October 2012
Has anyone a sure fire way to cure this problem ? Wheels re balanced twice ,, Tracking checked slight adjustment made no differance ,,, Just passed MOT no wear steering etc ,, Tyres swapped ,,, no sign of dragging brakes either front or back ? The forums i have read indicate that this seems to be common problem with this vehicle and yet other than the afor mentioned no conclusive remedy ,,, so IDONTKNIOW would be grateful for any help Regards Read more
the above is my car . taken to the workshop with misfire. they checked no1 & 2 no spark replaced the coil still the same so checked the wiring, then the ecu all come with no faults.
can u help me to solve the problem Read more
My vehicle has adaptive (turn round corners) High Intensity Discharge headlights fitted. My question is what do I need to do when driving on mainland europe?
My dealer promised to get the information for me but after a considerable wait I contacted Honda Technical Assist via their website. Their response was to use the self adhesive beam deflectors but then shortly after that my dealer informed me I had "Euro-headlights" which didn't need beam deflectors. They went on to say that using deflectors would damage the headlight covers due to the higher temperatures High Intensity Discharge headlights run at.... Read more
The dealer.
I bought my 2008 Hyundai i30 Premium diesel as a used car, a few months ago. I'm delighted with the car, except for the harshness of the ride, which I'm sure is due to the low profile tyres (225/45R17 on wheels 7.0Jx16).
Good quality new tyres will cost me about £150 each. So far as I can see, for not much more money I could buy a new set of (non-Hyundai) alloy wheels and put the car on to higher profile tyres, which are considerably cheaper. The following tyres are specified for other i30 models:... Read more
How come your car has 17 inch tyres fitted to 16 inch wheels?
The key just turns in my driver's door lock, no action. Passenger side is normal & locks all doors.
Is this likely to be an expensive cylinder replacement.
Is DIY practical? Read more
Hi all
I have been driving 4x4's over the last few winters but having to cut the fuel bill down so going back to a normal car :-(
I have about £4000 to spend and want a safe, relatively economical family car - preferably a diesel. Safe being the main concern! Going back to 2wd in the ice makes me nervous so no BMW suggestions please due to the RWD lol
My son is 5ft 10 so must be something quite roomy in the back - I hate small cars anyway :-D
I have looked for an AWD Volvo or Audi but too pricey to get a decent one with reasonable miles and subarus are nearly all gas guzzling petrols
What should I spend my hard earned cash on?
Thanks :-) Read more
One I have seen that I like already has winter tyres on though - isn't it a bit early for those?!
Probably just using up the spare tread, they must have at least 4mm in Europe to be legal as "winter tyres", as they lose effectiveness in winter conditions under that amount. Nothing to stop them being used as ordinary tyres in the UK however, as long as they have more than the current legal minimum (1.6mm?).
I recently experienced a completely flat battery after not using the car for 2 weeks. The car jump started instantly and was driven for around 20 miles to charge up the battery. All was fine. I then did a 400 mile round trip to Stafford to collect and fit a recently purchased hard top. Again all fine. Another trip of some 20 miles, all fine. Then when I went to use the car the central locking failed to operate. I opened the car with the key, and tried to start it, with the result that it turns over fine, but will not start. I have tried using the key with the immobiliser silence button on the steering column to reset things, but to no avail. I also tried disconnecting the battery on the positive side to see if that would reset any of the electronics, again no result. If anyone has any answers, I would be very grateful, or for any guidance.
Coughy Read more
Hi All.
The heater in my fiesta zetec keeps on blowing hot even when the heater control is on cold.!!.... Read more
Hi all!
Ok so i have a 307 hdi (90) 2002 (02)
Current things im on with trying to sort,
Rear heated window, just stopped working? no light on the button, fuse is ok and the haynes says the relay is controlled from ecu?
A/C Stopped kicking in when i press the button, the light on this button works and all fuses in tact, is there a separate relay for this?
I did the oil and filter a few weeks back, i ran a litre of engine flush for 10mins before new oil, plus i ran some redex injector cleaner on a low tank. Im not sure if its related but ever since i have had a noisy engine that kind of clears bang on 3000rpm, if it helps it sounds like when you run a petrol low on oil and you get that tappet ticking noise.
Also are the injectors coded on these engines?
Could do with disconnecting the electronic connector on each one and running the car to try and eliminate a noise that's bugging me!
Any ideas on any of the above greatly appreciated
Thanks,
Adrian.... Read more
Anyone?....
Hi all, I have a mondeo tdci 2005 (EU4) with 90,000 miles, in the last 2 months the glow plug flashes when I start the car, run the car for about 1 mile, switch off the engine and started again and glow plug won’t come back, although if I put the foot down glow plug lights comes back, the engine becomes a bit sluggish (sounds like it’s going to cut off ) and a massive brownish/blackish cloud of smoke comes of the exhaust, last week happen the same but this time the engine wont start, call the AA which told me that was high pressure pump without doing any tests.....Got home went on internet and found that is common fault on this cars, and follow some of the suggestion.
Change the diesel filter and it work out for 2 days the engine run perfect, no glow plug but 4days ago coming from work rev it a bit and the engine it’s gone completely dead.
I've a code reader AVTOP run it and came up with one code (P0100) which is the mass air flow meter (MAF), took it out cleaned and put it back, run the code scanner again and no codes came up, a bit doubtful about the code reader, unplug the EGR and the egr sensor and code reader pick up the codes, so code reader looks okay.
Check www.kobobooks.com%2Febook%2FTitle%2Fbook-4Djp5Lpsu...4" target="_blank">fuel system no air on the system no pipes blocked, undo the nut of the pipe that go from the common rail to the injector, spin the engine and diesel coming off.
No code came up for cams sensor but I change the sensor anyway, I've also change again the diesel filter to check if there were metal fillings that could have come from the injector pump, but nothing inside the filter.
Does the malfunction of EGR by itself can prevent the engine from start?
Does the malfunction of the turbo by itself prevent the engine from start?
Because the injectors on the common rail are controlled by electric/electronics, is there in component/modulo apart from the ECU, if so where?
I've remove the cables of the battery for about 3 hours to reset the ECU, I'm not sure whether it done or not, if not How to reset the ECU, and if by doing that do I have to reprogram the injectors?
Any suggestions out there will be more then welcome thx.
Joka Read more
checked no probs with it.
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Unless the suspension has been damaged the most likely cause of bias to one side is the tyres, I have even had new ones cause it, I would suggest swapping the front wheels over - if you haven't already done it.