August 2004
Hi all,
New member, think I'm glad I found this forum.
I have just acquired a ZX 1.9td and the first thing I noticed (apart from an oil leak) is that it drank more water than I think I ever could.
After having the car on a jack and checking the underneath I finally got looking inside the car. The leak apears to be coming from near the blower unit (where it connects to the heater unit) on the passenger side. I am not particularly mechanically minded so was just interested in the worse case - take it into a garage cost. The reason I ask is that it looks like it might be time consuming to fix. The coolant leaks when the engine is running or not but I suspect that if I realeased the pressure from the rad it wouldn't continue?
Any thoughts on this would be gratefully appreciated, along with any rough costs.
Thanks in advance
Paul Read more
In a recent copy of F1 Racing magazine, Mike Gascoyne (techincal director of the Toyota F1 team) is quoted as saying "trackside acoustic analasis shows that we still have one of the most powerfull engines in F1"
How can they do that? I presume it's some sort of microphone wired up to a laptop, I can understand them being able to find out how high an engine is reving to from this but how can they mesure peak power? Read more
I also haven't given it any thought but I believe the rev counters you see in F1 and motoGP coverage are done based on the engine sound.
Certainly with formula 1 because of the regulations with fixed capacity, number of cylinders and V piston arrangement the main thing the teams can do to increase power output is to increase the maximum rpm - hence the rise in recent seasons to engines which peak at 18-19k rpm.
I think I know the answer to this, but I'd be interested to hear a proper diagnosis. My old Audi has been given a holiday while I dodge the summer showers on my motorbike, and I was attempting to keep it from neglect by starting it up and running for a while every couple of weeks. This was not quite enough to keep the battery (not the original!) afloat, and having left it for slightly longer, the next time I turned the key, everything was dead. I put it on charge (in situ) and was surprised when the charger didn't immediately go to maximum (8A).
Instead, it started at 4A and sat there for 3-4 hours, before creeping up to 8A, where I left it for a while before switching it back to 'slow charge', which then registered 2A. At this point, I thought that perhaps the charger had an overcurrent limiter that would select the lower current if a battery was very depleted, but I think this is unlikely, as it is only a cheap device.
I checked the levels, which were OK, having been topped up in the spring. I left it on the low current overnight, with a view to turning it back up again this morning, but despite the lower output setting, the current had crept up to 6A, and the battery was fizzing away nicely. I disconnected everything and checked the voltage (should have done that at the beginning, I know) and it is struggling to make 11V. That suggests a dead/shorted cell to me, but I don't know why that would manifest itself in this fashion.
I've resigned myself to replacing the battery, but any explanatory thoughts would be gratefully received. Read more
Only one cell, initially (before I left it on 'slow' charge overnight), which was what led me to believe that one cell was the problem. The following morning, with the charge current up to 6A, everything was bubbling nicely!
That was when I disconnected the charger and measured the 11V, but when I measured it again an hour or two later, it was down to 6V! Up to then, it had been connected in the car, so I removed a terminal in case something was sucking the power away, but the background consumption turned out to be only a few mA. The voltage has now fallen to below 5V, so I think I may have to pronounce it dead!
Hello Folks,
I suspect that it's a "yes", but does the ABS ECU store the codes? I have an intermittant sensor fault.
My Vx franchise thought that the fault might need to be present when the ECU is read.
Does anyone know of a gadget that reads them? I suspect that it's "Isuzu Only".
And does anyone know of a decent independent Isuzu specialist in the North East?
rg Read more
Sometimes I wonder if I am paranoid and unfair in respect of main dealers.
But then, I think that I'm justifiably wary.
So, I call up my local place and they say "yes, we can read the codes while you wait. Dead easy." I query if they are sure that they have the right diagnostic tools, and I'm met with a faint "who do you think we are" response.
So, it goes down to them. I wait around for almost an hour. I query the wait. "Oh, he's having a few problems." An hour and forty five minutes of my precious self-employed time later, I'm told "Nope, we can't do it, we haven't got the right tool."....
Does anyone remember Mutley from Wacky Races?
:-(((
rg
I\'ve just started out on a search for my next wagon and wanted to ask if negotiating a purchase at the Supermarkets is the same as at a Dealership or from a private seller - or are the prices deemed so reasonable as to be immovable?
One place I\'ve looked at is Jeffries Farm in Crawley. The cars are generally 2 years old or less, RAC Inspected if less than 10,000 miles and HPI vetted.
Also, when bargaining, is there ever a standard figure/percentage to knock off the display ticket to proceed with? Read more
Thanks for the replies. There's no trade-in. So far I'm looking
at the Audi A6 (poss. TDi or petrol equiv.) or the Peugeot 406 Coupe. There was an '02 A6 1.9 TDi at the Supermarket for £13.5k.
I shall check out Auction View before I do anything else.
The Telegraph motoring section, Saturday Aug. 28, has an article on an Indian electric car called the Riva G-Wiz. It looks something like the Smart, but runs off batteries. I'm fairly sure that the car would satisfy the daily motoring needs of most of the backroomers.
There is also a news announcement that Ford are recalling their electric 'Think' car, "...made for and shipped to the British and USA markets". It seems that they are planning to crush them insteaed of selling them. I'm a conspiracy theory enthusiast, and suspect a deal with the oil barons.
With modern electric motors and power electronics electric cars could beat any supercar you care to mention in acceleration and, with negligable wheel spin due to electronic torque control. With a disc motor forming part of each wheel there would be only four moving parts, no gearbox, no differential, no shafts, i.e, no transmission losses. Read more
I have just read a report on 'Ultracapacitors' in an institute journal. The ultracapacitors carry a large amount of power and charge up in millisecs as opposed to a battery which takes hours to do the same. The report comments that Honda is already using ultracapacitors to supplement the fuelcell on its experimental cars. When the device is a little more developed, and designed into the vehicle it will be the next stage in electric vehicles.
One of the first appliacations forseen is in the hybrid vehicle. The engine stops at traffic lights etc. to conserve fuel and reduce emmissions. When the throttle is pressed the ultracapacitor discharges through a motor around the drive shaft, accelerating the car away and starting the engine. That method was first used in the 1920s or 30s. What goes around, comes around.
Would be grateful for any advise. I have decided to overhaul my CVH cylinder head from a 1991 Ford Fiesta Xr2i as it was starting to burn oil(blue smoke). Having removed the head, springs and valves the oil stem seals seem ok ( to my eye) I am replacing anyway as a matter of course but would these seals not be the problem concerning the burning oil?
Also when I am cleaning the valves do I clean them fully on there heads ie. remove all traces of carbon and other grime so they are gleaming? Any help much appriciated as would any advise on other things to do as good practice with the head off. All gaskets and head bolts are being replaced.
Kind regards Read more
When you get it back together ensure you take it upto 4500/5000 rpm regularly-it makes the valves rotate on their seats and evens out the wear.his applies to all engines-not just CVH.Some large lorry engines have rotators built in as part of the valve-gear.
I have just bought a Mercedes 220 cdi and am amazed that the service intervals can be up to 18,000 miles. There is a warning on the dash when the car reckons it needs looking at. Has anyone any thoughts on these long service intervals? I still can\'t get out of changing the oil every 6,000! Read more
and this morning it asked for a service, three weeks before its 4th birthday
When we bought our Rover the dealer must have saturated the upholstery with freshener.
On a hot day the car still stinks in spite of 2 cleans with a wet cleaner from the hire centre plus a bottle of Fabreeze.
Does anyone know of a fumigator that works and has a lasting effect ??
Thank you, Woof, Woof. Read more
Try some sprit vinegar, you can get 5 litre containers at a cash and carry.
This should remove all organic odours, and then you can remove the vinegar with an upholstery shampoo machine.
The vinegar smell will only be temporary, and residue will decompose in contact with the air to form odourless gases methane and carbon dioxide which will readily disperse..
Has anyone done this.
I have a mk2 v6 auto with a blown engine. I have an old rusty 2.8Td manual. I want to turn the mk 2 into a diesel.
Is it feasible??
Read more
From what I read on various trooper forums, the 2.8 has a head weakness.
I would go for a 3.1 lump from a breakers.
rg
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Try finding a ZX Forum (I think Andyspares have one or possibly there is a Yahoo group - do a search) You are almost certain to find a keen owner who has had the dash out - they'll help out.
If you do decide to go for it, I'd suggest you get a camera (digital if possible) and take pictures at every stage of dismantling. Also label absolutely everything as you take it off - otherwise you'll have cables all over the shop!
The steering wheel will probably have to come off (see Haynes)I don't think the ZX ever had airbags (??) but if so, this could be a serious obstacle - not advised without expert help!
Above all, be methodical, take your time and avoid pulling anything away unless it's completely disconnected. Get plenty of light on the subject.
The battery will have to be disconnected first - so radio will lose its code. If you don't have it, you'll need to get it from a Citroen dealer.
Good luck!
Graeme