September 2013
hi all, currenlty having a night mare with this car. i'm having a loss of power and seems to be no torqe in any gears, i just cant seem to find the problem. its been to a few garages and they have no idea whats wrong with it. one said the timing belt could of jumped a tooth or 2.
things i have changed:
maf sensor
map sensor
n75 valve.
actuator
intercooler ( brand new )
new vaccum lines.
fuel filter
air filter
oil change quantum oil
tandum pump.
things i have done:
egr delete
n75 simplified ( removed antishudder / egr valves )
changed the torsion value from -17 to 0.5
i dont have any fault codes for the car and have never had any popup.
i have also done logs in vag com with blocks 03, 11 and seem to be fine. my actual always seems to be a tad higher than spec. here is just a quick log of the injector values at idle in block 13 ( 903 rpm )
cylinder 1: -0.56, cyl 2: -0.89, cyl 3: 0.45, cyl 4: 0.96
i also stripped the turbo over the weekened and gave it a clean ( wasnt that bad ). there was also no shaft play and vnt leaver moves smooth with 0 resitence.
i do know my flywheel need changed as it's started to devlope a rattle and seems to go when the clutch is pressed in.
thanks for any help Read more
Does anyone know position of outside air temp. sensor?;also a capital "R" comes up intermittently in the central display-not explained in manual-what does it mean? Read more
Hi all
... Read more
Many thanks Avant; I think I'll be taking this on the chin and hope that the fine isn't too hefty.. And I'll certainly be making a complaint once the offence has been dealt with.
Can anyone shed any light on a clicking noise coming from the ECU.
When I turn the key the ignition lights don't come on. When I put a light load on the battery (which is fully charged) the clicking slows down, with a heavier load the clicking stops, but still no ignition lights ... the battery refuses to show any signs of life.... Read more
Sounds very like a dead cell in the battery - get it load tested.
Hi
For sometime I have had trouble with car loosing oil, a coule of weeks ago a mechanic changed my oil pressure switch, but when I gave it a run the red light came on. I took it back and he relaced it and the oil leak seems fixed. (dipstick fine etc) However the car still sufferes from 'vibration' in low gears, when it gets up speed it seems fine. (The front suspension mounts were replaced at the same time as switch)... Read more
Could the problem be a drive shaft vibration? Does it happen at one range of road speeds even if in neutral?
After reading the forum please could you send me the technical bulletin relating to turbo failures on the Ford Focus. This would be greatly appreciated.
My email address is mckennachris38@yahoo.com... Read more
Its vitally important to remember just how many of these engines have been fitted in various models form various manufacturers for the past 10 years or so. There must have been numerous millions. Because of that there are bound to be more than a few issues but that does not mean its a bad engine.
If someone had the failure rate as a percentage and the same info for a similar supposedly perfect engine from a lower volume manufacturer it would make interesting reading.
Hi
I drained the oil from my car a couple of weeks ago.... Read more
Thanks very much for that..
Hi, I have a Fiesta Zetec and I don't have the radio keycode. It is a model 4500, with serial number M229575.
Can anyone advise how to find the keycode please without having to go Ford!). Thanks Read more
Thanks for your help...works great
Hi,
... Read more
Is the 'key' light flashing when cranking?...
I have the code for my car stereo which I have used several times before, however this time I can only key in 3 digits of the code before the stereo swithches itself off, I heard that I need to leave the stereo on for 2 hours and try again but it switches off after 30 minutes.
Please help, music deprived Read more
Just wanted to say thanks very much, I cleaned the contacts as you suggested and it worked, much appreciated
hi, i replaced all vacuum lines and the one from the tandum pump were thge n75 pulls vacuum from.
also the "T" holds vaccum as i tested this a few days ago by simply removing the pipe before i went to work and you can hear all the air escaping from the brake servo. once car is running again vacuum is rebuilt for the servo
as for dissconectiong the vacuum line from the n75 ( vac out port ) iam able to get plenty of vacuum, not as much as the tandum pump supplies but i guess this is the ecu controlling the actuator .
an the actuator does move when reved, i did an output test also in vagcom in block 11 wich revs the engine thencontrolls the turbo for about 10 seconds then bleeds of the air from the n75 to the airbox.
im just totaly confused with my problem. all vacuum lines are great and working fine, i have no boost leakes or any smoke.
thanks helping out