August 2004

Obsolete

I recently had a chat to my insurance broker after I damaged another car when reversing out of a parking space. (Mum was seriously ill, hence I was not in a fit state to drive.)

The cost of a small bump is the cost of the excess plus the increased insurance premiums over the following 3 years. This can amount to as much as £1K or more. I asked if it was legal to report the accident (a legal obligation) but pay out of my own pocket for the damage to the other persons vehicle. The broker said that this was legal, and the presence of an accident report with no claim would not lose my NCB. He did mention that I should get a signed statement from the other person confirming the arrangement so as to avoid them taking my money AND claiming against my insurance. Can anyone confirm this information? Thanks. Read more

Rosanbo

There's no such thing as an uninsured car, under MIB rules they will have to pay anyway. But not telling can lead to a headache later on, I haven't heard of such a case but I imagine your insurers could subsequently sue you for their losses to the MIB.
---
was kev_is_here

silverfox

I'm looking to part ex my current car at a small/specialist dealership but am not sure about the level of honesty to apply to the car's history. Whilst in perfect mechanical order and MOT'd the car had been HPI'd as a cat 4 (insurer declined to repair). It had been fully repaired by the vendor (a reliable friend of a friend who does a lot of this work) and has given me no problems.
The couple of dealer valuations I've had done so far have indicated a trade-in value quite close to the standard list price. I suspect that the dealers have not done a thorough check to pick up the sings of repair. My question is whether any initial trade in value forms part of a contract or whether they would want to perform a more in-depth check before coming to a final value. Am I being at all realistic to think that I could get £500 to £1000 more on a trade-in if the dealer is not told or does not spot the car's history or is honesty on my part the best policy?

Another quick question, if a car has been HPI'd through accident (not "total write-off"), can it be removed from the register or re-classified?

Thanks.

Read more

Mapmaker

>>Am I right to say that HPI condition alert (VCAR?) vehicles are difficult to sell or does this become less important with age and declining values (the car is MOT'd)?


For your first question, yes. Read any 'how to buy a car' guide, and it'll tell you to look out for panels out of alignment, bad welding etc. This is because poor repairs, cheap non-galvanised panels & welds that have taken a large impact are likely to give rise to places where rust will start. And anyway, nobody else will buy it, even if you do! Hence the depression of prices.

On the other hand, what is more important to a buyer of an old car is whether there are 4 good tyres; whether the brake pads have 20k miles left in them; when the cambelt was last changed etc. So at that age, sensible people would prefer a well maintained V-car car over a poorly maintained nonVcar car.

OAP

My son is about to tow for the first time and has asked me for any tips. My experience is very limited but I have e-mailed him as follows:

"While I think of it.....are you both familiar with the RPM at which the Octavia develops it maximum torque?

"This, of course, is the point at which your engine will be happiest when towing (you should barely know the van is there) and is, I believe, also the point at which you will get maximum MPG.

"It follows, I suggest, that if your RPM are lower at any time than the point at which it develops max torque, you should change down so as to return to the 'happy' figure!!"

Are my suggestions correct?

I have searched previous threads and the most relevant comment I found was from Darren on 25/2/04 when he said "If towing caravan, torque is everything".....please enlarge on this.

My son's car is an Octavia 1.9tdi. I have no experience of turbo. What bearing does turbo have, if any, when towing?

Thanks in anticipation of Backroomer's help....as ever! Read more

Robbie

Just to add to this discussion here's an article from this week's Autoexpress.

At Full Chat


've never towed a caravan, slept in one or had the slightest inclination to do time in a small metal box fitted with a kitchenette and a gas canister. Frankly, I don't like them. When I go on holiday, I prefer to rent a hotel room rather than drag one along behind my car. At this point, you're probably expecting me to lay into caravanners. But instead, I'm going to praise them. These are salt-of-the-earth citizens who know what they want and what they like. What's more, they fight their corner and they do it well. At the end of last month, I heard one of those radio broadcasts which was designed to have a go at and ridicule drivers who tow caravans. But it backfired horribly, because an enthusiast wheeled out to be criticised and humiliated was having none of it.

I was driving at the time, so couldn't take notes, but I remember him saying he considered his little caravan to be a well equipped hotel suite which he can move at five minutes' notice. He also pointed out that it had a decent loo, power-shower, fridge, satellite television and air-conditioning. I don't know about you, but my house doesn't even have satellite TV or air-con!

The proud caravan man politely suggested that some critics were perhaps a little jealous of people such as him, and the freedoms and comforts he enjoys on the road. He then went on to spell out the sort of considerable expenditure 'vans and their occupants bring to local economies. Yes, caravanners often carry their own food and drink with them, but they also use restaurants, bars, tea shops, supermarkets and fuel stations - and that's in addition to the site fees they pay. So next time you curse a caravanner for clogging up the roads, bear in mind that he's spending a few quid and helping employment levels. And as with the rest of us, he's also paying through the nose for his road users' taxes (VED, fuel duty, VAT and the like), and as long as his vehicles are roadworthy, he is doing nothing untoward or illegal.

If you're still not convinced because you've got a haunting memory of being stuck behind a convoy of caravans on a narrow road where overtaking was impossible, just ask yourself how often such incidents actually occur. I live in an area where touring caravans regularly pass through on their way to south-east holiday resorts or the Channel ports, but I can't remember the last time one of them delayed my journey. Conversely, I'm held-up or jeopardised by heavy, left-hand-drive lorries on a daily basis.

I'm still not a fan, but - whether it's an elderly couple seeing a bit of the world or a young family on a budget having the only type of holiday they can afford - give the people who tow caravans a break. They're just like the rest of us - taxed road users quietly getting on with their lives. And although it might not always seem like it, they are genuinely trying to cause as little disruption to others as possible. Most important of all, never forget the caravanner is also a motorist. And that means he or she is one of us and should be treated accordingly. Mike Rutherford


Comments: 1 Article from: Auto Express





rhino

We've got a new Volvo XC90 arriving in November, about £17,000 saved in the kitty and a wheezing '93 Saab 9000CSE with 160k on the clock to chop in (I trust the salesman to keep a professional attitude when he makes his offer of not a lot). We intend to keep the new car for a long time, probably as long as the Saab which has served the family for 9 years.

I'm baffled as to how to finance the purchase, given the vast array of options on the market. The car will be mainly for family use, although SWMBO is Vat registered but doesn't do nearly enough mileage per annum to call it a company car. Leave it to the Volvo Lease plans, or get a bank loan? Do we hang onto the saved cash? Or is there anything else better on the market?

All views gratefully received. Read more

rhino

We're locked into as very very good 5 yr deal on the mortgage front, so the offset option is regrettably not on the cards. I reckon an on line personal loan may be the way forward on the basis of what I have gleaned thus far. Whatever, the XC90 still seems a good choice despite the Autocar hype of the new Discovery. The interior build of the new variant seems to lose out against Volvo quality.

silverback

Anyone got any ideas what the problem is because the local ford dealer hasn't manged to fix after several attempts? In fact I once got the car back running far worse than when they got it and Im getting very annoyed.

Ive a Escort, about 9 years old that keeps sticking on a high idle speed of 1000-1300 or so when warm after about 20-30 minutes. It will often drop again after I blip the throttle of after the radiator fan cuts in.

Normal Idle is about 850 rpm and is usually stable. When I pull to a stop it usually stays at about 1000 rpm for a few seconds and then drops, which I am told is normal behaviour. However after a run it exibits the problem behavior and often will not drop to usual idle speed even if left for several minutes or as I said the fan cuts in.

So far several parts have been changed by the dealer including I believe the Idle speed control valve, the engine speed detector, the emission control valve and the HEGO unit. It may be very slightly better but not much.

Anyone got any Ideas what the problem really is? What should I get done next? What of the engine management system is left to replace? Mass flow detector? Engine temperature detector? Throttle position detector? ECU? I dont pretend to understand how all these work together (or If I have the right names. Is the input manifold gasket likely to be faulty, Is there a mechanical fault?
Why can't a dealer find out exactly whats wrong with all their fancy equipment? Where else can I go for advice?

The engines done about 60 000 miles, and still drives OK. The clutch will need doing soon but Im reluctant to pay out more money until the Idle speed is sorted, I've recently spent about what the cars worth on tyres, exhaust, brake disks etc.and all the above.

Arrgh Help ! (Bangs head on wall) Read more

silverback

Thanks for the help, I'm checking things out to find out just when the problem happens. The Idle speed does drop when the fan cuts in but it doesnt go back up when it stops until Ive driven the car again or at least pressed the accelerator.

Would the crankcase vent valve (which hasn't been replaced) only cause a high idle intermittently when hot?.

I did notice somethingtoday which I will have to confirm. I was parking the car whilst showing the problem Drove car forward, High Idle. Drove car backward - normal idle, drove car forward high idle. strange. Didnt have time to look at it properly. Could be just coincidence.....





Adam {P}

Not really a question but a sort of update

As you may know, I was whining on about my Focus timing belt the other week. Anyhoo, at 59,000 miles, people were worrying me with figures of 45k, 60k etc...

I took it in and have been told (by a very well trusted mechanic/friend to leave it till 93,000 on this particular engine. Also, as someone mentioned in the previous posts, Ford supposedly cover, or contribute to any premature faiures.

No doubt I will be on here in a few months asking how to remove valves from the power steering resevoir!!

Many thanks for all your help

Adam Read more

bazza

Hi Yes agree with you entirely - my comparisons are merely subjective and of course 2 different makes of engine! It will be interesting to see how technology develops, I imagine you're correct in that engine speed control will be taken away from the driver ultimately. That opens up a whole new area for discussion of course! Thanks for interesting feedback.
Baz

stuartjw

Hi (Please bear with me on this),

If anyone could offer me some advice please do. After looking round for a Mark 3 Golf GTi I found a mint looking Black 3dr which is totally standard - Just as I wanted.

The car body work looks good with some marks here and there (P reg) but no serious problems that I can see. I have had it HPI checked and it all passes OK including the mileage - Not sure what they check but said it was OK.

The car is 7 years old and has the service history stamped up and all 4 MOT Certificates with it. It also has quite a few receipts but I think this is off the current owner(Cambelt done at 60K).

The only thing was the drivers seat bolster was worn and felt a bit saggy and the accelarator pedal looked well worn. The car drove well and didnt seem to have any problems except an ABS light which it is booked in to the garage to get fixed. I am getting an RAC check on wednesday and the sale is dependent on the outcome of this and I am satisfied with the reciepts for the ABS problem.

I have read that the seat bolsters do wear on these golfs though - Can anyone verify whether this points to an 85,000 mile car? The steering wheel was worn on the top but not smooth - More like a bit rough and the bottom looked fine - It was not smooth like my 142,000 mile Polo. The gear knob did appear a bit worn.

The thing is I am bricking myself buying a car privately and dont know if I am being over cautious. I am paranoid about it I guess.

Please please give me some expert help - I presume the RAC should pick up whether it is a duffer. Read more

stuartjw

I bought a Golf GTI last night. It seems pretty good. I suppose I have taken a risk with this one by not getting it checked out but there was enough money left over just in case. The service book had a full VW service history - N reg 5 door metallic paint - I came to the conclusion it would be easier to find an unabused 5 door and think I was definitely right. twin airbags, PAS, 4 x EW (Well rear drivers side does not work), ES, 5 MOT's. It also has a new exhaust fitted and 3 months ago a new gearbox. I know I am not a genius mechanic or anything but the gearbox is obviously new. It was from a guy who was about 40ish and it looks like he has taken care of it. He had no receipts for services or anything which would have been nicer. I paid £2550 for it. I do not trust it yet as I need to do a fair few trips up and down the motorways before that.
The bodywork was mint though - No panels out of alignment and there were not many marks on it at all.
It needs a new tyre - There is plenty of tread but it is cracking and looks dangerous.

The only thing that I did not notice till I drove it home was the rev limit kicked in at 5,000RPM - This is obviously not normal - Anyone any ideas?

El Hacko

now I've heard it all... this from Reuters website today. Anyone seen a more novel way of shifting metal?

"It's hard to believe. But with a deal more commonly seen at clothing sales, one car dealership in New Jersey has upped the ante to lure buyers who have become blase about the usual incentives offered on vehicles these days.

For buyers who purchase any new 2004 or 2005 model Nissan, the Route 46 Nissan dealership in Totowa is giving away a 2003 Nissan Sentra, usually an off-lease or traded-in vehicle.

"We've had a lot of interest and we've had a lot of customers take advantage of the sale," said Frank Tackett, a ... etc"

EH
Read more

Stargazer {P}

When living in Oz, Holden had a special offer, buy a new Commodore, get the free use of a Barina free for one year (including rego, third party insurance). At the end of th year you had the option to buy the Barina.

Good way to shift the metal and possibly even sell the second car a year later.

StarGazer

mandarin

Can anyone with one of these tell me how their clock lights up at noght please?

I can only see the illuminated green tips of the hands and green tips at each number position.

I'm sure it should be backlit as well, but the dealer insists not.

If anyone with a Mk 3 mondeo could have a look I'd be grateful.

Many thanks.

Mike Read more

kithmo

My 2001 Mk3 is the same as yours, just the tips of the hands and the 3, 6, 9 & 12 number positions

robert

Hi,

A pal has a 1999 - T reg Vectra 2.0 Diesel. It has 114 on the clock.

Recently, the car hasn't been starting 1st time from cold. No matter how long it is cranking over. However, it then always starts on the 2nd attempt.

Has anyone seen this before?

Thanks in anticipation ......... Read more

ukbigd

Can i bump this up you cured my problem in an stroke with this article My DTI Was playing me up and i found the damaged pipe at the leak off pipes