July 2015

irish42

hi people i wounder if u could help i have a 2002 307 2.0 hdi 110 bhp an when i got it the dpf was playing up so i took it off an saw it was removed so i got the dpf softwear removed as the car was running in limp mode all the time when this was done the car had loads off power went great on the first run i had it up to 100 mph no problem when i lifted my foot off i heard like a loaud whiseling from the turbo or a cracked pipe i notic there is no turbo boost now at all i had it at the garage an the man said its the air flow meter or the turbo but hes not to sure look all the pipes sais they are ok so has any body all feed back on this thanks Read more

Gibbo_Wirral

If it sounds like air, it could be that the DPF has been split open to gut the insides and then not been re-sealed properly.

Zolasdad

2005 Mk1 Fabia Estate. 1.9TDi

FSH from new, but no mention anywhere of any work or recharging of the air con.... Read more

Zolasdad

Just to let you know, kept the car in shade all night. At 10.00 the car thermometer and my multi-meter both showed 27C. Air con switched on and the multi-meter showed a steady 5C - happy with that! Thanks again.

vicroymann

Shudder occurs when pulling away Is it likely to worsen on this model which is still under warranty until mid Sept.. Doubt that local dealer where purchased has the capacity to repair. Has Ford overcome this problem? Can I insist dealer takes car back? Thank you Vicroymann Read more

Coombs33

i had the same issue i also had a squeak and quealing sound. Ford took a look under warrentee and threatened me with a £400 inspection charge if they deemed it wear and tear. what they found was the dual mass flywheel had cracked and was destroying the clutch and this left me stranded at 1am on the motorway with a 2week old baby, best thing to do is to get it looked at before it causes you some problems

Dingle232

My 3 series (320d, '64) has now covered just over 9k miles with no issues at all. The on board computer is telling me that there's another 9k or 1 year to go before I have it serviced.

I must admit to being slightly nervous about that as previous diesels I have owned I have made sure that the oil has been changed every 8-10k miles. I spoke to BMW today who were quite confident that the 'modern oil' they use can withstand the rigours of such long service intervals. I'm no expert but, to me, engines are engines no matter what badges they have on and 18k seems a long interval.... Read more

corax

- if there is anything in the oil pan that will cause damage, it will probably stay there.

It finds it's way to the oil pick up and gets trapped by the strainer, but it won't take a lot of crud to start blocking it and lower oil pressure....

tobyp

I have a 2001 318i Touring E46 with around 130k on the clock. In the last 8-12 months the oil consumption has been increasing dramatically, but there is no sign of a leak from underneath - no oil puddles left on the drive overnight.

In the last week or so it's also been guzzling water, again with no sign of puddles underneath, on the engine or in the belly pan. The water/radiator light is on almost all the time, and I can put over a litre of water in after only a short drive. It's been pressure tested and is holding pressure as it should. There are no big clouds of blue smoke from the exhaust, just occasionally a fine white vapour.... Read more

skidpan

The water/radiator light is on almost all the time, and I can put over a litre of water in after only a short drive

Carry on driving in this state and you will soon need a new car. You obvoiusly have a serious problem. The fact that ...

shakermaker

Hi

We received a Requirement to Identify the Driver through the post. It shows our car going through a red light in the city centre. We don't remember the incident and it could have been any one of two people driving at the time. We requested photographic evidence which arrived in the post today. It was a rear facing camera though and only shows the back of the car. No driver.... Read more

RobJP

To be fair, I did say 'a camera from the back' ... and the reply was related to that.

Tterisr

Some help please and apologies for long post, sometimes detail may help I suspect?

Some four weeks ago the alternator was replaced after suffering a flat battery. I have no detail on the make i.e. Recon, genuine Ford (most unlikely) or aftermarket. On Sunday this week I blew fuse 99 (Interior lights) which had a 10A fuse Whilst taking out the boot light (boot fair so didn't want light on all the time). On Monday I drove 125 miles to Dorset and under heavy usage (a/c, cd player, sidelights, wipers) the battery light came on. The RAC came out and checked the battery (all fine) but determined the battery wasn't being charged (I assumed it would have been for the previous journeys since the alterator was installed) but obviously stopped working for some reason during my journey. He suggested it could be the alternator but wasn't convinced and suggested a wiring problem. He charged up the battery and also replaced fuse 99 for the interior lights with a 7.5A fuse which I understand is the correct rating. Those lights now work.
I was able to take the car to a garage in Weymouth who worked on finding the fault and were 99% happy that the alternator was not a defective unit but would need to fully check this out and also suggested further checks on the wiring system.

What I would like to know is what the likely cause of the battery light being on is, would fuse 99 have knocked something else out? Is a non-genuine Ford alternator a problem with the ECU and charging? Is wiring the likely problem and if so where an what order should it be checked?

Any help would be genuinely appreciated, I know there a lot of posts on this already so if I needed to be pointed to one please do so. thanks for reading. Read more

yakuzakitty

I just bought a second hand Nissan Micra Spirita (2006) and the passenger door in the front will not open from the inside. It's almost like there's a child lock on the door but I couldn't see anything obvious. It opens fine from the outside. It's not a dealbreaker but it's kind of annoying.

Does anyone have any ideas about what this might be and how I can sort it out? Read more

RobJP

It sounds like the connecting wire/rod from the internal handle to the door mechanism has come loose or snapped. Basically, it needs the internal door card taking off, and having a look.

A Haynes manual will tell you how to take the door card off without causing damage. Job will probably be pretty easy to do.

arse

I purchased a car on 27th january from a car dealer in London that was advertised as "the best FTO left, pristine example & a good investment etc." advertised in auto trader for £2,700. this is a high price for an FTO but it did appear to be immaculate and the exact model i wanted.

We drove to view the car and purchased it there and then as its a 90 mile drive from my house. ... Read more

pd

OP, sorry you think people are "having a go" but you have asked for honest advice.

The dealer cannot and should not write "sold for scrap" on the invoice unless it has been agreed with you....

Micky-BO

Can any 1 point me in the right direction the off side front & rear tail lights aren't working i have checked all the fuses to no avail. Maybe works through a control module. Any 1 encountered this problem before Regards Micky-bo Read more

elekie&a/c doctor

There are no fuses for the side/tail lighting circuit on these. The light functions are cotrolled by the body control module,part of the cabin central fuse/relay box.The system works on a no load /no circuit prinicple ,which means if a bulb fails,power to it is removed.You will need to check the wiring from the bcm to each front and rear light.Also any short circuit will cause the system to shut down.