures for any car that shows leasing is a better deal financially? If not, why is anyone even considering it? Read more

This morning, in my usual manner, I left to go to work. Mistake. The road outside my house, which is normally a \'rat run\' was busy, but i thought no more of it. Next thing I discover why - there\'s been an accident 800m or so up the road (YES! It involved a minibus taxi!) and traffic was at a standstill.
It took me 20 minutes to get from my driveway to the corner - 100m down the road.
In hindsight, i should have just parked the car and walked back home for another cup of coffee!
BUT, here\'s the rub... manaufacturers advise getting in the car and driving off staright away. Effectively this morning I was \'idling\' for 20 minutes! TWICE I turned the engine off, and restarted a few minutes later.
Is this wise?
What, under the circumstances, would be/have been the best course of action?
(NB - the car don\'t have a Catalyser!)
Keep crawling along at idle? Keep stopping and starting the engine? Revving the engine to get it warmed up quicker? parking (as above) and coming back later?
Ideas? Thoughts? Read more

I'm sure some people buy cars from a main dealer because of the extra benefit of the warranty. However its got me thinking.

Is it worth having these warranties in respect of the actual amount you spend to get it and maintain it, rather than the actual costs people have experienced with an out-of-warranty problem?

For example. Lets say you pay £1500 extra for a second hand main dealer car than the same car private. And the warranty also requires that you maintain the service history at a main dealer - perhaps £200 for an average service v £100 for an independent. Over 3 years this extra benefit of a warranty has cost £1800 more, plus maybe more on extra parts costs outside of the service that maybe required.

So, are the average cost of repairs that could be done under a warranty worth more than £1800?

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