July 2023
Apologies for the long story for context.
Pierre needed to be parked up after a water leak (sunroof drains blocked). Everything was fine apart from the small lake in the rear footwell... so we had the carpet out, left it to dry out with the rice and newspaper etc.
While it was parked, I disconnected the battery to keep the immobiliser from draining it.
Some weeks later it's all back together, so I charge up the battery (which didn't take more than 20m) and I went to start the car.
1999-era Meganes are peculiar in that to disarm the immobiliser after a battery-off job, you need to remote-lock the car using the blipper on the key, then remote-unlock it. This process makes the immobiliser know the entry is kosher and it's all good to start. I've done this loads of times over the years and it's always been cool.
Anyhow, on this occasion the C/Locking blipper doesn't lock the car, or unlock it, so the immobiliser rightly won't let the car start.
My first thought was that the car battery was maybe flat, even though the charger said it was good.... but the engine turns over fine (the immobiliser disables the fuel pump so the car still cranks, but doesn't start).
Next idea was locking the car using the key in the door lock... even though only remote-locking/unlocking with the blipper is going to release the immobiliser. I tried it anyway... but (rightly) it didn't work.
Next idea was maybe the key is duff, so I gets the spare key. The regular key is RF (not the earlier Infra-Red)... and has an LED that lights up when it transmits. That looks fine.. but I also tried the spare key. The spare key has an LED but it didn't light up.. so the spare key battery was obviously flat. I replaced the battery in the spare key and now both keys light up their LEDs... and both keys still don't remote-lock/unlock the C/Locking, so at least they're consistent.
Now Pierre has lost its key-to-immobiliser "synchronisation" in the past... in winter when the battery died, but the C/Locking would always work, even if the immobiliser didn't recognise the key itself (in the ignition)... so the immediate problem is not key to immobiliser synchronisation.
The C/Locking itself works fine using the button inside the car, so mechanically it works. It just doesn't activate when blipped using the key.
So, either the C/Locking receiver (wherever that is) is not getting the signal (could be a key-code to CL module issue, or it could be a simple receiver issue) OR it's getting the signal but it's not talking to the C/Locking actuators.
I've dismantled the headlining looking for a receiver (cars with IR have the receiver in there, but Pierre has an RF system)... and around the fuse board and the Body Computer doodah .. and it all looks in good order.. no blown fuses, or signs of water ingress, never mind any corrosion or damage.
Is there a way to reset/synchronise the RF key to the C/Locking? The key can be synched to the immobiliser by holding the button pressed for 10 seconds till the LED light goes out and then double pressing it... but that's key vs immobiliser, not key vs C/Locking.
Otherwise where is the RF signal receiver unit? How can I tell whether it's receiving?... Read more
Legislation for implementation regarding public charging has been drawn up, hopefully to ease some concern among non-EV drivers/owners.
Contactless payments on all chargers of 8kW or faster. No need for lots of apps, but charging via an app will remain the easiest way of getting a receipt.
99% rapid charger reliability.
Open data - meaning they’re more easily findable via an online search.
A free 24/7 helpline at all chargers in case of any issue.
Roaming - the ability to use EV charge cards universally, without being tied to specified networks.
All pricing to be in p/kWh (I’ve never seen it in any other metric).
Read more
The car I am currently driving does 62.8mpg which means it has a range of 968 miles. According to the manufacturer.
It doesn't....
I need to replace a lost cam sprocket bolt.
I’d guess I probably lost it when I was turning the car upside down looking for the tensioner spring that I apparently didn’t need (I now think I can tension that manually) ironic idiocy stylee.... Read more
I got a new gasket when the "saga" started, though somewhat against my better judgement, since I've re-used a head gasket in the past with no problem.
I have not renewed the head gasket each time I've taken the head off, though I suppose that would be ""received wisdom". I am not a huge fan of received wisdom, but If I have to do it again I might spray some stuff on it....
We're taking our trailer tent away tomorrow. Being a clever man, I thought I'd take the wheels off to check the hubs are nice and cleaned and greased up.
Whilst.putting them back on, I managed to round off a nut. Never mind; it was tightened. Moved on to the next one and managed to snap the stud. That got a bad word.... Read more
" but then you risk stripping the thread on the hub and having buy a whole new hub."
But only if you are a ham fisted baboon....
These crossing seem to vary as it is. If some get any slower you will be able to exit your car help someone across and get back in before the green! As a pedestrian there are not enough of these in strategic places as it can take me and Sammy dog ages to cross. Sometimes someone takes pity on us and lets us cross but can be a bit dodgy if traffic on the other lane is inclined otherwise! Read more
While headline is typical Daily Fail tripe, there is a point here.
Around my way, East London, most of the pedestrian crossings (controlled by lights) and crossings at junctions, have the 'countdown' display for pedestrians. The default appears to be 10 seconds, but I've noticed a few are 15 seconds....
JD power reports that "people prefer interacting with the apps on their phone than whatever cockamamie b******* was cooked up by the company that made their car." We already knew that but it is nice to see it acknowledged where the car manufacturers might notice.
www.theverge.com/23801545/car-infotainment-custome...r Read more
<< That's just the point Andrew, people are like Magpies, they just want the latest "shiny thing", doesn't matter whether or not they need it, will use it or know what it is for. If the manufacturer is offering it, they want it. And when it comes to touchscreens, bigger is always better!. >>
I think there are quite a few who would be happy to do without several gizmos which come with the car they buy - but of course deleting them is not a cost-effective option ....
One son wants to replace his 2006 Honda Civic, ideally with a later Civic. (later models have a rear window wiper). Local ones he has seen in Autotrader seem to have a history of many MOT advisories/failures or, if apparently better looked after, are private sales.
Test drives for private sales obviously not so straightforward, wouldn't want his in part-ex, WBAC offer for his was £250 when they looked at it.... Read more
If he wants one with a rear wiper that’s the model from 2012 onwards. As occasionally discussed on here, the 1.8 has oil consumption issues that were resolved on 2013 onwards cars. I traded in my 2012 car in 2019 for that reason.
i would still recommend the 1.8 from 2013 onwards but a budget of £4k will not be enough for a half decent car.
As ever SLO list is a good starting point.
Trying to work out what is wrong with my car (2005 tdi). It occasionally doesnt start but still ticks over fine. It has also started on 2nd or 3rd try a few times. When it has refused to start I have been able to jump it fine but the last time it happened it wouldnt start from jumping it and had to bump it. Battery and alternator are fine. My Dad didn't think it was the starter but the person who helped me bump it last time said they think it could be the starter sticking ????
It went to the garage for a mot a while ago and was fine before however there wasnt a great amount of diesel in the car (would have been enough for a simple mot) and they ended up doing some work on it to do with high emissions where they put a trearment in and took the car for a drive. When I picked it up there was barely anything left in it. I drove it a little way to a garage and got some. Its since this has happened this problem has started so not sure if it could be related to that. ... Read more
As above - a good battery is critical.
Which engine is fitted? It it's the pd ( Pumpe Deuse) then the tandem pump (both vacuum servo pump/ fuel pump) is a known fail point.
Audi A4 2010 8 speed cvt is noisy as speed increases. Changes gear ok Read more
If an oil change doesn’t fix it , the it probably needs a new unit . £5k should cover it .
My wife suffers a from weak wrists. We are looking for a sub £4k coupe/convertible/hatchback car. She loves MX-5's but happy with any cute/stylish looking car BUT it must have very light steering.
..and thats the issue. Most of the older cars we have tried have quite heavy steering even if they have so called PAS... Read more
For outright lightness though probably a Fiat Panda or 500 with the city steer which enhances the assistance. These are extremely light around town and can be reliable if you avoid the diesels and the 900cc twin air engines and the auto. A simple 1.2 Panda is a very appealing little car in my opinion, they’re the same car underneath but the Panda is more honest, it’s cheaper and more practical.
Indeed we inherited a 2006 1.2 Fiat Panda Eleganza that my (late)father-in-law bought new as the "city" power steering button really helped with his awful Polymyalgia rheumatica. The 1.2 Fire 4 cylinder is an amazingly simple/reliable engine that feels nippy in town but it's no ball of fire on the motorway. Our did have a gearbox glitch - relatively cheaply fixed. On older ones keep an eye on the underside where panels are welded together - but an application of Owatrol Oil around seams etc keeps this is check. As with many cars keep wheel arches free and clear out any natural mud traps(fuel filler at rear, where brake pipes pass through inner front wings). One thing of note - the climate control fitted to the Eleganza is amazingly effective - meat locker on the "lo" setting.
Generally a good little town/city car....
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There should be a 4 digit code that can be entered via the lock/ unlock button on the dash . This will take the immobiliser off . May be in the driver handbook or contact a Renault dealer. The immobiliser can be removed but the engine needs to be running to do it .